Eagle

Height from ground to flare is meaningless, because tire size and even tire pressure affects the measurement. A better measurement is the axle/hub centerline to the bottom of the flare.

If all you want is to make the front level with the rear (dunno why you would do that, but it's your truck) then why are you even looking at a kit that also lifts the rear?

Correct.

They look great (if you like them), but the bolt circle is wrong so they won't fit without adapters. And that was my point. Adapters will push them outboard from the hubs, and then they won't tuck up inside the fenders without trimming sheet metal and flares.

No, we/they mean the old ones. The issue is backspacing. The factory rims from the XJ/MJ period are mostly 15x7 (the base, steel rims are 15x6), with 5-1/4" backspacing. This allows even 31x10.50 tires to tuck up inside the fenders when the suspension compresses. Most aftermarket rims have 4" to 4-1/2" backspacing, which does NOT allow the tires to tuck inside the bodywork. Those newer rims might work, but you'll need to verify the backspacing and the bolt circle.

Fuel pump should reach pressure and stop running within 5 to 10 seconds. You may need a fuel pump.

Very good point. The steering box should be the last thing you check, not the first.

That's too nice to mess it up. You can run 31x10.50s with NO lift, but it would look just about perfect on 30s (IMHO). Back to question number 1: the steering. It uses a GM Saginaw steering box. There's an over-center lash adjustment you can try playing with, but go gently or you'll trash the steering box. Remove the air cleaner so you can see the top of the steering box. It should look something like this: The cover is held on with three bolts. In the center of those is a threaded rod with a recessed hex socket in the end, and a locknut. That's the adjustment screw. To adjust, be sure the steering box (not the wheel, the box) is set at straight ahead. Hold the adjusting screw with al Allen key while you loosen the lock nut. Then VERY gently turn the adjusting screw clockwise -- screwing it down into the box. I like to do it with the steering wheel unlocked, so I can wiggle the input shaft while I adjust the screw. You want to take out "most" of any slop or lash, but you need just a little to prevent the steering box from binding up and wearing prematurely. Once you get most of the lash out, retighten the locknut, replace the air cleaner box, and take it for a drive. If the screw bottoms out and there's still slop, you need a steering box.

You do realize that the "seal" for the factory rear windows is a bead of sealant, right? The gasket is just trim, like on the new body style Cherokee windshields.

Cranking is "turning over." Please be more clear in trying to explain the problem. Does it crank but not fire, or not crank at all? How old is the CPS?

Makes sense. Oil pressure can be up to 60 psi -- cooling system is 13 or 15 psi, maximum.

All I usually see is their taillights ... after they blast by me at twice the speed of sound.

That's dedication for you. (Or fear of the First Sergeant.) I did a spell at Edgewood Arsenal. Marched in a couple of parades in Baltimore with the 1814 Color Guard. Shot a match at Fort Meade. I don't remember how I did, so I guess I must not have won.

Several people responded, but I don't see any indication that anyone understood what the question is.

You are building up an unusual amount of moisture inside the cab under conditions when it should be bone dry. Winter air doesn't hold moisture. When that started happening in my '88 Cherokee, I finally realized that the heater core was leaking.

Out of curiosity, do you still have the heater control valve in the coolant hoses under the hood? If so, have you verified that it's working? The HOs did away with that valve, and it might be something for you to think about.

I've always been partial to tall, slender blondes, myself.

No, they are not one-time-only. If they aren't damaged or badly rusted, reuse them all you want.

True, if you're only flipping the pins top-to-bottom. Any time I've taken the pins out of leaf springs I've been putting together bastard packs, so I open up the packs, scrape, wire brush and de-rust each leaf, paint, and then reassemble. I confess that it never occurred to me that anyone might NOT de-rust and paint the leaves when presented with the opportunity.

I have no idea what the opening post is asking about. What tab? Where? Are we asking about broken wires, or wires somewhere in the "brake" light circuit?

Just grab the round head of the centering pin (bolt) with ViseGrips. Be sure to put a BIG C-clamp or two on the spring near the pin and clamp it/them down tight to take the tension off the bolt as you unscrew the nut. Once the nut is off, release the C-clamp(s) slowly.

As far as I know, just Chine being different.

I think the taller roof in the rear was only found in China, on the Beijing Jeep version.

Some nutso stuff, but midway there's a sequence of what appears to be a basically stock XJ doing a bit of light off-roading

"Camping" =/= flat screen television Sorry, I guess I'm showing my age [again]