Eagle

Yes, I guess you would. I forgot about that, to be honest.

I replaced the CPS in my '88 MJ. It was fine until about May, after which it would run for three to five miles, then quit. If I let it sit at the side of the road for 30 to 45 minutes, it would fire right up and I could drive it home. Bad part. And mine was a factory Jeep part. It happens.

I noticed that working with the full-size photos of the two cut-away valve bodies. The circuit for the front brakes is straight through, with the slider in the middle. What's wrong with just drilling out the front orifice? Easy to do if you simply remove the slider. That way, you retain the brake warning function of the factory valve.

CPS getting heat-soaked.

I did a little playing in Paint. Here are both of them, for comparison:

Elsewhere on this forum I also posted a photo of an XJ proportioning valve sliced in half. The portion serving the front brakes is exactly the same for the XJ and the MJ. The difference is that the XJ unit has a proportioning function for the rear wheels, the MJ unit does not. The MJ handles rear brake proportioning with the height/load sensing valve above the rear axle. I also eliminated the height sensing valve in an MJ. In my '88, the height sensing valve exploded in a panic stop situation. No replacement available, so I just eliminated it. The rear brakes are a bit "touchy" under certain conditions but, most of the time, the overall braking is far better than it ever was with the height sensing valve in place. The reason, of course, is that it basically eliminates the rear brakes unless the truck is heavily loaded. Found my photo of the XJ proportioning valve:

I think it's easier to go from automatic to manual than the other way. If you're going to do it, though, don't bother with the AX-4. Do an AX-5. You don't have to use 5th gear, but it's there if you want it, and you might decide to change axle ratios down the road.

The factory had two different repair kits for this problem. Which to use depended on the degree of separation at the upper hinge. A long time ago I bought one of the kits for the less severe repair, but I haven't seen it for many years. My fuzzy recollection is that the repair piece is like a strap with a "hat" in the middle, such that it straddles the hinge and gets welded to the door post above and below the hinge.

I don't understand how those help at all.

Now THAT is really funny ...

If I were to buy a Roxor, the first thing I'd do is send to India for doors and a windshield from a Thar.

I think the parent vehicle is the Thar, which is road-legal in India (if you can find a road), but probably doesn't meet U.S. safety standards so can't be imported. http://www.mahindrathar.com/index.aspx#!thar-CRDe

Thanks for torturing me again. AFAIK there is only ONE of these that ever made it to the USA ... and I don't own it. WAAAAAH!

Mate, I'm now officially calling you out for spewing bull$#!&. I special ordered TWO 2000 XJs from the factory. I went over every option available. The only axles used for the front of 2000 and 2001 XJs were low-pinion Dana 30s, and for the rear axle the choices were Dana 35 (with ABS) or Chrysler 8.25 (w/o ABS). Jeep had long since stopped offering the Dana 44 as an optional, heavy duty axle by 2000 and 2001. Special order from the factory meant you could pick from what they offered (and some combinations weren't available), it didn't mean you could buy something that Jeep didn't offer and they'd run out and get one for your vehicle. There are only two options here: Either you're trolling us, or you need to do more homework before engaging the keyboard.

They were, but they were built under license in Venezuela, not built in the USA.

Fine. Believe whatever you want. Find the build sheet and tell us what option code was assigned to a Dana 60 axle.

I got trapped on mufflers. A couple of years ago I needed a muffler for my '01 XJ. Autozone had a Walker "Sound FX" muffler for 10 bucks cheaper than the OEM replacement. The Sound FX was listed as "OEM replacement" so I foolishly thought that meant "OEM replacement." Not so. It meant "OEM fit," but not "OEM sound." The Sound FX is a turbo-type muffler, and at highway speeds it's loud. Not ear-splitting but, as others have mentioned, it generates an annoying, low-pitch droning sound. Some people might like it -- I don't. If you want quiet, got the OEM replacement muffler.

The MJ frame rails are fairly thin steel, so you don't need (or want) a super high-power welder or you'll burn right through rather than welding good steel to what's left. With some practice, you could get the job done with a $100 flux-core, 120-volt wire welder from Harbor Freight Tools. Like this one: https://www.harborfreight.com/Flux-125-Welder-63582.html That said, you'll get much better welds with less difficulty with a MIG welder (gas shielding). I've seen some 120-volt MIG welders, but not recently. If you have a 240-volt outlet in your garage (or spare capacity in your breaker panel to add a dedicated 240-volt outlet), then this one would be a better choice: https://www.harborfreight.com/170-Amp-DC-240-Volt-MIGFlux-Cored-Welder-61888.html You can also do the job with a stick welder, and that would be cheaper for the machine. I don't know if others would agree, but I think stick welding is harder to learn. Part of it is knowing which electrodes (sticks) to buy -- there are MANY choices, and each is best suited for particular applications. To properly repair your frame, you'll need to remove the bed and gas tank for access. Good idea anyway -- the idea of welding next to 20 gallons of gasoline makes my hair stand on end. See if there's a technical school or community college near you that has a welding class you can sign up for.

Good plan, but that's not restoring the truck he's got, that's restoring the other truck.

The recommended lube chart at my Jeep dealer now shows 10W30 synthetic motor oil as the correct juice for the AX-15. I think I'd be more comfortable using one of the full-synthetic, sulpher-free gear lubes like Royal Purple.

Unless Windows Backup for Win 7 and newer has changed from earlier versions of Windows, I don't think Backup makes a mirror image of the drive.

No, they didn't order it with a Dana 60, because the factory never offered a Dana 60 as an option. The Dana 44 was the optional, heavy-duty axle. I'd say if YOU want a dana 60, buy it. Don't expect to flip it, because I doubt you'll find a buyer.

Inspect your brake LINES -- carefully. I have popped brake lines on both my '88 Cherokee and my '88 Comanche. And just over a year ago I lost front AND rear brakes on my 2000 Cherokee in a panic stop situation. It has less than 20,000 miles on the clock, but the brake lines rusted from the inside.

A "personal cloud" is nothing but an external backup with two redundant hard drives. Don, the answer to your question is that if your device is creating an image, rather than just a backup, yes it should restore everything, exactly where and how it was before the hard drive crashed.

Ouch! Learn to weld. Seriously. It's not so bad that it can't be saved, but you'll pay through the nose to have a body shop do it. You can buy a hobby-grade MIG welder and teach yourself to weld for a LOT less.