Eagle

It shouldn't lean it out. The oxygen sensor is what controls the mixture in closed loop mode. If that sees a lean condition, it tells the injectors to feed more gas. Several years ago, on a trail ride, one of the guys either broke his exhaust manifold, or lost a couple of manifold bolts. That cause an air leak that fooled the O2 sensor into thinking he was running lean, so it enrichened the mixture to the point that there as raw gas coming out of the cylinders and burning in the manifold. He limped off the trail and, by the time we got to the trailhead, it was getting dark and his exhaust manifold was glowing bright red.

Front or rear? Going straight, or turning? In front of wheel or behind?

If it has passed before, it should pass again. Drum brakes do work, but they require periodic adjustment because the self adjusters don't work all that well, and most people don't know how to make them adjust anyway. Step one: Remove the rear drums and see if there's any lining material left on the shoes. If so -- replace the drums, adjust the brakes, and retest.

Before you do anything -- where is it rubbing, and how much?

If that's an '87, what's with the coolant recovery bottle by the firewall at the top of the photo? Does your vehicle have a replacement radiator with a radiator cap?

Yes, you can. The standard turn signal blinker is load-sensitive. It's set to blink at the normal rate when all the turn signal bulbs are working. If one bulb burns out, the load changes and the module causes the signals to blink faster. That's intended to let you know a bulb is burned out ... but most people don't know that. The problem is that adding a trailer, with additional lights, also changes the load and affects the blink rate. So for trailer towing they use a heavy-duty, non-load-sensitive blinker module. It always flashes at the same rate, regardless of the load. That might be all you need to solve your issue.

It's not polite to gloat!

Finding a good, rust-free Comanche anywhere is going to be a pain. The newest MJs are now 26 years old.

For anyone else with a high idle problem on a Renix, there's another possible cause. The throttle cable from the gas peddle doesn't go direct to the throttle body, it goes to a mechanical bellcrank assebly that has a pivot located down on the driver's side frame rail, below the master cylinder. From there the bellcrank has a rod that extends up to move the throttle plate. That pivot mechanism can get dirty and rusty. I've found that period lubrication with PB Blaster cures my fast idle problems when they show up.

Every week, on Wednesday -- regular as a train schedule. Two weeks ago I lost power on Wednesday and it was out for two days. Last week the power went out on Wednesday but they got it fixed in one day. Got my fingers crossed on this one -- forcast was for up to 18 inches of heavy, wet snow, and that's what brings down trees ... and power lines.

So you're talking about your modified Charokee, not "the" Cherokee.

The Cherokee weighs 1000 pounds more than what? Curb weight for the 89 MJ ranged from a low of 2897 pounds for a 2WD shortbed to a high of 3130 for a 4WD longbed. (Source 1989 MJ Owners manual) Curb weight for an XJ was 3357 pounds (source Wikipedia -- weight not given in '94 FSM). I've seen other sources that said the Comanche curb weight was higher than the Cherokee.

3.07 gears are not suited to towing.

Make certain the guy at Autozone bench tests the new alternator before you leave the store with it. Autozone's Delco alternators seem to have about a 75% dead-on-arrival ratio -- and that applies even to their "top of the line," purportedly new units.

Front bumper is tweaked. Grille is falling out. Tailgate is bent. Wheel arches inside the bed are bashed up. That thing looks to me like a beater truck that just had a Earl Schieb paint job thrown on it.

Amen, brother! Consider that my profession used to call for doing roof inspections on tall buildings ... Man, the things we do to earn a paycheck.

I wasn't going to bring that up ...

Factory spec for oil pressure is 13 psi minimum at 750 RPM idle, and something like 35 to 75 psi above 1600 RPM. (Warm) What I've observed is that (with the exception of very high-miles engines) they usually idle at around 25 psi and run 50 to 55 psi at 60 to 65 MPH. That's with 10W30 oil. Heavier oil will result in higher pressures.

Pretty little airplane. What is it?

Thank you!

There was also a factory kit to delete the wires from the CPS connector through the harness to the ECU and install a new pair of wires that go directly through the firewall and to the ECU. Don't know if the kit is still available but it would be easy enough to make your own. It makes for a shorter run, which is supposed to transmit the signal better.

Yes. Place a piece of 1x3 or 2x4 lumber against the bottom edge, and tap gently on the bottom end of the piece of wood. The panel will slide up about a half inch and then pop off. Don't do it in cold weather.

Need photo.

Don't buy Rusty's for sure! Check more carefully. I had a fairly low-miles '01 Cherokee that was sagged much as you describe. I decided to fix it and get a touch of lift at the same time by taking another Cherokee leaf pack, cutting the eyes off the main leaves, and using them as AALs. Took the right side apart, set the leaves on the ground, had my new "AAL" in place, and as I was putting the other leaves back I dropped the #3 leaf on the gravel driveway ... and it snapped right in half. It obviously wasn't doing anything in there. Simple solution in my case -- I scrapped all the original leaves except the original mains, and used the entire leaf packs from the donor springs. Came out perfect. You may have a broken leaf.

The Chrysler 8.25 and the XJ/MJ Dana 44 are both approximately 1-inch longer than the dana 35. I have no idea about the AAM 830 -- I've never seen one, and don't recall ever hearing/seeing it discussed.