Eagle

Don't forget the gasket for that flange. I always use new, stainless steel bolts. Doesn't seem to help much, they still get pretty well trashed within a couple or three New England winters, but it lets me feel like I'm at least trying. IIRC, the two that go through the bracket need to be 1-1/2" long and the other two can be 1-1/4". (Unless it's 2" and 1-1/2")

I own two 2000 XJs, one early (built in October 1999), the other late (built April or May of 2000). The early one has the flange, the late one does not.

If the cat you took off is original, it has a 2-1/2" input, not 2-1/4". The factory system runs a 2-1/2" catalytic converter, and the pipe necks down to 2-1/4" between the converter and the muffler. That will make it difficult to weld the flange from your old cat onto the new one. Every replacement cat I've installed came from Summit Racing and came with the proper square flange as an integral part of the converter.

I think any height problems with conversion buckets is if you use the early XJ buckets with the tilt-a-whirl feature. That mechanism adds height to the seat.

Yes, but the difference has to do with the two latches at the outer corners. The 84-86 hoods didn't have those. I believe that's mostly a matter of drilling a couple of holes for attachment. Not certain, but I believe the basic hood is the same and could be adapted to work.

As noted, check the sockets. The XJ/MJ sockets are known to go bad, resulting in the turn signals trying to seek a ground through the parking light side of the circuit. Since you have things happening when you step on the brake peddle, start at the rear. Also check the point where the taillights ground to the body.

https://www.autozone.com/powertrain/clutch-hydraulic-hose?filterByKeyWord=clutch+hose&fromString=search&isIgnoreVehicle=false Don't even think about used parts for this. You'd be asking to get stranded with a blown hose.

Thanks, all. Don, I don't know why I never remember to check Team Cherokee. Thanks for the link -- if someone doesn't come up with some, I'll order them from Team Cherokee. In fact, I didn't know about the metal retainer, so today isn't a total loss -- I learned something.

We have no u-pull junkyards in Connecticut -- they were outlawed at least 20 years ago. That makes it tough when it come to miscellaneous small parts, because the yards just don't bother with them. I'm looking for four of the little white nylon thingies that go into the driver's and passenger's doors to retain the upper end of the "hockey stick" armrests. If some kind soul could grab me a few of those on an upcoming trip to a u-pull junkyard, I'd appreciate it. Naturally, I'll reimburse for cost + postage.

Twice, in a Dana 35 in my XJ. The first time, the Trac-Lok stopped working and we literally rebuilt it. A good friend was a retired service manager from the dealership where I had bought the XJ. We tore it down in his garage and stuck in a couple of replacement shims and clutch pads, reassembled, and I got another 50,000 miles or so out of it. When it stopped "locking" (I know -- I'm using the term loosely) the second time, I put in a complete rebuild kit. -- new clutches and new shims/spacers.

As others have commented in this thread, parts availability for the Renix system is drying up. Take what my colleague, Hornbrod, says with a small grain of salt -- he's a staunch advocate of the Chrysler HO platform. I don't have any "HO" vehicles, I have three Renix MJs, a Renix XJ, and two 2000 XJs. The 2000s have OBD-2, which is even beyond the HO diagnostics -- but the few times I've had to actually use the OBD-2 diagnostics, the text that was supposed to "explain" the code I was getting was less than helpful. The engine work, as I posted earlier, is going to be the same. The advantage to doing an HO stroker is simply the newer system. Is it worth it if you already have a functional Renix vehicle? Only you can decide. Speaking for myself only -- if I were replacing an engine on one of my Renix vehicles, whether I was going stock or stroker I would not even consider swapping out the entire wiring harness to get the Chrysler system. To me it's just not worth the labor and hassle. Among other things, with close to a half million miles among the several Renix Jeeps I own and have owned, I find them to be just as reliable as the newer ones, easy to work on, and they give better gas mileage. But -- if I came into possession of a nice HO Comanche would I change it to Renix? Heck, no! Each has its advantages and its disadvantages. I'm just too old to feel like swapping out a complete wiring harness when the one in the vehicle gets the job done just as well.

I like it, too. But what do you do about a license plate and light? The cops are strict about license plate lights around here.

It does NOT sound like the clutch packs are worn out. I've been there and done that. When the clutch packs wear out, it reverts to acting like an open diff. As such, if he jacks it up and blocks one wheel, the other wheel should turn freely. It sounds like his Trac-Lok is functioning but doesn't have friction modifier in the gear lube. In that situation, the clutches don't release.

You've been looking at my cutaway photo? That one had to be defective. Since the second line is screwed into a blanked-off port in the front distribution block, it would not have functioned as a bypass ... but since it was not drilled through, if it were a return line it also couldn't function as a return line. I haven't cut apart any others to see if they are likewise defective, but it's clear from the design that the intent is for the second line to serve as a bypass circuit to provide full pressure to the rear brakes if the fronts fail. The description in the FSM confirms that it's a bypass.

Is this what you intended to write, or did you mean you're NOT planning on spending a lot on the build? Building a stroker engine is going to be basically the same whether you do a Renix or an HO. You'll need the same stroker crankshaft, the same rods, and the same pistons. What you do to the head will be the same, whether it's a Renix head or an HO head. The basic question is, do you want to build the engine and drop it in, or do you want to undertake rewiring the engine compartment while the engine is out? You have an additional option that hasn't been discussed - rebuild a stock engine and put a different cam in it.

There is no "return" line in the rear brake circuit. The second line is am emergency bypass line. If that's rusted through, you probably had no brakes because you had no brake fluid.

Says the guy with "HO" in his screen name.

That wasn't one of the options presented.

Go with the stroker.

The Trac-Lok requires an additive in the diff lube to allow the clutches to release. It's called "Friction Modifier." If you changed the diff lube without adding a bottle of friction modifier, that would do it. I don't know if it's supposed to wear out, but my experience has been that it does, and once or twice over the life of a Trac-Lok unit I have added a fresh bottle of friction modifier to the diff. I only buy it from Jeep dealers. Auto parts chains sell something they claim is the same thing, but ... it doesn't work.

Why not? Got a photo?

That Fey universal is probably as close as you're going to get, but IMHO it's not very close. I keep wondering if it might be possible to somehow attach MJ bumper end caps to the Fey bumper. That would make it look a lot better. 54bobby, were you able to use the Fey brackets as they came out of the box, or did they require grinding to eliminate body interference?

If the noise was coming from the rear differential, I would start looking at the differential before thae transmission. However, since you just filled up with gas, it could also be water in the gas. A bad load of gas makes the engine sputter and stutter, and that makes the drive train alternate between being loaded and coasting. That might sound like the rear is making noise.

DG/WT is 12 volt power supply Black is ground DB/LG is fuel level sensor BR/YL is sensor ground Which means it'll run if you just splice the black and the DG/WT wires, and worry about the gas gauge back in the driveway

There are three styles. If you look carefully, the 84 thru 89 (or 90?) are different from the 90 (or 91?) thru 96.