Eagle

Yeah, but the gas mileage! To the Moon and back on one tank of gas! Beat THAT, TDI!

I love a story with a happy ending. Apparently the would-be perp died, either en route to the hospital or after he got there. So, no money wasted on a trial or on feeding and housing a low-life scumbag for years and years. Apparently on a number of "gun" forms the armchair experts are criticizing the woman's tactics. I saw nothing to criticize. She had the element of surprise, she took her shot (or shots) and quickly backed out of reach -- not that the perp was in any condition to want to go mano a mano with her at that point.

Works in Firefox.

There is no possible setting for an adjustable that works well for both unloaded driving and heavily loaded driving. That's why the factory used the height sensing valve rather than the same proportioning valve they used in the XJ. If you run with no proportioning, you get full braking to the rear at all times. That's what I do in the red '88 MJ (the one that had the height sensing valve explode in a panic stop). Most of the time, I'm happy with the braking even when running light. But ... I learned early after eliminating the valve to be careful to avoid panic situations. A few miles from my house, there's a 4-way stop sign. Leaving home, the approach is down a fairly steep incline. I approached it one day in the rain, touched the brakes -- and found myself sitting sideways in the road. With no load in the bed, the incline took even more weight off the rear wheels and left basically no contact between the tires and the pavement. By contrast, I've found from over a half million miles in XJs that the rear brakes never wear out. I go through two or three sets of front pads before needing to replace the rear shoes. That's because the proportioning valve pretty much "proportions" the brakes so the front does all the work. I suspect the YJ proportioning valve is the same. That would work fine in an MJ when unloaded, but it won't give you good braking when heavily loaded. The best solution if you eliminate the factory height sensing valve is an adjustable proportioning valve, and locating it where you have easy access to adjust it when putting a load in the bed.

I just use an open-end wrench. 28mm is 1.102". 1-1/8" = 1.125, so that will fit over a 28mm bar. A 1-1/16" wrench is 1.0625, so that won't fit over a 28mm but it will fit over a 26mm bar (1.024").

Do you understand what a differential is, and how it works? The inner axle shaft on the passenger side does NOT connect rigidly to the wheel on the driver's side. It goes through the differential -- which is not locked.

Yes ... and no. I assume you're referring to the inner axle shaft on the passenger side of the front axle. The central axle disconnect (CAD) basically works like a transmission synchronizer -- the slider is always engaged on one shaft, and the vacuum motor moves it over to engage or disengage the other shaft. But -- the front axle has an open differential, so even with the CAD engaged the front wheels won't be locked together. That said, your explanation could be a bit clearer -- there are no gears in the CAD, just two axle shafts, a sliding collar, and the vacuum motor. Let's see if this will come in:

That one should work, too. Dunno why, but I started with Auto Zone and I couldn't come up with anything but aftermarket senders for aftermarket temp gauges. So I jumped over to Advanced Auto.

No limitations. There are four diameters that were available, but they all have the same configuration and can be interchanged (subject to using the correct size bushings). Keep in mind that a larger front sway bar keeps the vehicle flatter, but it increases understeer in corners.

Group 58. Standard was 390 CCA, optional was 425 CCA.

Just the opposite. He has a temperature "sensor." He needs to replace it with a "switch" for use with the idiot light. #WT387 https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web/PartSearchCmd?storeId=10151&catalogId=10051&langId=-1&pageId=partTypeList&actionSrc=Form&searchTerm=temperature switch%2Fsender&vehicleIdSearch=8505

For 1986, Selec-Trac referred to an NP 228 or NP229 transfer case that used both a lever and a separate vacuum switch to engage 4WD. The NP207 was what was called Command-Trac. It's the predecessor to the NP 231 transfer case that was used from 1987 through the end of production in the XJ and MJ. No full-time position, only 2WD-High, Neutral (which wasn't a true neutral), 4WD-High, and 4WD-Low. Shifting was done by the lever to the left of the console, Please post a photo showing the shift bezel and lever(s) on your console.

This. From your opening post, it sounds like you have a temperature idiot light, not a "gauge." The light should be either on or off -- it should never glow dimly.

I took a ride in it last night. BIG improvement -- HUGE! Like the difference between a candle lantern and a Cree LED flashlight difference.

Of course, as long as you leave it in 2WD you can run mismatched ratios. Most folks doing that remove the front drive shaft just to ensure that nobody accidentally engages 4WD and grenades a transfer case.

The Custom was 1986 only. Don't remember for certain but I think it was the top trim level in 1986. The Dana 44 has a 10-bolt cover. https://www.extremeterrain.com/wrangler-jeep-axle-identification.html

Or drill out and install threadserts.

Definitely not. Too much mismatch. Because not all axles have the same size ring and pinion gears, there are combinations where the front doesn't match the rear perfectly -- at the second decimal place. In the XJ and MJ, for example, you'll actually find a 3.07 axle mated with a 3.08, and a 3.54 mated with a 3.55. Those are close enough to work. But 3.07 with 3.73? Nope!

Thanks. Off to Lowe's hardware department ...

Does anyone know what size the bolts are that hold the crossmember to the "frame"?

Only the upscale ones. Judging by the side bolsters, those are from a Laredo or Limited.

Front should be 17-1/2", same as the XJ. I don't think there has ever been a definitive measurement taken for the rear using the hub-to-flare method, but my informal measurements suggest that it should be somewhere around 21-1/2".

I'm fairly certain the specified resistance for the CPS is to be measured at normal operating temperature. That always bothered me, because how do you get it to normal operating temperature if the engine won't start and run?

Are you working from a wiring diagram, or are you guessing?

They're in. I haven't seen them in operation at night yet but, considering how blind it was before, I have to think it's an improvement.