Eagle

All the auto parts chains used to have a replacement socket that was a perfect fit for the XJ and MJ in the HELP! line. It was marked as fitting some Ford truck, IIRC, but I don't have a part number or better specifics on the year and model of vehicle it's marked as fitting.

That is all.

Get a switch panel from an XJ and use the slot for the rear defogger or driving lights as the kill switch. If you have an auto tranny, hard wire the tranny power-comfort switch to "Power" and use that switch.

I don't think you can do an SOA conversion and keep it to 5 inches. Most people seem to get 5-1/2 inches or more.

The fender is the same as the Cherokee XJ, so any fender for a Cherokee from 1984 through 1996 will fit. Good luck trying to find a bed. That's going to be a hunt.

From the 1990 FSM this time:

That sounds like the build date code, not the bearing size code. The boss with the bearing info isn't big enough to hold all those characters. The date code is in a flat, machined rectangle on the surface of the block. The bearing codes (if any) are on a raised boss, behind the distributor, near the oil filter adapter, that has a recessed, square-drive plug in it. If the boss doesn't have any letter codes, all your bearings and rings are standard. And the codes are the same for 1990 as they are for 1994, so probably good for all years.

Not if the crank journals aren't scored.

The speedometer is not part of the drivetrain. Did you also rewire your dashboard as part of the engine swap?

What year MJ is this for? If this is for the '87 in your signature, your speedo is mechanical, not electrical.

There's an assembly code stamped on the side of the block, near the distributor. Next to the distributor there's a boss with a recessed, square drive plug in it. If there are any non-standard rings or bearings needed, there will be one or more letters stamped on that boss. The following are from the 1994 FSM, but I think they should be the same for 1991: P = One or more rod bearings 0.010 undersize M = All crank bearings 0.010 undersize PM = All crank bearings and one or more rod bearings 0.010 undersize B = All cylinder bores 0.010 oversize C = All camshaft bearings 0.010 oversize

Didn't the XJs with the long console have a molded duct that runs inside the console to direct air to the outlet at the rear of the console? I'm going from vague memory -- my '88 XJ has the mini-console, so I can';t use that as an example.

Or turn down the ends of the 3/8" bolts and thread to the appropriate metric thread.

IMHO, for a short-term "fix" the bastard pack is the way to go.

I had a 31x10.50-15 under my shortbed.

I do not understand how, if the truck is stationary with the wheels on the ground and blocked so it can't move, you are rotating the front axle. Are you crawling underneath and putting a pipe wrench on the axle tube? Or are you referring to the front driveshaft?

The factory bumper and brackets have not been available for several years.

Don't think so. To provide 1.5 inches of lift, they would have to be 3 inches longer than stock MJ shackles.

Maybe some additional explanation will help. The location of the heat or A/C air outlets is controlled by vacuum-actuated flappers. The dash control doesn't move the doors directly, it controls a vacuum switch that then controls where the flappers are set by using engine vacuum to move the flappers. When there's a vacuum leak, the default position is to direct air up through the defrost outlets. The usual failure that causes this is the line from the vacuum resrvoir behind the front bumper, and it often fails where the vacuum line runs under the battery tray. But any significant vacuum leak can create the same problem so, since you're looking at busted vacuum lines, before you waste any time trying to diagnose the air flow issue, fix all the vacuum lines you can find and that very well may cure your problem.

Ideally you should extend the bump stops by the same 1-1/2 inch, but most people wo do a 2-inch budget boost run the stock shocks with no bump stop extension.

Visually, no. Put it in 2WD, jack up on front wheel, and see if you can rotate the tire manually. If the transfer case is in 2WD, the driveshaft can turn so you'll be able to spin the wheel. If it's in 4WD, the driveshaft can't run so you won't be able to spin the wheel.

What do you mean by "build it"? It should be easy to find an 8.8 with 4.10 gears and a limited slip differential. No re-gearing or "building" necessary. Just add a set of spring perches and a pair of wheel spacers (the 8.8 is narrower than the XJ/MJ axles) and bolt it in.

Short of leaving it stock, that sounds like a good choice.

A friend of mine did the driver's side floor in his MJ using a section cut out of one of my parts XJs.

We need more info. You said "rebuild," but you mentioned JB Weld on the block. Did you rebuild the original block, or did you build a junkyard engine? If you used a junkyard engine, what year is it from? If it's a '91 or newer, whcih flywheel did you use and whick crank position sensor did you use?