Phillip Gwin Posted August 16, 2020 Share Posted August 16, 2020 Sorry for hijack the thread for legal issues. Love your build. Makes me feel bad about mine and the lack of detail, just don't have the patience you do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Limeyjeeper Posted August 16, 2020 Author Share Posted August 16, 2020 3 hours ago, Phillip Gwin said: Sorry for hijack the thread for legal issues. Love your build. Makes me feel bad about mine and the lack of detail, just don't have the patience you do. It's cool and trust me my patience has been worn extremely thin on many occasions with this build!! Still fighting non firing on a couple of cylinders, pretty sure it is a bad PCM. Putting a replacement in tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Limeyjeeper Posted August 18, 2020 Author Share Posted August 18, 2020 So after a frustrating time trying to track down the LS engine issue (misfiring, popping, down some cylinders) I finally cracked the problem. It is possible with a GM LS engine to put the coil pack harnesses on the wrong way around. This causes the driver side bank to not fire on two cylinders. Rookie mistake by me. So for the next guy:- Drivers Side #1 Cylinder Purple wire #3 Cylinder Light Blue #5 Cylinder Dark green #7 Cylinder Red Passenger Side #2 Cylinder Red #4 Cylinder Dark Green #6 Cylinder Light Blue #8 Cylinder Purple Purring like a cat now.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted August 18, 2020 Share Posted August 18, 2020 see, that's an engineering error right there. that should not be possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Limeyjeeper Posted August 18, 2020 Author Share Posted August 18, 2020 43 minutes ago, Pete M said: see, that's an engineering error right there. that should not be possible. Yes they even couldn't be bothered to use different colored wires for each side!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Limeyjeeper Posted August 24, 2020 Author Share Posted August 24, 2020 Got HP Tuners working, now playing with the tune a bit. Getting ready to take her for a spin. Going to delete the heater valve it is really in the way. Got the steering aligned "redneck style" 2 bars, some bungees and a tape measure. Next up heater core leak, then I need to pull the NOS leaking NP242 transfer case. Slowly getting there. Going to take her for a safety next week. In Texas you don't need a windshield to pass a safety inspection so long as you drive there wearing goggles. Go figure. I really need to put some miles on her to get the PCM to start learning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Limeyjeeper Posted August 24, 2020 Author Share Posted August 24, 2020 Running pretty well now!! Engine running.mp4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thecodemonk Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 Woohoo! Glad to hear you got that figured out. You're on the home stretch now! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 another huge milestone! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Mistress Posted August 25, 2020 Share Posted August 25, 2020 Looking good ! Wiring is my weakness, glad you good with it and got sorted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kansashogan Posted August 25, 2020 Share Posted August 25, 2020 Very nice, congratulations sir Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Limeyjeeper Posted August 26, 2020 Author Share Posted August 26, 2020 Keyless ignition being installed. The kit is really excellent. I gutted the steering column interlock, key barrel and mechanism that pulls the ignition switch rod. Replaced the ignition switch with the push button. Fitted perfectly. Works with central locking so I only need one keyfob. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Limeyjeeper Posted August 30, 2020 Author Share Posted August 30, 2020 This Digital Guard Dawg keyless ignition kit is awesome. They aren't cheap but the Resto community swears by them for reliability. To install in a 91 harness you need to connect the following wires Both RED to Red on the DD Yellow to Purple Orange to Pink/BK Violet to Brown Dark Blue to Pink Ground the Black White/Tan Brake Light cold side to Brown on the DD Accessory Harness Dark Clue/Red Parking light feed out of the light switch to Gray on the DD Accessory Harness (Flashes park lights when arming and disarming As I have central locking. I used the Autoloc system I also wired the following Brown Unlock to White White Lock to Green Walk upto the vehicle automatically disengages the ignition shutdown press the key fob to open the doors. (Or you can manually set it using the key fob) Get in. Foot on the brake and press the start button. Simple as that. Lot of power going through these wires they need to be done right Double Sleeved Once it is all wrapped and in loom you won't see the labels. Don't want to make it too easy for the bad guys!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Limeyjeeper Posted September 1, 2020 Author Share Posted September 1, 2020 Another milestone. All the factory gauges are working. Just got to play with the Dakota Digital box to get the LS PCM to see the speed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Limeyjeeper Posted September 1, 2020 Author Share Posted September 1, 2020 So to get all the stock gauges working on a 91 Jeep LS Conversion using an NP231 or NP242 transfer case you need to do the following:- Speedometer - Simply connect the stock VSS signal, Pin to the White/Orange G7 wire going into the instrument cluster plug. The diagram below is looking from the back of the plug. How do I know. I thought it was the front and wired the plug wrong initially. You will also need to tap this wire into the Dakota Digital box (see below) Coolant Temperature You need to use GM Part no 12551708. This is a 3 pin sensor. Pin C is the pin you use to drive the Jeep Coolant temperature gauge. Pin A and B go to the LS PCM as it needs to be able to read Engine Coolant Temp. Pin A is Low ref, Pin B Sensor Signal. Connect pin C to the Violet/Yellow G20 wire going into the instrument cluster plug. Volt Meter - Nothing needed it reads the voltage from the instrument cluster fused ignition feed White/Black A9 Oil Pressure You can use the stock Jeep oil pressure sensor 56026782 with an adapter. I used a earls AT9919AUJERL adapter so it will fit the oil hole at the rear of the block. It is a M16 x 1.5 to 1/8 NPT. Available on Amazon. Tachometer - Surprisingly All I did was connect the LS PCM Tach output (Pin 10 on the RED Connector) to the Gray/Black A6 wire going into the instrument cluster plug. Works perfectly Fuel Gauge. I used the stock fuel sender unit and a stock Jeep Fuel pump. No issues. The final piece of the puzzle is telling the GM PCM what speed the vehicle is going. This is used for Cruise Control a couple of other things. As I mentioned earlier in this thread I used the Dakota Digital SGI-100BT. It has a bluetooth interface which makes programming very easy. You set Speed (SPD) to App 2 which is L-L (low speed signal in, low speed signal out. You connect the output from the Jeep VSS Orange/Tan to Input on the DD box and OUT 1 goes to Pin 21 VSS High Signal on the Red Connector of the LS PCM. The DD box converts the Jeep VSS Square wave output to the LS PCM required AC Sine wave input. Sorry for all the painful detail but it might help somebody doing an LS swap do a little less head scratching!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Limeyjeeper Posted September 1, 2020 Author Share Posted September 1, 2020 I also took her out for a proper test drive tonight. This sucker is fast........................ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 1, 2020 Share Posted September 1, 2020 12 minutes ago, Limeyjeeper said: I also took her out for a proper test drive tonight. This sucker is fast........................ I might be in your neck of the woods for a short time in a week or two Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Limeyjeeper Posted September 1, 2020 Author Share Posted September 1, 2020 If you have time feel free to stop by, you would be most welcome!1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Limeyjeeper Posted September 6, 2020 Author Share Posted September 6, 2020 Got the heater box vacuum controls all working. Also got the AC electrically working. (Haven't charged it yet) You have to do a bit of rewiring to bypass the Jeep pressure switch and thermistor. On the LS the pressure switch talks to the PCM. ON the Jeep it is just inline with the AC Request circuit. On the 91 cut the green white wire coming out of the plug on the back of the heater control (Far right hand pin) and splice it into the same color wire going to the bulkhead connector. On the engine side of the bulkhead you are looking for the light green wire. That needs to be connected to Pin 17 RED on the PCM. That tells the PCM to turn on the AC. Pin 18 should be connected to the compressor side of the AC Relay. IT tells the PCM that the AC clutch is engaged. You will need a Jeep Receiver/Drier and use a Hi/Lo Pressure switch Part No. 509485. This connects to the PCM as follows:- Pin A to Pin 57 Red on PCM Low reference IAT Pin B to Pin 45 Blue on PCM 5 Volt reference Pin C Pin 14 RED on PCM Signal You will need to connect Pin 43 Red is the feed to the AC Relay. this will pull the pin to Ground and fire the AC Relay. This Pin does NOT supply 12v to the AC Relay just like the Jeep PCM. So connect to the old Dark Blue/Orange wire that went to Pin 34 on the Jeep PCM. to Pin 43 Red on the LS PCM. The plug can be found at EFI Connections. Delphi Metri-Pack 150.2 Part No 100-01164. These guys are awesome for GM connectors. Also managed to get the trim back on the windows. Not a fun job. You have to put the trim on before you put the window and seals in or it is impossible to get them to fit. Also figured out that I had put the window weather-stripping on wrong. Turned out pretty decent. Next up testing the Cruise Control. Figuring out why the park brake light won't go out. Pull the dash wiring and wrapping it. Then Windshield. Also ordered some rubber leaf spring bushings. The Poly ones I have make way too much noise. Got a small engine oil leak to deal with. Then I need to pull the transfer case as that is leaking too. Been driving around the block, the power really makes the Comanche so easy to drive. You never really need 1st gear. Still trying to get the speed into the PCM from the Dakota box to match the speedo which is accurate to GPS. Still about 30% off. Need to get that if I want Cruise Control that works properly. Might have a bad VSS sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
70barracuda Posted September 6, 2020 Share Posted September 6, 2020 I agree with not needing first gear. I still use it but it's so fast to second Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Limeyjeeper Posted September 9, 2020 Author Share Posted September 9, 2020 The one thing about this project is how much I have learned about these magnificent vehicles. This is the latest lesson:- I was having trouble getting the VSS to send the correct pulses to the GM PCM. Couldn't understand it. The Speedo was working ok, I thought. Today I took her out and got her up to around 50 mph and the Speedo started behaving wildly, it was all over the place. So I came back to my garage and pulled the VSS. I noticed some markings on the VSS 26-31, 32-38 and 39 -45. I also noticed a small dot on the transfer case housing. After a little research I learned that a Jeep VSS has to be indexed differently depending on how many teeth are on the speedo gear. I am running 31" tires and a 3.55 rear end which needs a speedo gear with 32 teeth (Rugged Ridge Part No 18760.13). So you have to move the VSS until the markings corresponding to your gear no is lined up with the marking on the transfer case. See yellow circles on the picture below. Viola, the speedo works and the GM PCM is getting the right pulse rate. I am sure many of you are going "I knew that". But after working on this drivetrain for over 18 years I still learn something new almost everyday!! I am using the 3 pin Hall effect VSS. Might be different for the 2 pin, but I doubt it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Limeyjeeper Posted September 20, 2020 Author Share Posted September 20, 2020 Windshield is in. Along with the rear window. Inspection on Monday. Still battling a VSS issue. Thought I had it cracked. PCM getting good signal but speedo going haywire. Might need a diode to stop feedback. Works fine when VSS connected to speedo without Dakota Digital box. Started to paint the interior trim Jeep Agate to match the center console. Using Colorbond #163 perfect match. Carpet is next after I pull the dash and wrap the harness. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiNi Beast Posted September 21, 2020 Share Posted September 21, 2020 i wanna ride .. love that hood. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Limeyjeeper Posted October 15, 2020 Author Share Posted October 15, 2020 Been driving Comanche dawn a lot. Got nearly 500 miles on the engine. Had some issues. Got the AC working. I have a pretty small compressor which I think is struggling to overcome the heater core. So it looks like I will need to get the flow valve working. Thought about changing it to an electrical one with a dash switch. We will see. Gradually get the LS fuel maps right. Got the front DS hitting the exhaust. Need to clock the transfer case back to the XJ not TJ position. This should stop the front DS hitting. Also should get the rear DS angle down from 10 degrees which borderline bad. I have some driveline vibration. It has to come out as it is leaking badly even though it is a NOS case. Just need to pull it and reseal the casing. All the interior is painted. Door panels fixed up. Speedo working perfectly, just need to get the cruise working. Need to pull a 4000 pulse output from the Dakota box to feed the cruise control. Gonna have to figure out something with wind noise. I think Safellite messed up the surround install. It is lifting when driving and makes a real racket. Should have the interior wrapped up in the next month. She does look good in the sun. Lots of small stuff still to do. Wrap harnesses including pulling dash. Install trim and carpet Alignment Cruise Control Move oil temp pickup for more accurate reading. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiNi Beast Posted October 15, 2020 Share Posted October 15, 2020 break the engine in how you plan to drive it. I'm still digging that hood. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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