Jump to content

89 MJ - Refreshing a Beater


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 253
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Went on another little shopping spree. Ready to do 2ga battery cables, picked up Autopal E code H4 conversion lights, and Hella 100/80w bulbs. I'll likely make my own headlight harness. I really want to add a second relay box under the hood to tidy up all the accessory wiring that will go in shortly. I'll need to add at least 5 relays: high and low beam headlights, fog lights, low and high speed fans, let alone any more auxiliary lighting if I find a roll bar.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wheels and tires are on. Adjusted the trackbar finally. I thought about buying new premade battery cables, but figured I'd make my own for a lot less, so I'm running 2ga cable.

 

I plan on having quite a few circuits that need relays, at least 5 for the low beam, high beam, fogs, low and high fans. I don't want all those relays hanging out on the fenders, so I snagged the fuse box from a Mercury Mountaineer we have at the shop. It's PLENTY of room to expand into. There are 13 relay slots. Can't beat free.

 

Now I need to relocate the coolant overflow bottle. Any ideas? fbabf8112b4e6f57164dce674f8e583a.jpg266f388e5d8499106fbe8db7c96f2188.jpgef99697954be3eda221534c145057c26.jpg05d020f0ff29d539a9d8fa04264c28a5.jpg

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A few more things done.

Heater hoses, radiator hoses, trans cooler lines finished. Filled with coolant and burped.

Most of today was spent with wiring. I finished the battery cables, all 2 AWG including a new run to the new fuse box and a mega fuse for the alternator. I have the relays in the new box wired to be ignition switched and I'll just have to run network cable to my switch panel for relay grounds.

I got my fans wired and the Trinity V2 fan controller wired as well. I'll have fun dialing it in. Currently, I have the center fan wired for low operation, then the other two as a medium, then on high, they all 3 run.

Guys, she moved under her own power today for the first time since being torn down 4 years ago! Kinda tricky still since I haven't finished the brakes. I still have to run new lines from the WJ master to the brake block and replace the front hoses. I used a 95 Dakota rear brake hose to extend the rear.

2e188601a44af65e7f7ba328262c15c2.jpg
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another day of work. Starting to see a little light at the end of the tunnel.

I made new brake lines to run from the WJ master cylinder to the distribution block. It was a lot easier than I expected. Plus, I managed to remember to put the nuts on before I flared the ends!

Then I swapped the stock front brake hose for new extended ones from a 90s Chevy C1500. After pressure bleeding, I have brakes again! Still need to adjust the rear drums a bit, I think.

I trimmed the carpet a bit more, installed the center console, ran the cable for my fan controller, swapped the 2 door XJ driver's bucket seat onto the MJ bucket track. It didn't want to fold, but the cable wasn't broken, turns out the corner zip tie was missing. It folds now. That's my kind of fix.

I got a decent bit of the blue interior parts painted grey with SEM ColorCoat.

Next step is headliner and dyeing the rear carpet panel. 5a60f5f5149320ee8c3c07c0307717d2.jpg1ddd19577392782e8177456e6a695e48.jpg28c3348a864fcf55f961c4d5104d38f3.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Headlight relay harness is done. All wired into my auxiliary fuse box. For now, the headlight setup is Autopal Ecodes, with Hella 100/80w H4 bulbs.


Painted the front bumper, grille and headlight surrounds satin black. Still want a 10 slot black grille. I like the chrome/ black look. Getting close to registering and hitting the road. bcc85012c6b6d344d7e88914a46e51f5.jpg0a6fb08f698eee1257bf297126abb76c.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks y'all. With the help of a coworker, we ran the new exhaust last evening. I put the stock converter back on, then a stock muffler off of a Dodge Charger SRT8 we had lying around. I just wanted quiet for once. It's got a little burble at idle, but not much louder than stock.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

More problems, after driving a few miles around town, the front brakes began dragging and smoking. I've got new calipers to throw on the front, hoping it doesn't need a new WJ master cylinder.

My thermostat housing gasket started leaking. There's a roaring noise from the rear end, sounds like wheel bearings. I pulled the LR axle shaft, the outer bearing didn't seem chewed up or anything, but the wheel has some play. Don't plan on spending any money on the D35, but not sure if the 27 spline 8.25 in the donor XJ is worth going SOA for.

I did receive new 4x6 speakers for the rear and managed to get the power door lock and window wiring working, haven't swapped over the regulators yet.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rewired the door lock relays to be ground triggered and added a parking light relay so that the lights can flash with the keyless entry.

The remote start/ keyless entry is installed now. It has a pretty good range.

Installed NVX 4x6 speakers in the rear. Have some cheapos to toss in the front until I figure out a component setup. 21b2166e00b6e34b76dd515b30a01d29.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

The interior is slowly coming together. Waiting on headliner fabric. It was a real pain fitting all the HO XJ dash to MJ rear adapter harness, all the power window and door lock wiring, and everything else behind the driver's kick panel with the parking brake right there.

It's in need of some cleaning yet. The passenger window motor is slow, but I'll deal with that when I put new window seals in.

I hopefully have all the parts now to piece together a mashup of the original condenser and evaporator core with the 94-96 R134a compressor, accumulator and lines. d7995082a8fa135c0a7cd2c2e34b86e4.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, scguy said:

The passenger window motor is slow

Did you lube the snake for the regulator? 

 

Also I have been reading this for a while. Well done. I feel your pain on all the wiring behind the D-side kick panel. These just so much going on over there you could easily get lost in that mess.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did lube it a bit. The window tracks were very dry, so I used my favorite product, Lubricone. It's made by Kano Labs, makers of Aerokroil, the best penetrating oil I've ever used.

That stuff is magic. I can't tell you how many people have brought their cars saying they needed window motors and a few squirts of Lubricone had them working fine. Seriously, any sliding part aside from metal on metal I would highly recommend it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

58 minutes ago, eaglescout526 said:

Did you lube the snake for the regulator? 

 

Also I have been reading this for a while. Well done. I feel your pain on all the wiring behind the D-side kick panel. These just so much going on over there you could easily get lost in that mess.

 

I have new power window regulators waiting to swap in as my OEM units are getting slower and slower. That said, I notice on the replacement units the snake has felt intertwined with the metal snake coil. Is it ok to lube that with grease or some other kind of oil lube? Seems like it was designed NOT to be lubed as the felt would break down I would think. I also saw a post on one of the FB Comanche/Cherokee pages where a guy added a 19v step-up converter in-line to his power windows and they zipped up and down super fast. The converter was only @$20 on Amazon. Anybody familiar with this mod?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, WahooSteeler said:

Is it ok to lube that with grease or some other kind of oil lube?

I know on the manual windows it is a rubber tube. I would imagine that the felt is similar to an electrical motor that has self lubricating pads inside to keep the shaft and other parts lubricated. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share


×
×
  • Create New...