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89 MJ - Refreshing a Beater


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did you find a solution for the over flow tank?

I ended up buying a Dorman overflow tank (603-001) and mounting it more or less in front of the blower motor.

 

It was a new small enough tank for $7, so it's a win.

 

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The AC works!!!

It's quite the system, 94 XJ compressor, both lines to the 93 XJ expansion valve are from a 96, the filter drier, condenser, and lines from the compressor to condenser and condenser to drier are new and for a 94 XJ.

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The interior is pretty much together. I redid the headliner. It came out decent, not perfect at all but, so much better. I need to get the passenger seat cleaned up and installed and the interior will be done other than a few minor screw caps, etc.

I put the old blue visors back in for now till I can get good gray ones. You can also see the Euramtec B pillar lights, and my new footwell courtesy lights.

The AC is working well, finally got the vents working, there was some blockage in the hard vacuum line on the firewall.

Guys, it's actually getting close. Feels weird to see the list of things shrink.

Gotta figure out these axle bearings yet, but she's doing good otherwise. 34552f30028d0c79c0a5507038dc7340.jpg88ffba4ac11407956850dae8a7f7bfbc.jpg6e5ff20d408d8d18be0823d50b141095.jpga0c90342d983669c62f726db65107f08.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've been driving the MJ for a while now and have noticed occasionally the front brakes will get tight and drag. I had replaced the calipers and brake hoses, lubed the pins and slides and still, the same thing. Well, finally, I took the brake booster vacuum line off and they freed up immediately. My WJ booster is bad. Ordered a brand new one, hopefully that'll take care of it. 4fbadb455b01284f7527e3f8a39d287e.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

New brake booster and the brakes are still hanging after about 5 miles. They let up when I take the vacuum line off of the booster. Also running really hot, despite fresh coolant, new thermostat, water pump, 3 row radiator. Getting tired of stuff keeping me from driving.

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I don't either, but I was just theorizing.  That's weird to have that kind of sticking from there.

 

Did you try re-burping the coolant and maybe replacing the radiator cap?  I've had a bad radiator cap give me issues before.  (though, in the end, the last time I had to fix the 4.0 cooling system was when the radiator blew up and I just replaced every component and hose in the cooling system and the whole thing ran great from then on).

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  • 2 months later...

So far, the overheating seems to have been a faulty thermostat combined with brakes dragging.

The brakes dragging were caused by the WJ booster not being spaced out enough, so that was a cheap fix.

I installed a Mopar thermostat, so far so good.

The alternator isn't charging up to par, so I ordered a new 117A alt off a 98+ XJ.

The AC quit on me, from what I can figure, the expansion valve is completely stuck closed, bad enough that when I charged it from the low side, the high side had 0 psi.

So I've ordered an all new compressor kit. I'll flush the evaporator again when I have the expansion valve off. The condenser is new, that should be new everything.

Everytime I fix something, I find something else, the RH power window motor is now weak, but once I get the AC working again, I shouldn't need to roll it down much.

I'll probably get new window wipes here soon so that I can go ahead and get the windows tinted.

As much as I look, I can't seem to find the passenger bucket seat. Don't know how an entire seat disappears, but I just need the brackets. Guess I'll have to buy brackets too.

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Looks great as always! 

 

On your A/C, did you replace your evaporator and/or heater core? Going to dig in to my A/C and likely replace everything but those 2 items next spring and curious what problems you have had and what you have done. I ask about those 2 items because, obviously, I prefer not to have to remove my dash. 

 

On your RH pwr window motor, it is most likely due to the voltage drop known on the pass window during Renix years. I replaced my motor in the spring and it was only marginally better, and that's even with the worm gear on my old unit being dirty and rusty due to the protective sheath missing. There is a write-up on Cherokeeforum about adding in relays as one solution, and Minuit has good info on switching over to a 91+ harness as another approach. I'd also be curious if the new alternator helps. Again, just like you, I've been considering replacing mine. What's strange is that when I first start up, the pass window will go down reasonably quick but after driving for 15-30 mins they are muuuch slower. The voltage gauge at startup is around 14 and later in the 11-12 range, hence my thinking my alt is tired. I've got a couple more grounds to do from Cruiser's tips but the main ones are done. 

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2 hours ago, scguy said:

I replaced the heater core before I installed the interior.

The body harness in the truck is from a 93 XJ. It has the relays. It's full HO swapped.

 

If I had thought for 2 seconds I would have remembered you had it stripped out and converted to HO, as I followed your progress closely. Duh! Sorry dude, I'll just stick to :popcorn:

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