Minuit

I cannot make that decision for you. The options I laid out are more or less equivalent, except for the Korean ones being worse in every way. It's up to your personal preference. Prices are listed here - CC members with an account older than 3 months will receive a $15.00 discount on any order including a radio. If you're wanting to go older, AMC radios are priced on a case-by-case basis. https://radio-emporium.com/radios

In a super-base model Sportruck, either no radio or an AM-only manually tuned radio. It could also be optioned with one of the Korean Automatic Radio ones with the brown buttons. I don't recommend these. I don't sell them. I only work on them if the customer insists. Better to go for an RX-170/AR-7750 ('88) or RX-171/AR-7751 ('91) if you like the original look, or an AR-7752/3 or RX-172/3 if you'd like a clock. For everyone else: Waiting List Update My medical problems have slowed me down by about three weeks. I've also been started on a new medication related to the above medical problem that might cause unpredictable side effects. As a result of setbacks which are entirely my fault, the waiting list is now back up to 104 customers. But, I've managed to finish a brand new, much less cramped lab setup in the mean time. This will dramatically improve my productivity, and my capabilities because I now have room to slot this into my permanent test setup: This mammoth device is a radio-frequency signal generator - primary purpose (for my uses, anyway) being testing and alignment of radio transmitters and receivers. It takes up about three square feet of bench real estate, weighs 40 lbs, and is fresh out of the calibration lab. The main reason I bought this is due to an influx of inquiries about older, manually tuned radios - alignment of the manual tuners in these radios is a major part of properly servicing them.

That goes to the fuel pressure regulator on my 91. I think a '96 had a returnless system, so that'd probably explain it being capped.

As someone who's personally seen Walker, it's just as beautiful in real life as on CC.

At the rate we're going, I think @MiNi Beastmight overtake me in... about 3 days or so?

If you ever make it back up to TN, we can work on that

Whatever it would be, not a damn full size truck! And definitely not a lifted one! Yesterday, mostly to get out of the house, I agreed to help a friend work on his '91 Chevy 1500 4x4 in exchange for his help running some errands. It's the same age as my MJ with about 75,000 more miles. I believe it has a 2" lift on it, but that's enough to make almost everything on it a pain in the @$$. To get to much of anything in that engine bay comfortably, you've got to climb up on the bumper and sit on the fender. Lifting something over the side of the bed? Forget about it. It's got the 4.3L V6 with a 5-speed transmission, so pretty much the most basic 4x4 fullsize you could buy from GM at the time. You'd think for how much space there is in that engine bay, it would be a little easier to work on. Nope - somehow, even with all the space in the world to work with, they still managed to make a simple power steering hose a huge pain in the @$$ to reach. The equivalent hose in an MJ (with an engine bay that's half the size but still has a lot more stuff in it) is no big deal to replace as long as the fitting doesn't seize up. And don't even get me started on the terrible plastic interior that's completely falling apart in every way imaginable. I didn't even know a dashboard could fall apart in so many ways. Hey, at least the floors aren't rusted in it. Working on everyone else's crap makes me forget how good I have it working on Jeeps. Especially GM - things that should be simple always end up being a PITA on every GM vehicle I've ever worked on. And that's quite a few at this point.

Yep, 15173

I see. No shame in getting the other radio. These things are quite durable - sitting in the rain may not even be a death sentence as long as the corrosion is cleaned properly. At least it wasn't turned on when it got wet. Just don't spend much money for it. I personally can convert almost all of these Jeep radios. What you see on my website are DIY kits. Unfortunately, there are a only a handful of radio models that have "DIY friendly" auxiliary inputs that are within the reach of your average Jeeper without much electronics experience, and kits to do just that are what you see on the site. It's my official position that all of those tape adapters are awful. They're so awful and annoying to use that they are one of the reasons I got into this stuff in the first place.

To turn it off, turn the knob a little farther. The volume knob is also the power switch on that model. It should click. The odd radio sound is likely a problem in the digital tuning circuit. The RX-135 that I put in my '89 developed that issue and I have meant to get to the bottom of it, but haven't had the chance. The cassette deck is probably due for a new belt and some maintenance at this point. If the azimuth or tape speed are off, it'll sound even better after that's taken care of. If the belt breaks while a tape is running, the tape will get stuck in the radio. Don't try to pry it out. I will not allow you to think for even a second that asking me radio questions is in any way bothering me.

SEM Palomino is the closest to the '87 Tan fabrics in my opinion. (on the right - the left is the '86 Honey, which is SEM Camel)

Actually yes. Since the last update, I have stripped the interior, cut almost all of the rust out of it, and am part of the way through preparing it to receive the new floor on the driver side. As of a few weeks ago, it still runs and the engine still makes oil pressure, so the oil pump rebuild was good. I was most of the way through making a deal on a complete new drivetrain - new engine from an '87 XJ Laredo, external slave AX-15, NP231, and non-CAD D30, but it fell through just before it was scheduled to happen. I have acquired a full set of tan plaid interior fabrics and have found the correct paint color for the plastics. The final plan is to make this truck either black or blue with a tan bucket seat interior. Install a refreshed (stock performance-wise; the goal is everyday reliability) Renix 4.0 (which I've already decided will be AMC Blue with silver highlights) and a 4WD conversion with an external slave transmission. Probably will re-gear it to 3.55 at that point too. Not planning on a lift, and probably will be keeping the 235-75-15 tire size, probably with the "rally" style wheels as I already have a set of those that just need a paint job. The goal is a truck that doesn't actively destroy nearby property values while remaining useful for my projected every-day use, which means a lot of highway miles with an occasional unimproved road and occasional light towing. Since April, all of my automotive projects have taken the way-back seat. This will all happen when I feel like making it happen.

First it's the wall of NOS, then it's the two walls of NOS, then it's the whole room of NOS, and then the whole house. Next up: find the guy who paid $1500 for that NOS dash, beat him up and steal it, and stick an NOS radio in it with a pair of NOS speakers for some tunes in the room of NOS.

More info from FB: Nobody asked me what I thought, but considering the expense of plastic injection molding, I wouldn't be surprised if these things were expensive. If they fit and look correct next to the genuine article, I don't care. I hope this opens up the market for MJ tail lights and brings the price of the originals down to "reasonable" - let's be real here, as someone who's pretty much done purchasing Comanches, I'm all for the values of these trucks going up, but a good pair of tail lights being worth 25% of the value of the truck they're attached to is a little ridiculous. Maybe this'll encourage the people who have dozens of tail lights sitting around collecting dust to get them into people's hands while they're still worth something. I really hope they get these right. "Indistinguishable from NOS" is the hope, but I'd settle for "fits in the hole and looks perfect from 10 feet" If this goes well, I hope they decide to tackle some other desirable parts. I really hope they do well. If these are any good, this is plugging the single biggest hole in the MJ spare parts market, which is undeniably a good thing for the hobby. The "MJ" floor pans they sell (they're really just XJ floor pans, and I don't know if they're the ones having them made) are the best on the market. Maybe they could tackle making a true reproduction of the MJ's wacky floor structure? I'd spend good money for that. Maybe rockers that actually fit or cab corner skins? Bed sides? The rust state people would lose their minds!

If $3 doesn't cut it, how about $4? Cash in hand. Today. Right now.

Wait, what? How am I just now hearing about this?

Damn! It's been just over 8 years for me. So I had just turned 16 when I signed up. Good to know there's a semi-permanent record out there of how much of an idiot I was in high school. Wouldn't change it for anything. Best forum ever.

If you don't mind me asking, what did you end up with for your door gap along the top of the door frame? On both of my trucks, I've had problems getting that gap to look nice while also properly compressing the door seal - getting it to properly compress the seal makes the top of the door sink in too far AND makes the rest of the door compress the seal so much that the door becomes very hard to close. I figure if anyone spent the time to get it right, it'd be you. If only I could get a factory fresh MJ to take measurements and reference pics from... The XJ Limited style seat covers are my all time favorite seat design of any vehicle ever. I'm sure it'll look great. As someone who's taken apart more of these AMC seats than I can remember, I try to leave stuff in its factory condition, but I've got my limits - I just drilled that stupid roll pin hole through the other side of the tilt knob.

But the real question: is it actually any better than the dirty, rotten, good for nothing, horrible, useless, bargain bin, dumpster trash, bad even by 1940s Soviet re-arsenaled Mosin Nagant standards remanufactured alternators that a$$holes like Remy and Cardone crap out by the truckload these days?

I know that feeling and I hate salt too, but that floor rust is probably down to water leakage more than salt. Even in the wet, humid swamp that some people know as the Southeast, our floors rust out. My '89 is as clean as can be everywhere except the floors, thanks to a long ignored water leak under the carpet.

I'm not very familiar with FSJs, especially the older ones. They're not really my thing I guess. But being a '65, I would expect there to be some amount of rust no matter what. I'm looking at this from the perspective of "yeah, that looks like more truck than rust. As long as the frame isn't completely gone, that's probably as good as you can reasonably expect" And being as old school body-on-frame as it gets, I'd guess that any structural rust repair would probably be easier on this than a Comanche. No way I'd spend $2500 unless the frame was solid and it moved under its own power well enough to take a quick drive around the block at the very least. It doesn't look like that's the case from where I'm sitting. I'd probably be in on it at the $1200 mark give or take a couple hundred. Drivetrain wise, I know I can be a bit of a purist but these things came with GM engines and transmissions straight from the factory. A fuel injected GM V8 would be just the modern update it needs to be a useful vehicle. It's my understanding that even factory V8 FSJs are slow as hell without much parts availability, but maybe I'm just thinking about the smog era AMC 360s here. Maybe the older GM engined ones are better? Still think you should buy it. A mint flavored '65 FSJ with a modern powertrain would be a nice ride.

Probably not something you'd have to worry about with a decent shop. A lot of the discount chain windshield installers will slap a new windshield in without proper prep regardless of whether there's rust in the windshield frame area. A good shop should at least tell you if you have rust in your windshield frame before just throwing one in with a huge glob of urethane and not saying anything.

The proper name for it is the "door check" The 97+ versions are an upgrade.