Minuit

The simple answer is "anything" but I think you're probably looking for something better than that. First of all, you should be commended for taking the issue seriously and recognizing the importance of fixing it promptly, because THIS IS WHY THE FLOORS ON THESE TRUCKS RUST. To properly address the leaks, the interior will have to be mostly stripped. Baby powder will reveal leak paths. Sprinkle it along the floorboards to reveal which of the possible leak points are leaking on your truck. It's probably all of them. It's my understanding that the vent window gaskets were available at one point, but no longer are. They leaked when new - a number of original owners have commented that their vent windows leaked from day one. The official "fix" from Jeep was to replace them with the fixed vent windows. The problem lies in the design of the window frame and seal. You can experiment with coins between the latch and the window frame - some people have luck with that, but for some, no amount of money is enough to stop them from leaking. I've seen it suggested to put silicone paste on the seals where water gets in. That will probably work, but will have to be re-applied every so often. Just because the windshield is new does not mean it is good. A number of members have had issues with windshield leaks even after having it replaced. Once the adhesive cures, you'll want to test it to make sure it does not leak. The firewall is where most of the water comes in from. There are five places that water leaks, going from driver side to passenger side: Wire harness bulkhead connector - thank AMC for using a connector with absolutely no built in seal. The factory waterproofing method appears to have been packing the connector with dielectric grease. Unless you want to replace the entire bulkhead connector with something that's designed with a seal, that's probably the best you can do. You may want to consider putting some silicone paste or RTV on the shoulder where the "fusebox side" of the bulkhead connector sits against the firewall. Don't forget to put some sealant on the threads for the fusebox screws, as they go through the firewall too. HVAC Seals (4 of them - heater/AC pipes, fresh air intake, evaporator drain, and blower motor) - These were all thick foam gaskets that have probably turned to dust by now. You'll have to make them yourself. These are such a big problem and such a pain in the @$$ to make for most people that I am seriously considering designing these gaskets and having them cut professionally. To do it right, a sheet of foam will cost roughly $75 and you'll have only a couple of chances to get the cut of the gasket right. To be brutally honest, these gaskets are above the average DIYer's pay grade. The gaskets for the 97+ HVAC box are still available, but they won't fit the older HVAC box. If any of these gaskets except the fresh air intake leak, the water will run down the firewall below the carpet into the passenger footwell. The fresh air intake gasket will drip water on top of the carpet on the passenger side, making this the only common leak to be visible without removing the carpet. I should note that blocked evaporator drains as well as blocked cowl drains (under the windshield wiper mechanism) will also cause a leak in this location. As for materials, I don't know what they were made from originally. They feel like foam rubber, but I'm not a foam guy. Thickness of the three on the firewall is roughly 1", but you may want to use a thicker material and allow it to compress. The fresh air intake gasket is the thickest of the bunch at around 1.5", but this one doesn't necessarily have to be a foam gasket - a properly formed piece of sheet metal would be OK for this. Antenna Grommet - You'd think this wouldn't be as big of a deal as it is, but this is actually a MAJOR leak point in every MJ I've personally worked on. Water runs down the antenna cable straight into the cab. The grommets are different between power and fixed antennas. The power antenna version is more robust, and is still available new in the form of Crown Automotive's aftermarket power antenna. The fixed antenna version can probably be made by carefully taking the antenna apart and replacing it with a generic grommet of the correct hole diameter. I don't have the measurements you'd need to hand right now.

In case anyone has any doubts, do not even consider paying the prices being asked for these radios. I would say that the seller is lying in the title of these ads, but I have to assume they aren't that stupid and it's a simple misunderstanding. The first radio is in very rough shape button-wise and there is no proof of it working. Putting aside the fact that the dishonest title would make me avoid it at any price. It came in 1988 Jeeps of all varieties. The second radio is missing the display cover. It has probably been dropped. Not to mention that the model is specific to '84 and '85 XJs, has a number of major faults that were solved with a circuit board redesign, and isn't in all that good of shape to begin with. Once again, no proof of function, which is a requirement at this price. Both have XJ/MJ brackets.

Any. 1999-2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Some minor trimming (to the control arm) will be required for it to fit.

Almost everything in the beginning of that article is wrong. Cool build, though.

I don't agree, but this subject is a complete waste of time anyway.

Do you want six eggs, or half a dozen? In an ideal world, the OP extensively leak tests his truck before worrying about carpet or sound deadening, his truck doesn't leak, and he never has to worry about water on the floors ever again. If he doesn't leak test his truck and fix the leaks that do exist, he's negligent and his floors will rust and his truck will smell musty again no matter what he does. Even if the leaks are fixed, a Jeep's nature is to leak, so it very well could happen again. If he uses jute padding, water leaks under the carpet, gets absorbed into the padding, and some amount of water stays against the floor because water is probably coming in faster than it can evaporate. Truck will start smelling musty because there's a huge wet sponge under the carpet. If he uses closed cell foam (preferably with some MLV on top of it), water leaks under the carpet, gets trapped between the floor and the foam, and some amount of water stays against the floor because water is probably coming in faster than it can evaporate. Truck might take a little longer to smell musty, because even though there might not be a wet sponge So yeah, fix the leaks. Once water gets into the cab, any difference in the materials used is pretty much academic. In the event the carpet needs to be removed, the foam can probably be reused, but if the jute has ever been wet, it's probably not worth reusing. I think no matter what carpet underlayment gets used, the OP really should consider lining everything below the glass with mass loaded vinyl. That will make an even bigger impact in the road noise level.

You gotta keep removing parts until you can see the firewall. It's not THAT bad though. I have some practice, but I can have an MJ dash out in an hour if I don't spend most of that time looking for tools. The HVAC box is a major pain in the @$$ to get out. You also will need to make up new foam gaskets for the firewall.

Time for a new heater core.

Buy it.

Understand that treating the cab with vibration dampers and other treatments like that will do next to nothing to keep wind noise away. Wind noise is created by gaps in the cab's "bubble", and to a lesser extent by turbulence caused by mirrors, door handles, and the general shape of the truck. Fix the wind noise by fixing the gaps. It will be difficult to reduce wind noise much below the amount your truck had when it was new. All cars have some amount of wind noise, but it'll be up to you to decide how much is too much. I'm of the opinion that the larger weatherstripping you can get is a band-aid on an axe wound and does not solve the real problem, which is usually some form of "the door doesn't fit in the door hole anymore" - some work might be required to the door hinges if your doors sag. You might have to bend the door frame back into shape if there's a gap along the top. As far as water goes, you want no absorbent materials on the floor. As you know, the main cause of floor rust is water leaks into the interior. When treating your truck, assume it'll happen again. Do everything you can to prevent it from happening, but if water gets in, you want your floor to be treated with things that don't absorb the water and hold it against the steel. Your new carpet will probably come with Jute padding. Throw it in the garbage and use closed cell foam for a carpet underlayment. The adhesive on vibration damping materials can lift and trap moisture behind it. The cheaper, the worse the adhesive usually is. I would suggest limiting your Dynamat/whatever applications to places where water can't pool. That basically means everywhere but where your feet go is OK. I'd also advise caution when sticking Dynamat to the vertical skin of the door. I'll need to re-skin my driver side door on my 91 because the factory sound deadening material delaminated and trapped some water against the sheet metal, eventually rusting it out.

How quiet do you want it? How many days are you willing to spend cutting, measuring, and trimming pieces of material to fit? There's only so much you can do with stick-on vibration damper. Also, how clean are your floorboards?

Probably Ford Rangers, or another similar small truck. The only reason I am part of the Jeep community is that it's what my grandparents bought new in October of 1991. They were in the market for a small truck, and the Jeep dealer is what was open, and a stripped down automatic '91 Sportruck with A/C is what they bought. Once grand-dad died, grandmother drove the truck as her every day vehicle. Grandmother had a heart attack in 2002, and the truck was passed down to my parents at that time. The original fuel pump quit in 2003, so it was parked until I revived it in 2012. In 2016 I took leave of my senses and bought another one because the '91 resembled a reliable, functional vehicle a little bit too much to be called a project. If the Comanche didn't exist, I would probably have some other small domestic pickup. Assuming all of the same major story beats happened the same way, nothing else really would change. Generally speaking, I don't form sentimental attachments to objects. My vehicles are the one exception I allow.

If it makes you feel better, your truck started rusting from the inside out the day after it left the factory regardless of whether it was exposed to salt or not. My '89 has been in the South its entire life. I have my doubts that it was ever driven in any significant winter. It is the most remarkably rust-free 31 year old vehicle I have ever seen... everywhere you'd expect salt to accumulate. All of the factory undercoating is still there. The factory paint is almost all still on the axles. I can take out pretty much any bolt with a standard hand ratchet. Its driver side floor pan is completely gone as is half of the transmission tunnel, thanks to a combination of a water leak and a failed attempt to fix the rust that actually helped it spread faster. To understand the way these trucks rust, you have to understand the way they are built. A Comanche is no more or less prone to rust by salt than any other old truck. HOWEVER - they are severely deficient in interior waterproofing, and thanks to the unibody design that incorporates a lot of sandwiched sheet metal panels, combined with highly absorbent factory carpet underlayment, once water gets into the interior, it will not go away. The floor pans are the first place everyone tells you to check for rust, and for good reason. The design of the truck allows water to leak into the interior and rust the floor pan out without you ever knowing it happened until your foot goes through the floor one day. And don't think you're going to get out of it by sanding some rust off and spraying some dollar store spray paint on top of it. A comprehensive application of a Fluid Film style product to the underside of the truck is probably about the best you can do to keep the rust due to salt away, but you're probably 34 years late to stop the inside-out rust due to interior water leaks.

I would strongly suggest Fluid Film or similar over a paint-on coating such as Chassis Saver. It has been my overwhelming experience that opaque painted-on coatings trap rust and allow it to spread invisibly. Fluid Film (or any of the other lanolin wax based products out there - it's all sheep wax) is clear (allows you to see the condition of what's underneath the coating without removing it), does not allow rust to spread invisibly, and can be removed if desired. I do not suggest anyone apply POR-15, Ziebart, or any other paint-type undercoating to anything that has not been completely stripped to clean, bare metal.

There's almost as many clock variations out there as radio variations. One of these days we might have a "what [insert CC member] knows about clocks" article. From personal experience, the LCD clock with the bulb that faces up is awful. Very difficult to read. This is legitimately the best picture I could get of it, and yes the bulb works. The one with the bulb directly behind the display might be better, but I don't have one of those. The '87 VFD clock with "Quartz" printed on the front has a very bright, sharp display. Very nice to look at, and very easy to read. The '91 clock is not quite as nice visually as the '87 clock. For me, this type of display looks best when the digits are sharp and skinny rather than the blurry look this one seems to have on purpose, but it is very readable even in direct sunlight. Of course, since this clock is one of the unique '91 model year features, I really have to have it. I should point out that the Metri-Pack 150 series connectors used by all of the clocks from 87 onward are still readily available for those so inclined. None of these clocks have given me any trouble reliability wise - they're all pretty simply constructed. I have no information on timekeeping accuracy over time. They're all fine, I'm sure.

The clock was eliminated for the 1992 model year. Starting in 92, the clock was part of the radio. 91s have a unique connector and clock. Metri-Pack 150-series 8-pin unsealed. The clock is a green VFD. 87-90 (possibly also '86) clocks are interchangeable, and there were two different types of displays offered. '87s have a vacuum fluorescent display clock that looks very nice and matches the radio for that year. Later models used a backlit LCD clock that's almost impossible to read in any kind of sunlight and has an ugly display. The connector is an 8-pin unsealed Metri-Pack 150, but not the same as the 91 clock. There may be some cross-over with which year got which clock. They will both plug in and work. 84-86 (possibly just to '85) clocks are different again. I am not too familiar with them, but the connectors are different and the clock themselves may also be different. Every MJ I've seen has the connector for the clock, whether it originally had the clock or not. Not sure if '92s have the wiring for the clock.

My 91's primary purpose these days appears to be occupying space in my mind, mostly in the form of me wishing I had a protected place to park it. My 89... is completely useless right now.

I think at this point we'd all take a re-do on 2020.

You're a much better friend than I. Someone did that to me, I'd turn around and have them call me once they'd actually thought about what they were doing.

The previous two have been triggered by severe physical activity, lack of sleep, or a combination thereof. This one? I can't think of nothin'.

I can't say I share the same perspective, but your thoughts and prayers are appreciated nonetheless. Yep.

Welp, woke up this morning with a headache, bit tongue, all of my muscles sore, and a new lump on my head that wasn't there last night. On one hand, getting mad doesn't solve anything. But on the other....

See, this is why I haven't actually so much as struck an arc on my truck yet - I spend way too much time being indecisive. I am aware that weld-through primer has poor adhesion, hence my attitude of "use it only where it's absolutely needed, use real primer everywhere else" but I'm still undecided as to whether it's better than just leaving the mating area bare.

So I see you've read the same articles I have. It seems like FCA's objection to weld-thru primer is concern about weld contamination, based on some of the reading I've done. Right now I'm not sure of a better option though. The rust jacking between flanges is a severe problem on my truck, and I'd really like for it to not happen again. I'm not a body guy though. My plan as of right now is weld-thru primer on the flanges, 2K epoxy primer+ body color paint anywhere I can reach that isn't a weld area (including the underside of the frame braces), and once it's all done a coat of Fluid Film everywhere I can get to.

I really like what you're doing here. I can definitely see the reluctance to avoid lap joints - sandwiched panels are a big part of what makes this such a pain in the @$$ to repair. If you have to make a lap joint (For example, where the sheet metal floor pan fits over the uniframe rail flange), what is your plan for coating the mating surfaces? I plan to do an "OEM style" repair on my 89, and that's my biggest sticking point.