TNCave

Here we go:

For some reason I can't get my photos to load. I'll try again later. Cory

Well, I'm pretty long overdue for an update. Once I started using the winch and working this thing in the woods, I was having problems with overheating. I decided to make it simple and replace the radiator with a later model, so I did an "open" radiator swap. The whole thing was really easy and I did it on the cheap. I purchased a new radiator for a '92 from Rock Auto. They have a ton of radiator options, and I went with the H-D replacement. It's a cheapo aluminum and plastic radiator, but it was $90 and it performs beautifully. The radiator swap was very straightforward and without drama. I did eliminate the heater control valve and installed adapters in the heater hoses to maintain the correct direction of flow. I installed a universal overflow tank where the old plastic bottle used to be. Luckily I had this laying around from a previous project. My auxiliary fan was previously wired to come on with the ignition switch, by the previous owner. I installed a rocker switch in the dash and rewired it through the fan relay. So far, this setup has been awesome. It seems to stay at 210F. I never seem to need the auxiliary fan under normal driving conditions, but I use it when in the woods, climbing hills, and winching. I haul a lot of firewood and this truck is awesome. I've been cutting a mountainside property that was recently logged. I can drive to the prospective firewood, wherever it is, then winch tree trunks up the mountain to my truck. It couldn't be any better. As you can see, I still haven't installed my fender flares. They are sitting in the shop awaiting me to take an hour one day and install them. I want to note that my field truck for work is a 1999 Toyota Tacoma TRD 4x4 Ext. Cab. I have driven the Toyota 140,000 miles and through some pretty decent trails. Even with the axle locker in the Toyota, the Comanche is far superior off-road for my needs. The wheelbase is shorter, the ground clearance better, approach/departure angles are better, and the turning radius on the Toyota is atrocious. Of course the Toyota is a stock machine and my Comanche has 2 inches of lift, but both carry 31" tires and I've been very surprised by how much more I prefer the Comanche.

Well it's been a mixed few weeks with project Comancheap...there was an incident. This is my busiest time of the year for work so I've mostly been ordering parts and making plans. Parts have been piling up nicely in my shop and I did get a new set of shoes installed: Kenda Klever M/T's. So far I really like them, $600 tax and all for 31x10.50's. Two weekends ago I pulled the truck out of my shop to work on something else as I didn't have much time. I worked for a couple of hours and heard a weird bang outside. I looked out and Comancheap was gone. Another look...the truck had rolled down my drive, across my yard, across my patio, down a hill, across the road, through a ditch, through my garden fence, breaking two 8" cedar posts at the ground, and finally came to rest in my garden. My truck is banged up, garden fence busted, patio roof on the ground, etc. Well that will ruin your day. On the up side, the truck was 8" from hitting my house, but didn't and my 4-year old son was in the barn with me and not in the path of the truck. Comancheap is a 5-speed and the parking brake cables have been cut for unknown reasons. It must have jumped out of gear while sitting. I'm in the hills and the only flat ground on my 20 acres is literally my concrete pad in the barn/shop. When I returned to the shop, the new cables were on top of the parts pile mocking me. Seriously. Anyway, the truck didn't suffer too badly, a few new dings, busted windshield, and my rusty bumper is now really disintegrating. I've already replaced the windshield and ordered a cheapo Roxolid Armor winch bumper. Last weekend I had some time and figured I'd better start working on this thing so I can drive it more. For the record, the newly balanced Kenda tires took care of all of my vibrations and seemingly the death wobble, but everything still feels a bit loose. I installed the brake cables first of course, followed by the upper and lower control arms and a steering damper. Nothing too complicated, but I thought I'd throw up some notes. I used '99 WJ LCA's and it worked out great. They are beefy and boxed and I can now turn full lock without rubbing. The UCA's are Chinese replacements and seem a bit flimsier than original, but that may just be 25 years of crust making the originals seem heavier. For the record, everything came from Rock Auto. The LCA's were super easy to cut and install. The big end steel bushing insert needed to be cut flush and the small end needed about 1/8" cut off each side. A vice and reciprocating saw and it was easy-peasy. I left the tires on and replaced the control arms one at a time. The driver's side was simple remove and replace. The passenger side required some manipulation of the axle to make everything line up. I used a heavy duty ratchet strap to pull the axle from the top or bottom depending on which arm I was installing. I've included a photo of the axle being pulled forward from the bottom. Enjoy the pics.

Only one was a short box and it was not the nicer of the two. I'm afraid I didn't pay much attention to the bed, but I don't recall it being wrecked or noticeably rusty. I did pull the tailgate and it was fine.

Thanks and I'll give it a good look.

Well, today I learned the derivation of the term "death wobble." I've actually driven my MJ very little as I've been attempting to get it straightened out before driving it very much. Previously, it always had a vibration at 47-52 MPH. It was sometimes harsh, but seemed live-able for a woods truck. Today the front end was shaking so bad that I was certain something had broken in the front end. Oh yeah, and I really thought I might die. Nothing was broken, at least not any more than before. I don't have anyone here at the moment to turn the wheel while I check for play, but I did discover a bad u-joint on the passenger side axle. The death wobble has moved to the top of my list for Project Comancheap. Hopefully I can fix it without blindly replacing every component of the steering and suspension in the front. On the plus side, I have a 16 year old daughter who is anxious to learn about auto mechanics and we now have a vehicle with seemingly infinite learning opportunities. If only my wallet shared the same expanse of possibilities.

Thanks. The patch panel is riveted. I realize that being a unibody/uniframe construction vehicle that welding would be much preferred, but honestly my truck is a bit of a clunker anyway. I did hit both sides with some rusoleum on top and undercoating on the bottom. Hopefully this will help slow the rust processes. Sticking with the El Cheapo theme, most of the parts I used I already had laying around. The panels are cut from a thick aluminum sign that I had lying around. The insulation is leftover from a home insulation project. I paid $7.50 for the floor mat at the Nashville Pull-a-Part.

Well I had a productive weekend with my newly titled Project Comancheap. I hope no one else has laid claim to this title. I changed the title of this thread and I'll do my best to keep it updated. My truck was infested with rodents and I decided it was time for them to go. I successfully trapped mice inside the truck, including in the closed glove box, Friday night. On Saturday, I began pulling the interior out. I also fixed the pillar lights, installed a junkyard wiper motor, and a proper drivers side tail light to replace the Ford tail light that was in there. I pulled back the carpet and found a nice big rust hole. Please don't judge the repair/conceal too harshly. This is only a woods truck after all. I wanted the carpet out as I couldn't take the smell of manure, urea, and mouse poo anymore. I got lucky and scored a decent vinyl mat from a Comanche in the junkyard. Sadly, it did tear a bit on the drivers side while I was installing it, but it's still far better than the disgusting and stinky carpet. the hardest part of the whole project was removing the sound deadening material from the used mat. That stuff is a challenge.

Thanks. That aluminized stuff you used looks great. I have a roll of the household type that is basically bubble wrap with metallic outer layers. Maybe I'll throw some of that in there to replace the factory stuff. Thanks for responding and adding the pics of your project.

OK, I've got my old cow manure coated carpet pulled and I'm fixing the rust. I have a pretty good Junkyard vinyl mat from a '90 Comanche ready to go back in. Should I remove the sound deadening material from the backside? It seems that this stuff holds moisture and is the primary cause of our floorboard rust in these trucks. Any experiences or advice would be welcomed. Thanks.

Thanks Eagle, that is definitely my plan.

I'm hoping to maintain the stock turning radius.

Is that true? The only thing that needs to be cut is the steel insert? Pete, in your first photo, is that before on right and after on left? Thanks.

That's a great tip. It looks like the local pull-a-part wants over $20 each for them. It looks like it's Dorman part # 520320. The price listed is $32.79, so if shipping isn't too much than that might be my best option. I still want to hear opinions about the integrity of the control arm after it is cut to fit the MJ bracket. Thanks