Minuit

As far as I remember reading (cue someone 15 seconds later to tell me I'm wrong here)... the 12.7:1 ratio as found in the ZJ is as fast as the factory Saginaw box ratios ever got.

I assume this is an RX-170 through RX-173 we're talking about. Remove the bracket and top cover, and bend this metal tab outward torwards the switch it's supposed to press on. The loading mechanism should now chill out.

Damn, the pics even look like they jumped straight out of 1986 too! Shame I can tell through the $#!&ty pics that the paintjob is crap, and he even owns up to it in the ad. Looks good from a distance (or if, like the seller's camera, your eyes' lenses have a fingerprint on them) though. Truck had potential before he had it painted. Grille is upside down. Shame about the drivetrain. I like the black/tan color combo. Note the non-factory steering stabilizer. I wonder if it has or at one point had death wobble. That's normally the only reason they get replaced unless the owner is obsessive. This may actually be the first genuine Selec-Trac MJ I've seen. Unless there's a secret under there. Even looks like the correct non-disconnect front axle.

Definitely a repaint. Badges are high on the fender. Do I spy some overspray on the leaf springs? Pictures could be a hell of a lot better. Typical Fey rear bumper. I wonder what the tow hitch situation is like. Front bumper twisted upwards. Interior is in "alright, I guess" condition. They could've at least cleaned the greasy handprints off the seat. C'mon guys. I would be very curious as to how the mirrors were installed. I'm seeing some "extra wires" under the hood, and that's never a sign of anything good. It's fine, I guess. Not really causing any emotions in me. Definitely not the worst I've seen, but that could be because the pics are all blurry.

Words on my absent absences Still looking good. Staring spells are still completely gone. The medication no longer makes my stomach hurt, and the tremor might be getting better too, hard to say. It might just be all in my head, considering I never had a perfectly steady hand to begin with. I have a blood test scheduled for next week, and if that looks good I'm clear to start working out and being active again (cautiously, considering exercise triggered the May episode). Good, because I'm not even gonna say what this lockdown has done to my fitness level. Also, I used to get migraines. I haven't had one since being put on the current med! I'm now of the opinion that the previous medication was doing absolutely nothing the whole time... at best. The staring spells were never worse than when I was at my highest dose of the previous meds. At the starting dose, they were mostly fine too. Since quitting that medication and moving to another one, they've gone down to literally nothing. It sucks to waste time like that, but it is a part of life when your disease is not fully understood and the treatment procedure is "make change -> wait six weeks -> repeat". Independence day is currently April 2.

Damn Pete, you get OME parts when you shake the junkyard tree? I don't have Raynaud's, but I do have mild asthma - so I guess it's kinda the same thing, just respiratory instead of circulatory?

For $30, you did OK. The RX-135 has a somewhat fancy and complicated tape mechanism, so getting it back depends on "how stuck" the tape is. Often, the belt just breaks in use and prevents the motorized ejection from being able to work with everything else being OK. Take a look and pop off the top cover.

I know for a fact that after a good junkyard day I was BEAT - and the habit of frequently junkyarding helped me lose quite a bit of weight. I'd usually rack up 4 or 5 miles worth of walking on a "productive" day - and it always seemed like it was on a hot, sunny day. So yeah, I'd call it exercise Work smart, not hard - use leverage or machinery to move heavy stuff. If you absolutely HAVE to pick up something by yourself, watch your lifting geometry. Back straight and in line with the center of the load. Lift with the legs, blah blah blah. Even for routine stuff like tool bags. Little damage is cumulative. I'm 24 and haven't @#$%ed my back up yet, so take that for what it's worth.

The seats themselves are exactly the same seats that came in the two door XJ Cherokee from 1984 through the end of the 1994 model year. The four door seats are similar, but don't flip forward for access to the back of the cab. The brackets to bolt them to the floor are probably what tripped you up. Those are Comanche only thanks to some differences in the floor pans. The seats are modular and come apart fairly easy. The "sitting part" can be removed from the floor bracket/slider assembly after removing the bottom cushion (the actual difference between the Cherokee and Comanche bucket seats is the floor bracket/slider assembly). The sliders are then riveted to the floor brackets. @krustyballer16 makes the brackets you would need to adapt a Cherokee slider assembly to the Comanche floor pan if you can't find an original. You'd have to remove the old floor brackets and attach the new ones to the Cherokee seat slider mechanism. Alternatively, you're in the best place to find someone selling the genuine article. More info on seat varieties: The 1984-1994 seats came in two general varieties that look like this: or this: With plenty of variety in colors and fabrics throughout the year, but the frames are exactly the same underneath, so the cushions and covers can be swapped around. You can make a regular bucket seat into the fancy version with the side bolsters by switching the cushions and covers. The passenger and driver side cushions are interchangeable, so you can swap out a collapsed driver side cushion for a good passenger side. The only difference is a loop that holds the seat belt buckle in place, but you can either ignore it or switch the seat covers to match. Two door/Comanche seat frames are entirely different from four door seat frames. You cannot convert a four door frame to be able to flip forward, but you can put the four door fabric and foam on a two door frame, and cut a slit in the fabric for the lever to flip forward.

Don't think that I'm recommending that people leave a 30 year old piece of plastic in their cooling system. 30 year old plastic pieces are time bombs and they need to die before they strand you. Also keep in mind that I'm a bit of an A/C junkie - I'm willing to trade 4 extra hose connections in an easy to reach area for extra A/C efficiency. @Manche757 If there is a blockage in the heater core (and thus low flow of coolant from one side to the other), the input hose will be significantly warmer than the output hose, especially with no load on the heating system. Do this test with the mode set to "heat" but with the temperature control set most of the way (not all of the way) to the cool side. This is to make sure that coolant is flowing through the core (or at least trying to), but isn't being cooled down by the air blowing over it. There are quite a few redundant passages in the heater core, so I'd be a little surprised if they were plugged enough to present a serious restriction to the coolant flow, but it's a possibility. I think this is probably the right time to start putting some numbers to your problem. If you can get a thermometer and stick it up the vents and see what it says, that would help us. "I have 95 degrees at the center vent at operating temperature on fan speed two" is much more informative than "my heat is lukewarm" but for what it's worth, I'd say to manage your expectations as far as vent temperature goes. The heater core in the MJ is fairly small and the air does not spend a whole lot of time in it especially on a high fan speed. Don't expect the air temp at the vents to match the coolant temp. I went through the FSM quickly to see if I could find an acceptable spec for vent temperatures and came up short, but if there was a spec I would expect 140 to be within that spec, especially on a very cold day. In my mind, 140 is roughly where "good heat" starts, and I personally wouldn't call 140 "lukewarm" either, so there may very well be something else going on here. Like I said, it'd be best if you could collect your own measurements of the vent temps and report back. Fun fact: setting the climate control to "MAX A/C" might help warm the interior up faster. That will pull in air from inside the truck rather than outside. I would expect this to start making a difference when it's below freezing outside. The A/C won't kick on if the evaporator is below about 34 degrees.

I would love to if I didn't have other customers to attend to. It wouldn't be fair to them to skip so many places on the list. That clutch based tuner shaft coupling was used right up until the 80s. Even the very last manual tuning AMC radios have the same issue. The clutch is to prevent someone from ruining the (very finely aligned) tuner section by turning the dial past the maximum. It'll wear out especially quickly if someone does that. Of course, age will ruin anything too. Of course, just having a button for next station and having the electrons take care of the rest while having the tuned-in station read out to you on a sexy VFD works way, way better. I'm actually working on an '83 CJ AM-FM radio right now with a tuner section that looks fairly similar to what you have there, mechanically anyway.

This thing's definitely a repaint, and I'm not going to go looking for my 1986 brochure but I don't remember that color being factory. The badge positions don't look too bad, but a handful of things just don't look right. I'll call the light blue/Garnet interior combo "fashion forward". It all depends on the rust situation, but even unrusty at 3k this thing is a bit rough around the edges. There's also the fact that it contains either 0 or 1 desirable drivetrain components, depending on if there's a D35 or an AMC 20 lurking beneath. Interior ain't half bad other than the driver seat (which will be difficult to find a replacement for) and the missing headliner. Brushed aluminum dash bezel enthusiasts, here's your truck. I hate to burst any bubbles (nah, just kidding) but I think the bumper has a bit of yeehaw to it. It looks twisted a little bit left to right. It's not bad, but it doesn't look perfect to me either. Also LOL at the Trump sign stuffed behind the seats. I'll let the crowd decide if that's a plus or a minus. Overall, there's some good and some bad on this truck. If it's not rusty and you're willing to deal with the 86 drivetrain, it wouldn't be the worst thing in the world.

Replacing the whole floor pan stamping might be a bit extreme, but I'd pay $215 for the chance to cut a chunk out of a NOS one. Beware of those "parts overstock" type places. Almost none of them actually have the parts, but they'll do everything they can to make it look like they do, including listing a price and giving an option to add it to a cart. Your local dealership or one of our friendly CC members would be able to get you just as much, probably more. Just know that these trucks are getting to the age where the supply of NOS parts on the open market is being picked down to nearly nothing, so manage your expectations. I did some radio work for a gentleman who built multiple very, very nice Jeeps practically out of NOS parts, and even he says most of the NOS stuff is gone.

Who got it?

Don't forget that 75W-90 gear oil is equivalent to a 10ishW-40ish motor oil in viscosity. That's not really a fair comparison, but just putting it out there. To add some more hearsay and conjecture onto the pile, my AX-15 shifted considerably better with 10W-30 conventional than with the gear oil of unknown weight I drained out of it. I think the "use 10W-30 motor oil in the AX-15" thing is much more about syncro corrosion than shift effort or anything else - and 10W-30 just happens to be what is normally used in the 4.0L engine, so you could use your engine oil in the transmission.

The link in his post is a good read if I do say so myself We've been over this a few times, but I'll continue to defend the heater control valve for optimum A/C. Because I tried it both ways on my truck and I saw a measurable difference with my eyes. That difference was mostly 3-5, but sometimes as much as 7 degrees Fahrenheit at the vents! And no, my blend door isn't stuck partially open. That's the first thing I thought too, but it hits its hard stops on both sides. In motion, bypassing the heater core (which is all the heater control valve is - a selectable heater core bypass) dropped my vent temps from the low to mid 40s down into the high 30s on two consecutive 85 degree days with summer in TN humidity. Just because there's a plenum in the heater box doesn't mean the scalding hot coolant doesn't heat the ducting in the heater box. Not only that, but the heater core is right next to the A/C evaporator, separated by a thin plastic divider. That makes enough of a difference to matter. Jeep installed that control valve for twelve model years and completely redesigned it at least once in that time. They had a reason for including it. The air passes through the A/C evaporator first before going through anything else, even the mode doors. Once that's done, that air is as cold as it's ever going to be. Passing right next to the heat soaked plastic around the heater core isn't going to help. I'm a guy from swamp-@$$ Tennessee. Not only does it get hot, but that hot comes with a lot of wet too. Colder A/C is a hell of a lot more important to me than slightly less warm heat. In fact, I went back and looked at historical weather data for the two days I performed this test, June 3 and 4 of 2019. Not only was it hotter in Nashville, TN than Prescott, AZ on those two days, it was significantly more humid on average through the day as well. And for what it's worth, it was a couple of degrees hotter on the "heater core bypassed" day - 87 versus 85. You can choose to believe me or not. You're free to disagree with me - you're not gonna hurt my feelings. But I have a serious problem when you go telling everyone "it doesn't make a difference" in every thread when I have data showing that it most certainly does for at least some people's trucks, mine included. Unfortunately, I don't have any data on heater performance with and without the control valve, but I wouldn't expect a massive difference. It's something I'd eventually like to do, but not a lot of time for that right now sadly. Just, for the love of (insert your choice of supernatural being here) don't buy an aftermarket heater control valve. Get one from Mopar directly.

You're putting it lightly. Especially when it's rusty and you can hardly tell where the spot welds are to begin with. And I do believe that I was the first person to ask about the frame caps in this thread. My use for them would probably be as a pattern to make new ones from.

TLOTR Video games or movies?

Transparency Report: 5 December 2020 Number of people on waiting list: 107, including 22 new additions Projected orders shipped next week: 3 Why have the numbers changed so little since August? Here are a few excuses: I was out of the state for most of September. Shortly thereafter, my medical issues showed their face again and caused approximately two weeks of downtime. For those who don’t know, I was diagnosed with epilepsy early in the year, which makes me prone to seizures that can mentally and physically debilitate me for as long as three weeks afterwards. The medication I take seems to be working, but it has its own side effects. Waiting List Clarification The process of contacting people in groups of 10 in the correct order is by its very nature meticulous and slow. In addition, some customers are on the waiting list for orders that are simpler to complete than full radio restorations or purchases, such as a wiring harness adapter or DIY kit. As a result, I will be implementing the following changes effective immediately: The following items are now exempt from the waiting list, and can be ordered by anyone at any time: All DIY Kits All wire harness products, including wire harness adapters and pre-made repair harnesses. For more information on these items, please contact me or see the “Products” section of the website. Expect your item to ship within approximately a week after payment is received. Enhanced Radio Listings In the coming weeks, I will once again be offering Enhanced Radios from my stock for sale at times. These radios will mostly consist of Chrysler-Era units with the most popular options. These offers will be posted on the Facebook page, the website (under the Radios For Sale section), and on my vendor page on Comanche Club’s Classifieds section. Customers on the waiting list who have shown an interest in a radio similar to the one being offered will also be made aware of the offer. The process will work as follows: The listing will be made public on all platforms at the same time (within an hour, at the very most). For 48 hours, the listing will be only open to those who have entered themselves on the waiting list. If no-one on the waiting list has claimed the radio within that time, the listing will become open to anyone who is not on the waiting list. Website Updates The website has received a significant update, bringing it to version 2020.12.05. A summary of changes is as follows: A disclaimer has been added to the “Contact” page advising potential customers of the waiting list in an eye-catching way. The outdated “store” page should no longer appear on Google search results (for some reason, a software glitch was causing Google to lead people to a version of the site from 2017!). The underutilized WordPress blog on the front page has been updated, and new major posts will now feature on the website’s front page in addition to Facebook and Comanche Club. A new "Radios For Sale" page has been added, which will be where any current Enhanced Radio offers are listed, in addition to here.

I'm at the point in this project where I know I want to do it, but I'm not 100% sure of how I'm going to accomplish it yet, but it seems like I'm going to be making one.

"Not very original" is the catchphrase of this build, my friend. There is currently 0 original removable panels left. There is no interior currently installed. The original engine is garbage. The original transmission is surprisingly fine, but it's a 2WD internal slave AX-15 so it's on the hit list. Oddly enough, the only original drivetrain component that stands a chance of remaining in the long term is the D35. To sum it up, in the long term my goal is to have a handful of original bolts left in this thing, so this is gonna be a very freeform build by my standards. Tim, those pictures will prove to be very useful. I did know about the captive nuts, but I did not know about the reinforcement plate underneath. Much appreciated. I should also point out that the MJ's floor pan has the raised flat section the handbrake sits on stamped into it, so a handbrake was very likely planned at some point but never used in production.

If you wanted to really hate life, I would have suggested you drill the uniframe caps out and send them to me so I have at least something to work with... if the floor on the driver side existed, anyway.

I'm preparing to start working on my 89 again, and one of the things that I'm absolutely going to do to it is install an XJ hand parking brake for safety reasons. I just don't trust the factory one, and I especially don't trust one that's been modified. Anyway, I don't have any good measurements on where the thing actually sits on the transmission tunnel, and I'd really like to do this right. Does anyone happen to have measurements for the location of the hole in the trans tunnel for the handbrake assembly, or better yet, a drawing of the hole's dimensions along with those measurements?

My truck had a 4.0L, automatic trans and A/C as its only options. Not even oil pressure or temp gauges.

Coffee Early or late XJ interior?