Minuit

Be warned: I had to buy two Crown power antennas to get one working one. The one that worked has worked for a couple years without problems, though. The connector coming off of it doesn't look like it should plug into the existing antenna wire under the kick panel, but it does. The power antenna is triggered by a relay, which receives 12V from the radio's power antenna wire. The power antenna relay is located roughly under the glove box. You'll need to take the lower dash panel off to get to it. None of the wiring is present in the Comanche dash harness, including the terminal for the "antenna" fuse in the fuse block. The wire coming from it runs across the entire dash harness to the power antenna relay. I de-pinned it from the donor XJ's fuse block to avoid having to splice anything. The wire that runs from the radio to the power antenna relay isn't exactly easy to separate either. That one only runs across half the entire dash harness, though. Wiring is as follows: @schardein The aftermarket ones don't come with the mounting nut, pad, or mounting bracket. So make sure you get all three items. The mounting bracket goes behind the fender liner and looks like this: If anyone else has questions, ask away. Not exactly an afternoon project if you wanna do it the way the factory did it.

For those stubborn ones of us insistent on keeping the 84-96 square mirrors (now that I found a good power set and installed them in my truck, I damn sure ain't taking them out for a while), I found that sticking on a rectangular blind spot mirror in the top corner helps greatly. My idea was so brilliant that Ford actually copied it from me and built it into their mirrors.

Black Cow Cheeseburgers: with or without ketchup?

You'd just use it in place of the fuel pump relay. Seems like a slick enough solution to me.

Likewise, this Started as this

How tall are you? My subjective experience from sitting in XJs is that the seats go back much further in the XJ than in the MJ (you're limited by the back of the seat smacking into the back of the cab in the MJ). Other than that, I have nothing to add to this. A nice '91 XJ Sport in Dark Silver Metallic with red stripes and spare tire carrier is an irrational desire of mine.

...but the individual parts (frame, upholstery, foam, side bolsters) are all mix-and-match within the 1984-1994 time frame, so a 2-door XJ (or MJ) seat with destroyed upholstery can be combined with a 4 door XJ seat's good upholstery. Non-bolstered seats can be converted to bolstered seats as well. Probably good to take the upholstery off a new-to-you seat and run it through the wash anyway. Who knows what kind of gross crap the previous owners subjected it to.

I use 175 +/- 25 mA as a general rule of thumb for standard 30 amp Bosch style automotive relays. Larger relays with higher current ratings may vary, and likewise with smaller ones. To calculate it for a given relay, measure resistance of the coil (in ohms) (usually pins 85 and 86 on an automotive relay), and divide 12 by that number, assuming it's a 12V relay. It is often possible to get a manufacturer datasheet for a relay (especially if it's an electronics or industrial relay) which has all sorts of useful info in it. So, what Ohm said.

I don't think I've ever heard a 4.0 make a sound quite quite like that. I think it sounds pretty cool, but definitely the kind of thing that would get old after a while. Very interested to see what you come up with audio-wise.

Geez, does it rain salt and vinegar in WI?

How much of a draw are we talking here? A number would really help figure out what the draw is coming from. The easiest way to troubleshoot a parasitic draw is to (with the ignition off, both doors closed, and everything turned off) unhook one battery cable, place a multimeter (on amps mode) in series, note the draw, and remove fuses until the draw goes away. For what it's worth, there have been two occasions where I've had parasitic draw on an MJ, and both have been the glove box light. It must be adjusted to turn off when the glove box is closed.

Not to go off on too much of a soapbox rant, but this is a hard lesson that everyone has to learn at some point. Shops, as a general rule, don't know how to (or don't care to) diagnose a damn thing. Electrical, mechanical, whatever. About the best you can expect is to play the numbers with your money and hope the part they replaced fixed it. There will be exceptions, but they are rare. To that point - correct fuel pump sending unit assemblies are not available new through most aftermarket channels for these trucks. They are made by one small company, and as far as I know most aftermarket places insist on selling you the same one that fits the Cherokee, which is wrong in a number of ways. In fact, if they did replace it (and I have my doubts that they did) you're probably worse off as a result of that. Basic function of the fuel gauge can be tested without doing anything but unplugging the connector at the fuel tank. Got some electrical resistors or willing to buy some? From there, the "location" of the problem on the electrical schematic can be found. The gear indicator is basically made up of a string that hooks to the steering column that is connected at the other end to the pointer which should be spring loaded. You may be able to figure out the problem by removing the cluster, or the indicator might just be broken.

All of my cordless tools are Milwaukee. No specific reason - it was the charger that I had when I first got into power tools. Almost all of my power tools are cordless. Can't stand cords. Correspondingly I have a lot of red power tools. The main impact I use is this 3/8 12V. It's an older model but I got a ridiculous deal on it. I don't work on cars much right now but it didn't fail to impress when I did: https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-2454-20-Fuel-Impact-Wrench/dp/B00BYFNJ4O/ref=sr_1_17?dchild=1&keywords=milwaukee+m12+impact&qid=1610674541&sr=8-17 If anger is needed, this 1/2" M18 is the one I have, but I would have bought the brushless version if I could go back. These were the main impact wrench used by a company I worked for back in 2019. I've seen more than one get dropped off a 30' overhead conveyor motor side down and keep working like it was nothing. https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-Electric-Tools-Wrenches-495-2663-20/dp/B0045WQRRY/ref=sr_1_9?dchild=1&keywords=milwaukee+m18+impact&qid=1610674811&sr=8-9 And for screw-like objects I have this too. https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-Electric-Tools-MLW2553-20-Impact/dp/B077ZYMK1W/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=milwaukee+m12+impact+driver&qid=1610675311&sr=8-1 It's not an impact, but one day I bought two batteries and a charger for like 50 bucks and this stupid little brushed motor non-impacting screwdriver came with it. I thought it was just going to sit on a shelf forever, but it's probably most used power tool per dollar. Useful for taking things apart quickly, but especially useful for putting them back together gently. https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Screwdriver-Tool-Only/dp/B00VYNEEZO/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=milwaukee+m12+screwdriver&qid=1610675386&sr=8-1

Only right foot. Parking brake: foot activated or handbrake?

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-7927A-Steering-Remover-Compressor/dp/B000XSCEMQ/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=otc+steering+column&qid=1610653982&s=automotive&sr=1-3 This one does everything on the Saginaw columns including pulling the pivot pins. Doesn't fall apart on you like the cheap ones either. HIGHLY recommended. One of my favorite "special" tools since it makes it so damn easy.

Wow, I really don't know what to say.

I prefer the common colors both aesthetically and practically. These days I think my all time favorite would be the Limited interior in Sand. That color was used through 1996 and should be at least possible to find replacement parts for, or spray them myself. Card games or board games?

$3397, and NOT ONE DOLLAR MORE!

Full text for anyone who had trouble reading: IMPORTANT: Considerable time and money has been spent in developing the urethane parts that enhance the beauty of your new car. Extreme care must be exercised so that you do not damage these parts. The front spoiler is vulnerable to curbs, driveway approaches, etc. Slow down and exercise care and your vehicle will retain it's [sic] beauty for many years to come. Very cool!

If I'm not mistaken, the Jeep knob is different from the GM knob, but still compatible. Possibly only 91+.

Short answer: Yes, but I don't know if I have enough material to make for an interesting enough update on its own. Medium answer: I think I have a solid, original circuit design and a pretty slick plan for implementing it into the radio, but my priorities lie elsewhere for this very moment. Longer answer: I have a small number of the prototype boards and the components to assemble them and install them into radios, but between chipping away at the waiting list, preparing new informational materials (such as the video I just accidentally committed myself to making), and developing new products it's hard to keep everyone happy. So the end result is that I find myself rotating between those three main "modes". But on top of all of this - I'm not working 72 hour weeks at this, and I'm not afraid to admit that there are some days where the desire just isn't there. I currently see my backlog as my biggest liability. Thus far I have been very strict in addressing customers in the order that they first got in touch with me. However, the reality is that some names on the list represent a lot more time than others. For example, one customer may want a complete rebuild of a rare radio with hard to find parts, no matter how much I try to talk them out of it. One customer may "just" want a bulb replacement or a wire harness. Two very different amounts of labor, but they both take up one line on the waiting list. If the first guy is ahead of the second guy, he (and everyone else below) has to wait for me to find those rare parts, lest I get overwhelmed. I think I'd get a lot more names crossed off the list more quickly if I was a little bit more lax about doing the waiting list in order, and perhaps aiming to get some "easier" orders done in between big jobs. Curious what people would think about this.

Manufacturing these "solvent traps" and "inline fuel filters" into legal suppressors after filing a Form 1 is a thing, but who knows if these are actually worth a damn compared to a real suppressor once you go through the effort.

Classy enough to get a pass from me On the other hand, if @89 MJ is purposefully going for the gaudy, brightly lit side of the 80s and 90s, there are plenty of those out there too. I'd never be caught dead with one of these in my truck (in no small part because the shiniest vintage car radios go for thousands), but damn if I wouldn't want to have one around:

If we're really getting picky, what color is your interior? What about the radio? If you have a cordovan interior (the only interior color that was offered in both 1987 and 1990), your seats will have a different fabric than an 87 should have regardless of trim level. Also, if you have a full gauge cluster, the 1987 version is cosmetically different from the 1990 version.