Minuit

Incorrect gauge cluster and right hand switch panel on top of what's listed in the ad. Neither of those are bad things. Far from unmolested, but could be worse. Kinda depends on the floors. That's a matter of water intrusion and covered storage, not salt. I hope it's an $11k truck for my own selfish reasons.

I've had this happen too, but it would start back up immediately after shutting down. So a dead coil may not stay dead for long enough to test for spark.

I would imagine that this part would be shared with the other Saginaw column shift columns of the day. The Jeep columns really aren't anything special in that regard.

If anyone is curious about the headrests on the very early XJs, the '84 dealership brochure shows headrests on only the Wagoneer Limited. The '85 brochure shows headrests on every model and trim, and from then on all XJ bucket seats had headrests. The XJ Cherokee and non-Limited Wagoneer might well have started to get headrests in the middle of the '84 model year, no idea. The only reason '91 and '92 MJ bench seats had headrests is that they were mandated on pickup trucks starting in '91, FYI.

Hey, 8.27 ain't half bad for a 33 year old, automatic pickup that's shaped like a brick. Faster than a lot of "sports cars" of the day. Of course, that's if the measuring device is trustworthy.

NSS testing diagram in case you need it still: The NSS should have continuity between the pairs of terminals shown above in each shifter position. As for brand, the factory original has never done me wrong. They can be taken apart relatively easily and the terminals cleaned if they get flaky. I disassembled, cleaned, and regreased my NSS in 2013 and it has been flawless since. I don't know if the aftermarket ones are different in construction from the factory, but reconditioning an original and using it instead may be something to consider. I do have a well documented allergy to aftermarket parts, so your mileage may vary.

@scaleless is correct. It clips on to the outside of the column.

You haven't mentioned any change when the shifter is in the "1-2" position. In the absence of electronic control, the AW4 will default to "1-2" being first gear, "3" being third gear, and "D" being overdrive. It almost sounds like your "slipping" is just what happens when you try to start from a stop in fourth gear, and you still have an electronic fault somewhere. If you haven't, give that a shot and see what happens. Have you checked the connector from the neutral safety switch?

The difference between them is literally "there are M6 threads where the rivets used to go"

I've done it before. I don't see any reason why it would hurt.

As far as I know, all years had the featureless "celtic grain" vinyl and "premium vinyl" as the basic options for bench and basic bucket seats. They both suck and fall apart fast. Cloth fabrics: 1986: Mesa II (bench, basic bucket), Highland Check (high line bucket) 1987: Mesa II (bench, basic bucket), Hunter's Plaid (high line bucket, Laredo) 1988: Canyon (bench, basic bucket), Hunter's Plaid (high line bucket, Laredo), Luggage (high line bucket, Eliminator) 1989: Canyon (bench, basic bucket), Luggage (high line bucket, Eliminator) 1990: Canyon (bench, basic bucket), Luggage (high line bucket, Eliminator) 1991: Jamaica (bench, basic bucket), Luggage (high line bucket, Eliminator) 1992: Jamaica (bench, basic bucket), Luggage (high line bucket, Eliminator) Luggage - debuted on 1988 Eliminator, shared after 1988 with Laredo and XJ Country. Fairly durable but tends to tear where the cloth meets the vinyl. I've also seen this on a bench seat once, but that might have just been reupholstered. This fabric was also found on the base seats on the 1986 XJ Wagoneer. Canyon Jamaica - replacement of Canyon. Looks like a plain color from a distance but it actually has colored threads built in. Really durable, but if you're not careful cleaning the colored threads tear out of it. Mesa II on the left, Hunter's Plaid on the right. Mesa II is extremely durable and is like a burlap sack in texture. Hunter's Plaid is the opposite. Highland Check - '86 Comanche XLS, '86 Cherokee Laredo

Is it bad that I pretty much know the year/name breakdown of all of the years and fabrics off the top of my head? No time to make a real post of it right now.

Hey! The '91 Sportruck stripes look like something you'd see on the side of a paper water cup:

Since you've got it all apart, might as well. It's not exactly a bolt-in swap on an older truck, though.

While we're at it... anyone got any experience with A/C line crimping tools?

I probably spent more time trying to get the rear drums working on my 91 than anything else. I don't know if they worked for more than 2 months at a time between me getting the truck and the disc conversion. Every part was new, sometimes replaced more than once. Two of the wheel cylinders I installed leaked within a year of me putting them on, and the final thing that led to me putting discs on was a wheel cylinder just straight up blowing apart. The drums on the D44 and non-C clip D35 aren't bad. Haven't had any trouble out of those beyond typical drum brake stuff. The ones on the C-clip D35 can eat $#!& and die in a fire for all I care.

I have rear disc brakes from a ZJ on my 91's D35 (as I understand it, the ZJ discs are practically if not identical to Explorer discs) and I actually needed to reverse an adjustment I'd done previously to the factory load-sensing valve that sent more fluid to the rear to prevent premature rear lockup after the disc conversion, for what it's worth. Pretty sure I ended up putting it right back in the factory location. Otherwise the rear end would try to swing around every time. Stock master cylinder and booster too. From what some people say here you'd think I'd just about be better off opening the door and trying to stop with my foot than pushing the brake pedal, but it seems to be working just fine for me. YMMV - as the demands you put on your braking system increase (tire size being a big one), you'll cross a point where the stock components just don't cut it anymore. But I can say that 29" street tires and ZJ discs out back isn't that point.

Connectors exist to aid serviceability/manufacturability, and sometimes to provide test points or "disconnect points" on the harness (for instance - the "Ignition Off Draw" connector that's present in HO harnesses is a single plug you disconnect to disable everything that could run the battery down in storage). In exchange for that, you do gain a tiny chance of the connector causing trouble. When using high quality connectors in the correct way, you minimize that risk to almost 0. AMC did not always use high quality connectors, nor did they use them the correct way. And they had the nasty habit of positioning them right in harm's way. I really hate seeing connectors being arbitrarily deleted, and if I owned a C101 connector-having truck I'm not even 100% sure I'd delete it - I'd clean the contacts and pack it full of dielectric grease for sure - but cutting at wiring makes a shiver run down my spine just a little. As to why I wouldn't delete that connector in particular, if I'm not mistaken you're referring to a grey 10-pin connector in roughly the vicinity of the parking brake pedal. That harness also contains oddly enough a Weatherpack connector... inside the truck, and is responsible for the dome lights and everything else leaving the cab of the truck towards the rear - fuel pump, tail lights, etc. I'm in the middle of hacking out the remaining floor rust in my 89, which just happens to be right about where that harness runs. So it's convenient to take that harness out so I don't have to worry about damaging it, and then plugging it back in if I need the fuel pump to work.

If smooth and consistent curves are very important to you, you may also want to pick up a tubing bender capable of doing 3/16 tubing, available in cheap and expensive flavors. The copper-nickel brake tubing is easy to bend by hand, but a tool helps a bit in making it look nice. Also, don't forget a tubing cutter, and here's a less expensive 3/16" only, double flaring tool.

The only really decent fog lights these ever got were the Marchal 750s that disappeared pretty early on. If you go looking for a set of those in nice condition, prepare for some sticker shock. The Rust Out Lights did as the name suggests and the Blazer ones were kind of just cosmetic attachments, at least if mine are anything to go by.

I'd argue that the brakes not working diminishes the value a hell of a lot more... In your situation, I strongly doubt that the 95/96 booster will actually improve your stopping distance. What it will do is lower pedal pressure, which is a matter of preference and may give the illusion to some that the truck will stop in a shorter distance. The only time swapping a booster will actually improve the braking distance an inch is if you literally could not lock your front brakes before. A properly working stock booster/MC should be able to lock the front brakes no problem as long as the tires are approximately stock size - I know both of mine can. Switching to the 95/96 unit is a more involved job than simply swapping out parts. What makes you think it's the booster/MC? Any fluid dripping on the ground? Any fluid coming out of the rear drums? I'd say don't open up the engine if it sounds good and has good compression. I'd change gaskets to eliminate leaks at the most. Opening up a well-running engine is a path to trouble IMO.

I think this is a good idea.

Fewer pictures of the wheels and more of the interior and engine bay would be nice. This one's not really setting off any emotions in me. Completely not my thing. Meh?

Maybe I'm just in a bad mood today, but this thing is THE example of a fancy style over substance, cobbled together mess in my mind. Too-short control arms, wrong header panel, no badges, no A/C, etc. No interior pics in this listing, but as of 2017 it had a very basic grey interior with a reupholstered bench seat and rubber floor mat. Factory radio (looks like the semi-rare Korean knockoff RX-135), but a style over substance cobbled together mess that's never going to be used is about the only thing the '89 factory radios were good for. Painting the engine bay is a nice touch though. What I'd do with it: Nothing, because it's a non-A/C truck, and there are certain things that just aren't happening.

Yup, that's excellent. Two things: from what I can tell, the seats have been reupholstered (they should match the door panel plaid fabric) and the radio has been switched out for one from a later model.