Minuit

I've actually started to like our little Ender 3 for making various stupid little things, albeit ours barely has an original part left on it. One of these days I'll sit down with a CAD package and actually model something complex out... once I stop being lazy about it.

But I'm telling you it is. It's an AX-15, no ifs, ands, or buts about it. It's split laterally, not longitudinally - which rules out the BA-10. The case consists of a front half and a back half connected through a thick plate in the middle, ruling out the NV3550. It bolted up to a 4.0L engine, which rules out the AX-4 and AX-5. The case has vertical and horizontal ribbing, which rules out the Borg-Warner T4. So you don't have to just take some random dude on the internet's word for it: Just outside my house I have an '89 Comanche 4.0 with its original 2-wheel drive AX-15 installed. I went and took some photos from as similar an angle as I could to what you've provided to us. Compare: The tail housings are exactly the same shape, everywhere you look. Further down the case, you can see that the shape of the ribbing is nearly identical. Just below the shift tower, you've got one bolt pointed at another. The Torx bolt is in the same place. The center plate (and RTV gasket) is visible on both and has an identical profile. The shift towers have an identical profile. Believe me yet?

AX-15. Maybe a broken AX-15 that won't go into 5th, but totally an AX-15.

Bosch pump. You'll need to do some trimming to the plastic pieces that are included with it. Don't just look at the ground and test it. If you're going to go to the effort, you might as well clean the ground put it back together.

Just got back from getting the first shot Pfizer. Second shot is on my birthday. Gotta love it.

Post some pictures of the front grille and passenger side firewall. If it has A/C controls on the inside installed, there's a good chance it's actually an A/C truck but just doesn't have all of the parts installed. The dashboard is shared with 84-96 XJ Cherokees. The grey interior color was used from 1988-1996. In approximately 1994, a minor change to the dash eliminated the crotch vent. Other than repairing the dash you've got, finding another one is your option. I haven't had good luck repairing even very minor damage to these vinyl-over-foam dashes, but that's probably just me.

and if it's this, it has to be replaced with submersible fuel hose.

The gauge cluster wasn't covered by the Pioneer package. I think you got carpet and a couple of other small things with it though. I'd eat my hat if it wasn't original paint. The orange peel looks just right.

I have a 96 blower motor in my 89. It plugged right in. That's something that I honestly suggest replacing with new unless you need one badly and have a spare, anyway. The thermal probe's purpose is to regulate the system by cycling the compressor off when the evaporator is below a certain temperature. You need it. The probe is different between HO and Renix.

You will need to pay attention to the impedance of the speakers you're using versus what the amp is rated for (I am assuming and strongly suggesting you're going to be doing this with some kind of amplifier rather than just the headunit alone). If you're going to do this in an either/or way, probably no problem, but if there is any situation where cab and tower speakers are running at the same time, you'll need to be careful.

No reason you can't switch a set of speakers. The easiest way would be to do as Eagle says - run each pair of speaker wires through a switch that goes to the cab speakers one way and the tower speakers the other way. Just make sure the switch you use is rated to the power output of the amplifier.

I've added your name to the list. Thanks!

HOs have more of the "it just @#$%ing works" factor than Renix-era trucks stock-vs-stock. However, all of the general good advice that many of Cruiser's tips are based in still applies. Refreshing electrical connections is never a bad idea. At this age, a general electrical re-conditioning is in order. With your connections free of any accumulated resistance over the years, everything will work just that little bit better and be just a little bit happier overall. Often, unplugging and re-plugging a connector a few times might even make a difference. I recommend using your choice of electrical contact cleaner. On any un-sealed connectors used in the engine bay (especially the front lighting connector), I recommend a coating of dielectric grease to keep moisture out. There's still the multiple ground point at the dipstick tube stud that's probably absolutely caked in oil and road grime. Clean, re-install, and seal with Fluid Film or similar, or your choice of dielectric grease to prevent crud from getting back into it. Keep the battery terminals clean, and don't forget to clean the cable from the battery to the PDC. Pop the relays and fuses out of the PDC, squirt some contact cleaner in there, and reinsert. For those of you inclined to add new circuits, the PDC can sometimes make for a good tap-in spot to keep things tidy under the hood. Here, I have the 12V feed for my headlight relay harness tapped into the PDC rather than the battery. Obviously, this depends on the size of the wire and terminal you're using, but it's just a thought. Get a group 34 battery for an approximately 10 amp-hour increase in capacity. The factory battery retainer will still fit, if only just. The factory battery terminals are probably pretty janky looking by now. Here were mine before: Replace those with some high quality military style cables and terminals. For the love of all that is holy, don't use the ones that clamp the terminal to the bare wire using bolts. If you don't know what I'm talking about, military style battery terminals are connected to the cables by a through-bolt at the rear of the terminal. Each cable has a lug corresponding to the size of the bolt crimped onto it. A number of people make pre-made sets for our jeeps, and hydraulic crimpers that do an acceptable job making the required crimps are available at surprisingly reasonable prices. [possibly 91 only] - if your brake lights don't work, make sure this connector is plugged in near the battery:

While you're checking the headlight switch for basic function and a molten connector, I'd also check the dash ground on the lower left side of the dash frame, and also make sure the bolts holding the dash to the body on either side are tight.

What?

Don't forget to check the valve cover gasket, CCV system, and last but certainly not least, the oil drain plug. After I replaced the RMS, 90% of my oil leakage was from a drain plug that just didn't seal anymore. The sealing surface on the plug has a finite number of uses, and will leak eventually. Also, the current Mopar recommendation is to apply an anaerobic sealant (the dealer sells one which is what I use) to this location:

How many screws did you remove to get the trans out?

Yeah, and that's not even half of what's offputting with it, and there's no fantasy universe where it's worth 15k. Still kinda neat as a 2dr Limited though.

If I could own ANY XJ... it'd probably be this: '88 2dr Limited. https://www.worldwidevintageautos.com/vehicles/7439/1988-jeep-cherokee-limited @eaglescout526 https://www.worldwidevintageautos.com/vehicles/7441/1985-jeep-cherokee '85 XJ Wagoneer... DIESEL https://www.ebay.com/itm/1985-Jeep-Cherokee-Wagoneer/393178620283?hash=item5b8b45a17b:g:y4MAAOSw~n1gRneQ

Sorry to disappoint, but I don't have good numbers on how much the various accessories draw. Won't stop me from guessing though. And it also reveals a shame I have to admit: surrounded by electrical test gear I may be, I don't actually own a DC clamp meter. I literally don't have the ability to measure DC currents over 10 amps. So, as a result of this, these figures are a combination of intuitive guessing based on the wire gauge and fuse rating, what the FSM says, what I found on google, and what I pulled out of my @$$. So take everything you read here with a grain of salt and a considerable tolerance. I'm a semi-pro vehicle electronics person and I hold no formal credentials in this area but have spent quite a bit of time studying. Not all of this is a direct response to you @ghetdjc320, but I had some extra stuff I wanted to add that might be useful to someone, and might end up in a compilation post someday. TCU: Probably well under 5 amps, the highest draw almost certainly being from the solenoid driver transistors. The solenoids are specced at 11-15 ohms; they'd draw about an amp each. Highest draw would be in second gear. Just sitting in park, I don't think any of the solenoids are active. Probably contributes nearly nothing in an idle condition. A/C clutch: Roughly 5 amps or so, maybe a little less seems reasonable to me. Couldn't find a spec in the FSM. UAC, a popular aftermarket supplier of remanufactured paperweights A/C parts gives 3-5 ohms as a typical resistance for a clutch coil. HVAC fan: I honestly have no idea. This circuit is fused at 25A on HO models and fed by a 12AWG wire. 15-20A on full blast sounds about right to me, with each lower position subtracting about 5 amps. An aged blower motor with dried out bearings could cause this number to creep up. I recommend replacing these pre-emptively with the Four Seasons version that comes with the wheel attached since this seems to be such a common problem. Calculating current draw of motors is actually somewhat more complicated than the usual V=IR that we try to keep things to around here, but moving air does take quite a bit of effort. Fuel pump: Fed by a 14AWG wire on the HO models, although it does run from the PDC to the fuel tank. The factory fuel pump doesn't strike me as being an especially ballsy unit and the ballast resistor will drop that circuit's current draw by a bit, but I'm not really up to date on my fuel pump amp draw numbers. I'll give it 10A, but I really think it's probably lower than that. Aux fan: Not even going to guess. I'm also not going to blow the fuse on my meter to go find out. Big startup spike, less big steady state draw. As you can tell, the power consumption of electric fans is a nontrivial issue. I like my clutch fan, to be honest. ECU: Coordinating six fuel injectors going pew-pew and doing all of the other stuff the ECU does draw a bit of power, but not THAT much. I'd say a couple of amps on a continuous basis tops. As far as things that draw a significant amount of current, the ECU is responsible for switching a few relay coils (150mA or so each) and pew-pewing the 14-ohm fuel injectors for a few milliseconds at a time. Lighting: Let's say you've got two 55W low beams, and a bunch of 2057 bulbs with their 7W dim filaments on only. Add in the license plate lights and that's about 12-14A worth of lighting in total. Add a little more for instrument panel lighting and dome lights and stuff like that if you really want to be particular. Since I know someone will ask, a radio playing at normal listening volume will add less than an amp. Much of that will be the light bulbs on the radio. Amplified systems are of course more, but their draw is transient. Of course, a big enough sound system will create a need to install a bigger alternator. I went out this morning and tested things out on my truck. At idle, I turned absolutely every electrical load on I could except the A/C clutch - it's evacuated right this minute. I pulled the plug for the coolant temp sensor to make the aux fan run. Windshield wipers, fog lights, blower, everything. I didn't see a voltage below 14V at the battery terminals, and that's with my original 90A alternator. For what it's worth, I have a new aftermarket 97+ style auxiliary fan on my truck. The factory alternator is sufficient for the factory setup, and maybe a little more if you switch out some halogen bulbs with LEDs or something like that. Jeep wouldn't design a system that lets you run the battery down by idling with accessories on. But once you start adding much of anything to that system, it's time to consider a new alternator. But "upgrading" to the biggest alternator you can stuff under the hood is no good if the smaller unit is up to the task anyway. I wonder how the police package "extended idle" option is integrated into the ECU. Probably just grounds out a pin on the ECU plug or something.

I don't believe this is an HO sender. My HO unit has the potentiometer element exposed. On this one and every other Renix one I've seen, it's covered.

OK, I have to admit - this got a belly laugh out of me. And I'm not a "belly laugh at things on the internet" kind of guy.

I just bought a new Mopar water pump for my 91 - has the Chrysler pentastar cast into it and everything. Comes with a beaded gasket just like the Mopar thermostat packages have as well.

Fixing the A/C the right way would've been easier. And work a lot better.