Jump to content

Minuit

Members
  • Posts

    5139
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    13

Everything posted by Minuit

  1. Minuit

    How old are you?

    This is looking like an almost perfect normal distribution so far...
  2. Just something I was a little curious about. I've noticed recently that a LOT of members, including some very prolific and productive ones, are very young. As in, not old enough to have their driver's license yet. I don't mind answering my own question. I'll be 25 in April, and I had just turned 16 when I joined. I didn't post anything that was actually helpful to anyone for a while after that, and I always felt like I was the only young person. Now that I'm well on my way to being a crotchety old bastard myself, it seems opposite now.
  3. I almost feel like the disclaimer was directed right at me for some reason Hey, I'm one of the most vocal purists on this forum, but look - where I live, most people would say that thing's ready for the crusher as-is. Anything you do to restore it from its current sad state is a win in my book. One thing I really don't want to see in this community is a culture of "you must build your truck this way or you can't be friends with us" - and I hope that isn't the impression you got. This place is called Comanche Club, not "The Association of Snobby Jeep Truck Purists" and I'd really rather not have this place seem like a bunch of snobs with nothing better to do tut-tutting everyone else. Also, finally someone else thinks about the poor floor bracing in a floor pan repair! Yeah, you're not one of the hackjobbers. You'll fit in just fine here. As for rarity, that truck is probably near the top of the list as far as rarity goes. 92 (even more if it was built in 1992), 4x4, Eliminator, color might even be the pretty rare Silver Star Metallic (which I'm a fan of because my 91 is that same color) - all of those are worth a few rarity points. Oddly enough, I think the 2.5L engine might have been worth rarity points over the 4.0L by 92, but you definitely weren't getting that in an Eliminator or with an automatic. Also, I don't think I've seen color matched silver flares on an MJ before and I like how they look...
  4. Hello thread from 2019, I'm just here to remind you that I haven't forgotten about this and am in a good position to be making progress on it as we progress towards the warmer part of the year - for most of us, anyway. I did lose a huge amount of really useful information though - a website that had great info from highly reliable sources (and a few genuine experts and pioneers in the field) deleted their archives as part of an update sometime in the last year. That's info going back 15 or so years, just gone.
  5. I'd almost go so far as to say you're wasting your time if you don't fix the leaks.
  6. I suspect that molten look is distortion from the plastic connector body being exposed to clutch fluid. My 89 had a clutch master cylinder leak that badly damaged the fusebox itself, and the old fusebox had a similar look to it in places.
  7. Looking closer at that picture: can you post a couple more angles of the center of both sides where the bolt goes through? The connector body looks a little molten to me. That makes me strongly suspect the clutch master cylinder leaked right on to it at some point.
  8. That looks to me like old grease. It was the factory's method for sealing the connector, among other things. There's usually a lot more grease in them than that. I would suggest giving the terminals a cleaning and packing the connector with new grease. And I really do mean pack it with grease. That connector leaking water into the cab is a big contributor to floor pan rust, so you might just be killing two birds with one stone here. Since I can see a clutch master cylinder, better make sure it has not leaked onto the fuse box. That is a very common cause of severe electrical problems on these trucks. It looks pretty new - why was it replaced?
  9. I would. Just to see if you could write the full number out without needing to use scientific notation.
  10. The only thing that would be easier in my mind is an old (by that I mean 80s and earlier) domestic full-size truck with an engine bay big enough to swim in. In most regards, the MJ is a fairly elegant mix of old and new. The 86 is the worst model year, no doubt. If it's a V6, that engine is trash and should not be mistaken for the famous AMC inline 6. The 1986 6-cylinder engine is a GM product and actually made less horsepower than the 4-cylinder option. The 4-cylinder is underpowered but otherwise "fine, I guess". The fuel injector for it may be expensive/difficult to find in working order if it goes bad. The 4.0L engine in 1987-1992 trucks is what you really want, unless you have your sights set on this specific one.
  11. From my point of view he ruined it. That other thread was talking about reversible mods that could just be unbolted when he got tired of the truck and got ready to sell. This guy went straight for hacking and slashing.
  12. Reasons I will be doing a 4WD conversion: - I want it - It will make me happy - One more item checked off the list of " add every single 1991 factory option" - I've already mentally attached the "4x4" and "Selec-Trac" badges to my truck - If I run into a small patch of wet grass in my driveway I can put it into full-time instead of going around @Jesse J The front axle setup on a 2WD is literally the same as on a 4WD except the "axle" on the 2WD is just a tube with no diff. They came from the factory with springs that resulted in a 1" lower ride height, but literally every single other thing about them is the same. You can put whatever lift kit you want on a 2WD truck, no problem at all.
  13. This it?
  14. The market for these trucks is small enough that personal preference of individual buyers really is going to be the driving force. It would seem that the build style you're describing (97+ conversion, 33s) is a popular look. Personally, it's not my cup of tea, but enough people seem to like 97+ converted trucks. I think as long as the mods in question are well done, you'd do just fine. If you want to gouge your eyeballs out reading my overly long and melodramatic take on it, here's an effort-post I did about modifications and values a while ago. Keep in mind that I'm a persnickety a$$hole about this kind of thing, my preferences tend toward originality, and the thread I originally posted this in was more about restored trucks, if I remember right. Maybe you'll get something out of it I will say that I don't think you'll be taking away from the value by removing the originality. In my mind, that's only really important when the truck is an absolute 10/10 as-is. There are plenty of all-original turdbuckets around. Besides, it's already had its originality taken away by the repaint. It's only original once, and whoever got it painted has already crossed the Rubicon(heh) with this one. And, of course, it doesn't sound like you plan to destroy it bouncing it off rocks, so you could always undo some of the mods and end up with a pretty clean truck when you go to sell.
  15. And, in my case, make an annoying clak-ca-clak-clak noise at highway speeds.
  16. Minuit

    Rolls-Royce SUV

  17. oof I've come across a few obviously rear-ended MJs in junkyards with broken rear windows myself, never thought to snap a pic of them though. It's easy to forget that the MJ is an artifact of the time when safety was just starting to become a serious concern for automakers. Although to be fair, back when the MJ was designed, there were a lot fewer 3-ton "lifestyle vehicles" with grilles at chest level running around.
  18. Referring to the two types of displays they used. VFD - I personally pulled this clock from a completely unmolested '87: LCD - The gojeep site says this is a 1990 clock, but I personally pulled this out of an '88 MJ: There was as far as I can tell a different clock every model year, as well as three different connector types. The ones with the bulbs in them are pretty much trash in my opinion.
  19. 14th most-replied tech question in the history of the site.
  20. You can get a VFD clock in the 87-90 connector style as well. I don't have an extra one, but they definitely exist.
  21. But what if he comes across a #8 pan head Philips, or heaven forbid a #10? What then?
  22. Sure hope nobody was actually in that thing when the roof got squished...
  23. So, here's where we stand right now. Actually, not quite. There's about 3 inches more snow on it now, but I busted my @$$ on icy stairs the last time I went out to get pictures, so that'll have to do. As to what I've actually done to the truck in the past... like, year. Here goes: I replaced the cab vent flap things with new ones printed by @Dzimm - I found the quality of the print to be good, and the fit in the truck to be approximately equal to the OEM part: I can't say if they'll reduce wind noise or the annoying flap-flap noise of the old rubber flaps at speed, as I haven't actually ridden in the truck since putting these in. I'll update once I do. Somehow, I misplaced one of the chrome armrest trims for my Limited door panels at some point. @schardein kindly sent a replacement down, and my chrome armrest bits are whole again: Finally, I installed a set of chrome power mirrors. The wiring "exists from the factory" in a sense, because it was part of the independent power accessory wiring used by '91 and '92 cross-body harnesses, so I laid it in as part of that when I did the power windows and locks. All I had to do was plug in the switch, the mirrors, and the single power lead it uses into the fuse box. The ground is shared with the ground point I made. A very simple and elegant install. Going from black to chrome is kind of a big stylistic change for the very conservative nature of this build, but it's growing on me. I kind of like the idea of "chrome above the body line, black below it" that the chrome windshield and drip rail trim creates. I'll take some pictures once the truck isn't frozen under a car cover and several inches of ice. I'm closing in on a vision of what I want to see done by my next big milestone, which I'm officially setting as July 24, 2021 - the first day of this year's All Breeds Jeep Show. I'm not gonna lie - motivation to work on cars is hard to come by in Minuit-land these days, but I'll get over it. As I said above, I'm sitting on a pile of parts related to several different projects, although to be perfectly honest I'm not totally sure if I have enough parts on hand to complete any of them. Some highlights: - I have literally everything I need on hand to make the overhead console functional except the connector for the ambient air temperature sensor. And yes, it is going to be fully functional. Very annoyingly, the connector I need for the sensor is one of those stupid Chrysler connectors, not anything I can buy new. I lucked out a while ago and scored a NOS overhead console computer (the most common failure of these is due to cumulative heat - the voltage regulator puts out a huge amount of heat. Combined with being right up on the roof, eventually the capacitors dry out and the circuit board basically melts), but I'm pretty sure there's a more reliable replacement available - the part number maps to 94-98 Dodge Ram trucks. The connector looks the same, but I don't have one to try. - I tracked down a roughly 1 volt drop across the ignition switch - that's on the short list of things that can burn an MJ down, and neatly explains why my amplifier stopped turning on without the truck running (it won't turn on on anything less than 12V). A new (Mopar) replacement switch is in transit. That's gotten me going down the line of doing a general electrical tune-up. Mainly, this is going to mean new battery cables which I'll be making myself, but also the usual connector cleaning and whatnot. I considered buying a pre-made set of cables from one of the many makers on the internet, but decided to do it myself so I get exactly what I want. Currently, once you consider tooling costs, it looks like I'll be saving a cool negative 100 dollars! - I've noticed a steadily growing dribble of coolant from the front of the engine, and I know for a fact that the weep hole in the (aftermarket) water pump has dribbled a little bit from almost day one. Pretty sure the thermostat housing gasket is leaking a little too. Since I'm a little tired of dealing with that, I've loaded up the parts cannon: The thermostat, housing, water pump, and all related hose clamps are being replaced with new (Mopar) parts. I'll be painting and clearing the parts so they should stay pretty and new-looking. A clean engine bay is important to me. - I'm probably going to be redoing the exhaust - the parts I haven't already redone already. There's a noticeable exhaust leak where I clamped the muffler to the cat even though they didn't want to line up, the factory manifold is cracked (duh), and there are a number of previous hackjobs in the system that don't make me happy. That'll give me an opportunity to take everything back apart and paint it, hopefully increasing its lifespan a little. - I bought a set of new motor mounts as well as a new transmission mount a long time ago, and I'm pretty sure they're in the attic. That doesn't narrow it down nearly as much as you think. - I'd like to do some beautification, especially to the front end. The bumper and all of the trim is starting to get a little dingy looking again. I've got some front tow hooks that need to go on too.
  24. Yup. There were several different part numbers for speakers, and it did vary based on whether it was a 2/4 speaker system and whether or not the Jensen "system" was equipped, so they might not all be 8 ohm.
×
×
  • Create New...