Minuit

Can you order a material or color sample from them? Surely for an expensive purchase like seats they'd have swatches of the actual color.

If that worked, probably just a pin fitment/dirty contact issue. Lucky!

Not exactly a groundbreaking project, but my garage door seal was destroyed, so I fixed it. I haven't been working on much of anything recently, but it's a start. The electronics lab is in the garage and there's no heat, so every little bit of airtightness helps. I've got some insulation to put on the back side of the door and some rubber flaps for the outside - hopefully that'll make it a little less frozen in there.

Pretty sure it's the floor light. If you've got a multimeter, you can check. For a floor light, one wire will have +12V at all times and a ground only when the door is open. If the ground goes away when you push the door switch in, it's for a light. That's about the right place for speaker wiring too, but none of the speaker wires should have two wires crimped in the same connector IIRC.

Dollars to donuts the Comanche badges are in the right place on this one! Although you'd think for $assuredly high price, they'd bother to wipe the wax off from around them: C'mon guys.

HP and bizarre custom parts... tell me about it.

General tip for everyone, not just you: Grounds get a lot of attention on this site, as they well should. Don't forget to check the hot side of the circuit. You say you've already done grounds, but there's just as many chances for a bad connection on the positive side of the circuit. I'm thinking ignition switch, wire harness junction connector, etc. The ignition switch developed high internal resistance in my 89, which caused heat checking to the plug and very poor operation of ignition-on accessories. Replacing the switch immediately made those items work better.

Don't worry, I haven't forgotten

Underhill Motors in Dickson, TN. The tailgate sticker is still present and looks just like new - when I get it painted I think I'm gonna have a copy of it made. \ Looks like they're still in business. Their website doesn't exactly blow me away though: https://underhillmotors.com/default?clearall=1

Don't work with that model, sorry.

By Super Tuner, do you mean the original KP-500 deck or something else? Shoot me a PM.

Pretty soon, this writeup is going to be cleaned up a bit. Not sure why I'm writing this in a post instead of just doing it, but just sayin'.

This 100%. Way too many people don't know about search operators, and the site:comancheclub.com trick on Google is usually more effective than the built in search on any given website anyway. You can also search for "exact phrases" or -subtract -words. You can also search for one thing | another (logical OR) https://moz.com/learn/seo/search-operators

If I'm medically cleared to go, I will be driving up there in my truck.

I feel like this is more of a "wearing the skin of your slain enemies" kind of thing here. No joke, I think this looks really good. Especially from the side.

We have members on this site who were barely out of diapers when those tires were made. You've gotta get those replaced if you ever want to drive this truck. Almost anything is probably better than what you've got now. Not to mention what could happen if the tread on those things separates at speed. Start there, and then move on. Don't spend a penny having 12+ year old tires balanced.

You can't rely on a shop for this. No easy way around it - you're going to have to check the condition of the tires as well as every suspension component. The tires, being large, heavy, possibly out of balance spinny things on either end of the axle, are probably the first place you should look. They're the single easiest place for a vibration to develop. I have personally witnessed tires cause death wobble, and some trucks are more tolerant of unbalanced tires than others.

Well, it's not overheating, is it? Looks like the cooling system did its job to me!

This is an option, but I'd take my chances on a used one versus new. When I first swapped the power mirrors into my 91 I did it using a set I bought on Amazon. One worked about 50% of the time, and the other was OK for about 5 minutes until it quit completely. I got a refund, but still. I don't know if there's more than one company making these aftermarket, but I wasn't feeling like being the guinea pig. The aftermarket ones also lack gaskets and (if I remember correctly) the grommet for the wiring harness.

I used to be into building scale airplanes and cars when I was a kid. Not that I was any good - my best work was a brush painted 1/48 Spitfire Mk. II that looked OK from the other side of the room, but that's about it. Funny that this comes up, I've been thinking about getting a real airbrush setup and doing it for real this time. I probably have half a dozen kits in the attic that I never even started.

insert smart-@$$ comment about Renix scale railroading

@jdog is pretty much right on the money here. I would absolutely love to start adding Bluetooth to radios, and if legally selling them didn't cost tens of thousands of dollars I would start selling them tomorrow. But the reality is that it's just not economically viable. However, the aux input I provide works perfectly with any Bluetooth receiver that plugs into a 3.5mm stereo jack, and there are plenty of them that are very reasonably priced.

Yesterday, I seriously thought about selling this truck to a guy who was driving past and saw it parked in the driveway and asked if it was for sale. I didn't, though.