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GritHound

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About GritHound

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    Can Spell Comanche

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    Georgia

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  1. Thanks for the recognition of effort and time spent. I agree, good parts are starting to get scarce. I didn't really track time because it was more of a fun learning experience for me to do all my own work. I enjoy a more stock look and feel personally but may go full blown lifted 4x4 on my next build. :) I love to see the builds driven by passion.
  2. Hmm. I didn't see a Back to the Future write-up in DIY Projects. I may have to start one... now I just need to figure out how to get this truck to 88 mph. :)
  3. I'm so jealous of the two tone look. Beautiful! I will enjoy watching your progress.
  4. * exhausted :) My latest modification was to replace the whole exhaust system. I had replaced the header earlier but needed to finish the rest. I ordered all the parts and of course forgot to check the length of the tailpipe so I ended up with a 7ft pipe and I have a SWB. After I got that returned it was super easy to swap these out. Using the parts below, there was no welding required and everything matted perfect. Note: Some folks were asking if I put the catalytic converter back or made it a through pipe. I put it back like the original. I may suffer some performance but hopefully save some of the environment when driving around. SWB - Walker Exhaust 46701 Tail Pipe - 6ft LWB - Walker Exhaust 46705 Tail Pipe - 7ft Exhaust Pipe-Front Pipe Walker 44320 Dynomax 17731 Super Turbo Muffler Catalytic Converter Generic 7021-BG
  5. * oil pan, oil pump, and rear main seal When I pulled the engine head and saw the oil build up on the cover and lifters, I decided to replace the oil pump. I figured the screen was probably clogged. In addition, I had a pretty bad oil leak that looked like was the rear main seal so I decide to tackle that also. After removing the starter and putting the frame on jack stands, I was able to get the pan out by sliding it out the back. Due to the position, it was very difficult to get the pan separated from the block so I had to make a little wedge tool (pictured) and tap it with a hammer. I filled the oil pump with petroleum jelly to prevent damage when turning it over. Painted the oil pan and used a Fel-pro gasket with some sealant when putting it all back together. I also made the mistake of using a narrow punch when trying to remove the main seal and split on side of it. I was able to make a thicker punch to get more material from a screwdriver (pictured) and push it out from the other side without any damage. Oil leak still there!! After all that work and finally putting it back together, I still had the oil leak. It turned out to be my distributor gasket...ugh! In the process of replacing the gasket, I over tighten the stem retainer and broke the cast iron stem mount then had to replace the distributor. I also took the opportunity to make sure I was firing on dead center.
  6. * Other small stuff There were a lot of other small items that I did and bought to get this truck the way I wanted it. Rollbar - It took a while for me to find a factory roll bar. There was a guy in Alabama that was trying his comanche and I saw it in off to the side in one of his pictures. It was a 10 hour trip to pick it up and bring it back, but worth it to me. $300 I had a friend powder coat it for me. I picked up my brackets from @krustyballer16 and they fit perfect. Hitch - The Comanche came with a ball hitch setup, but I really need to get a 2" hitch added. I order this from @krustyballer16 also and had it powder coated. I had to make a few cuts to the old hitch to free up the brackets, but the install was straight forward and it works great. Tail Lights - The tail lights were in good shape but definitely showed 30 year usage. I used a combination of dawn scrubbing, wet sanding, and plastic polish to get them back where I wanted them and then sprayed clear coat to keep them looking good for a while. Cup Holder - There were a few areas that had me scratching my head when understanding the engineering on some of the components, but a cup holder? I think the user acceptance department was sound asleep during market adoption testing. I JB welded a GMC cup holder insert to a board and pushed it under the bench seat. It is very stable and works great. Marchal 750 - These things are crazy expensive... It took me a while to find some that I was willing to pay for. I had to swap out the harness in the front to get the fog light connections/relay. I havent ran the wiring for the rollbar lights yet, but will do that soon. Also I just got a cargo light to land both of the switches. Interior Lights - If I wasnt trying to get this back to stock, I would have went with a different interior light. I had to pull these lights apart fix the connectors/lens and put them back together. Very tedious work to get them functioning correctly. Mud Flaps/Splash Guards - I really like the look of the AMC logo'ed splash guards, but havent been able to find them. I was able to find NOS of the correct ones for the my Comanche. They are growing on me so I will probably keep them around I am still in search of the following: Passenger interior door panel - gray Factory brush guard Factory running boards
  7. Thanks. Not sure what happened there. I think it is fixed now.
  8. 🤔 I don't think I trust myself enough to do that.
  9. * cluster gauge update This is my favorite MJ upgrade, mainly because of the engine temp gauge. It was very easy once I had all the right parts. (temp sensor and oil pressure sensor) It took me a little while to figure out if I disconnected the transfer case odometer cable it would give me the slack to disconnect it from the back of the gauge. Everything else was straight forward as all the write-ups describe. I do have an automatic, so I had to cut the column shifter window. If you have a column shifter, make sure to take extra precaution that you don't damage the shifter cable when you initially remove the old cluster panel. Even though my truck is exempt in GA, I matched the mileage exact. Temp sensor: Well TU108 Oil Pressure Sensor: Duralast PS133
  10. * wheels and caps When I bought the Comanche the previous owner put star wheels on it and also offered to provide the original steel wheels so I took them but I really loved the look of turbines. I picked up a set for $100 that were in fairly good shape and striped them with aircraft paint remover then pressure washed them. Once cleaned, I used a orbital sander with various grits and steel wool to clean up the faces and remove rash before taping them off. There was a lot of elbow grease on this effort. I wanted the spokes to pop a bit so I used a darker gray that ended up drying like battleship gray. I may change that in the future but running with it for now. After everything was finished on the rims, I clear coated them. For the caps, I used Brasso to clean them up and used epoxy to fix the center stickers from lifting off. Taped them and sprayed.
  11. * body work If there is one thing I regret, it is not taking more time on the body work. I'm going to repaint this jeep in 10 years so I will have a chance to fix some of my mistakes, but there are a number of small areas that consistently remind me I should have some patience. I painted the whole jeep back to its original color, but fixed dings and surface rust areas. The other frustration area is that the hockey stick decals (mopar) were not oem colors so the top hockey stick did not have the right contrast against the new paint so it is hard to see. I also replaced the windshield and cut out the trim posts, filled and sanded so I could replace it with a rubber seal. Then repainted the trim pieces argent silver so they would match and restored the badges.
  12. * brake booster, proportioning valve, brake lines, solenoids, etc. Because I wanted to use the truck as a daily driver there were couple of updates I felt were needed. The brake booster was one of those updates and since I was changing the booster... you know the rest. I had a leaking brake solenoid and when I tried to loosen the connection, I broke the line so I decided to go head and get started on the brake system. I replaced rear brake lines, solenoids, parking brake cables, drums, drum hardware, and removed the MJ proportioning valve. I used a 95 XJ booster and added a 98 XJ portioning valve in place of the MJ distribution block. I also grabbed some 2003 WJ flex cables to attach it to the master cylinder. End result was a major difference. You should do this upgrade if you havent already. Lessons Learned I over shaved the first brake booster (pic below) and went back to the salvage yard to get another. If you take too much off, the brake switch will not be stable. Make sure that you have your brake nut on the right way (pic below) before your double flare your line. :)
  13. * sound proofing and carpet I don't remember the Wagoneer or XJ's being nearly as loud as the cab in the MJ was. Some of it was due to the exhaust, but I wanted to make this truck as quiet as I could. After pulling the carpet there were just a couple of pinholes on the passenger side that I welded. I removed as much rust as possible and covered the flooring with POR15. I found there where 4 areas of focus to minimize noise in the cab. Front window strip, door seals, sound deadening, carpet/padding. I used noico on the floor of the cab and second skin on the roof, doors and back of the cab. I ordered new carpet from ACC. I was told to use the old carpet as template, but I would suggest that you start with the location of the drivers foot well and work your way out with a roller because the carpet you get won't be exactly like the original carpet.
  14. * heater core and a/c evap The Comanche came with a lovely mild dew smell due to a busted heater core. When you turn your heater on, a burnt coolant smell or lots of moisture fogging up your cab are dead give-aways. I decided to change the a/c evap and surface the grounding areas since I had to pull the dash. Some people state this is a 3hr job, but I took my time and it was about 10hrs (partially a learning curve in there). I couldnt find an original a/c evap and had to make some adjustments to get it to fit. I also had to drill a hole for the temp regulator. When you pull the dash, I suggest you bag and mark all the screws to make your life easier. If you have freon in your a/c, make sure to get it pulled out. Some places will give you credit when you have to refill it. I used various sizes of window sealing tape from HomeDepot to replace a lot of the container seals. Be prepared to buy studs for the container, more than likely some of them will spin when you try to remove them. Lesson learned I did not take the time to seal the firewall up before I put everything back and still have a small water leak when it rains so I have to pull it all back out again in the upcoming weeks to track it down. Son of a....
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