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GritHound's Achievements

Can Spell Comanche

Can Spell Comanche (2/10)

  1. Yes. Set for 1987. I'll keep you all posted on if they move forward. :)
  2. I'm more of a "Either give me what it's worth or it's going to the crusher..." kinda guy.
  3. Right. I'm not sure how much of a stickler they will be, but the badge and grill would probably get me. Depending on the level of interest. I may just change them temporarily.
  4. I may have a movie casting for my Comanche but they are asking for 87 or earlier vehicles. I have a 1990 Pioneer. Are there unique differences in the year that can be identified externally between 86-90 Comanche pioneers? Mirror, rear window, etc?
  5. Thanks for the recognition of effort and time spent. I agree, good parts are starting to get scarce. I didn't really track time because it was more of a fun learning experience for me to do all my own work. I enjoy a more stock look and feel personally but may go full blown lifted 4x4 on my next build. :) I love to see the builds driven by passion.
  6. Hmm. I didn't see a Back to the Future write-up in DIY Projects. I may have to start one... now I just need to figure out how to get this truck to 88 mph. :)
  7. I'm so jealous of the two tone look. Beautiful! I will enjoy watching your progress.
  8. * exhausted :) My latest modification was to replace the whole exhaust system. I had replaced the header earlier but needed to finish the rest. I ordered all the parts and of course forgot to check the length of the tailpipe so I ended up with a 7ft pipe and I have a SWB. After I got that returned it was super easy to swap these out. Using the parts below, there was no welding required and everything matted perfect. Note: Some folks were asking if I put the catalytic converter back or made it a through pipe. I put it back like the original. I may suffer some performance but hopefully save some of the environment when driving around. SWB - Walker Exhaust 46701 Tail Pipe - 6ft LWB - Walker Exhaust 46705 Tail Pipe - 7ft Exhaust Pipe-Front Pipe Walker 44320 Dynomax 17731 Super Turbo Muffler Catalytic Converter Generic 7021-BG
  9. * oil pan, oil pump, and rear main seal When I pulled the engine head and saw the oil build up on the cover and lifters, I decided to replace the oil pump. I figured the screen was probably clogged. In addition, I had a pretty bad oil leak that looked like was the rear main seal so I decide to tackle that also. After removing the starter and putting the frame on jack stands, I was able to get the pan out by sliding it out the back. Due to the position, it was very difficult to get the pan separated from the block so I had to make a little wedge tool (pictured) and tap it with a hammer. I filled the oil pump with petroleum jelly to prevent damage when turning it over. Painted the oil pan and used a Fel-pro gasket with some sealant when putting it all back together. I also made the mistake of using a narrow punch when trying to remove the main seal and split on side of it. I was able to make a thicker punch to get more material from a screwdriver (pictured) and push it out from the other side without any damage. Oil leak still there!! After all that work and finally putting it back together, I still had the oil leak. It turned out to be my distributor gasket...ugh! In the process of replacing the gasket, I over tighten the stem retainer and broke the cast iron stem mount then had to replace the distributor. I also took the opportunity to make sure I was firing on dead center.
  10. * Other small stuff There were a lot of other small items that I did and bought to get this truck the way I wanted it. Rollbar - It took a while for me to find a factory roll bar. There was a guy in Alabama that was trying his comanche and I saw it in off to the side in one of his pictures. It was a 10 hour trip to pick it up and bring it back, but worth it to me. $300 I had a friend powder coat it for me. I picked up my brackets from @krustyballer16 and they fit perfect. Hitch - The Comanche came with a ball hitch setup, but I really need to get a 2" hitch added. I order this from @krustyballer16 also and had it powder coated. I had to make a few cuts to the old hitch to free up the brackets, but the install was straight forward and it works great. Tail Lights - The tail lights were in good shape but definitely showed 30 year usage. I used a combination of dawn scrubbing, wet sanding, and plastic polish to get them back where I wanted them and then sprayed clear coat to keep them looking good for a while. Cup Holder - There were a few areas that had me scratching my head when understanding the engineering on some of the components, but a cup holder? I think the user acceptance department was sound asleep during market adoption testing. I JB welded a GMC cup holder insert to a board and pushed it under the bench seat. It is very stable and works great. Marchal 750 - These things are crazy expensive... It took me a while to find some that I was willing to pay for. I had to swap out the harness in the front to get the fog light connections/relay. I havent ran the wiring for the rollbar lights yet, but will do that soon. Also I just got a cargo light to land both of the switches. Interior Lights - If I wasnt trying to get this back to stock, I would have went with a different interior light. I had to pull these lights apart fix the connectors/lens and put them back together. Very tedious work to get them functioning correctly. Mud Flaps/Splash Guards - I really like the look of the AMC logo'ed splash guards, but havent been able to find them. I was able to find NOS of the correct ones for the my Comanche. They are growing on me so I will probably keep them around I am still in search of the following: Passenger interior door panel - gray Factory brush guard Factory running boards
  11. Thanks. Not sure what happened there. I think it is fixed now.
  12. 🤔 I don't think I trust myself enough to do that.
  13. * cluster gauge update This is my favorite MJ upgrade, mainly because of the engine temp gauge. It was very easy once I had all the right parts. (temp sensor and oil pressure sensor) It took me a little while to figure out if I disconnected the transfer case odometer cable it would give me the slack to disconnect it from the back of the gauge. Everything else was straight forward as all the write-ups describe. I do have an automatic, so I had to cut the column shifter window. If you have a column shifter, make sure to take extra precaution that you don't damage the shifter cable when you initially remove the old cluster panel. Even though my truck is exempt in GA, I matched the mileage exact. Temp sensor: Well TU108 Oil Pressure Sensor: Duralast PS133
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