Keyav8r

I pulled mine from a late model Grand Cherokee. The door opening shapes are very similar and the weatherstrip is wider. It’s a little longer so you just cut to fit at the bottom. Fit is good starting at the “kick on the froward door jamb and working around. Sealed my MJ up well.

You’re right about that. I went down yesterday and opened the driver’s side door and no interior lighting came on. I must have a continuous power drain on the battery with the engine and all lights off. While I can’t drive it right now, at least I can charge the battery and test for a power drain one circuit at a time. May get my buddy to drive it around a little to circulate the fluids.

I’ll probably stick it out (pun intended) and keep the 5 speed at least for the near future. It just feels like a waste not being able to drive it since June and probably not again until September at the best.

I’m recovering from surgery for torn bicep in right shoulder and can’t drive my 5 speed MJ until therapy is done. Also have left shoulder feeling like future rotator cuff surgery. Yeah, if I’d known I’d live this long I would have taken better care of myself. Thinking the thing to do is go auto trans. Don’t want to consider a transmission swap as (a) I’ve heard it’s tedious and doesn’t always work out 100% correct, and (b) shoulder problems. So, thinking about trying to work out a trade for an equivalent MJ with auto trans. Anyone in the AL/West GA/NW FL/East MS area interested drop a PM and we can trade photos and discuss possibility. Mine is ‘91 Eliminator, AX-15, 4WD, very good interior and exterior, original drive train, 187K miles, 3rd owner. If this is the wrong forum, please move to correct.

Good luck with the new home and job! Spend all the time you can with your granddaughter. They tend to grow up faster than you can believe possible.

Note that you will need to relocate your windshield washer fluid reservoir to make room for the double diaphragm booster upgrade. Hornbrod used a late model reservoir installed in the fender well (you can see the fill cap in his photo). I got the reservoir from the same ‘96 XJ I got the double diaphragm booster from and located it on the passenger side firewall. One advantage of the XJ reservoir is that it has two pumps. I brought the wiring and tubing from the second pump up near the connections for the pump I’m using. If the first pump fails I’ll just switch the connections and keep on truckin’. BTW - after I had installed the used booster I found it was defective and bought a rebuilt unit. Considering all the extra work, it would have been a better move to go with new or rebuilt parts at the start of the project.

I pulled door weather stripping from a later model Grand Cherokee (don’t remember the year). It’s thicker in cross section and generally shaped the same. I started installing it in my Comanche at the front of the door opening (where the bends are), continued down the front and the did the upper front, top and back side of the door opening. I had to cut off a few inches t the bottom joint. It has worked well. Really cut down wind and road noise. I did have to shim one area with stick-on insulating foamwhere it had compressed a little. I do have to close the door a little more firmly but it’s worth the difference in sealing.

Hang in there, Don. Like you, I started smoking in the 60s (actually late 50s). Continued for over 20 years at 1 to 2 packs a day. Finally the wife and I quit at the same time. I had “quit” several times before that lasted a week or more, but always wound up with another pack in my pocket. We both quit cold turkey (there were no pills or patches back then) and both almost backslid but managed to quit one urge at a time. Basically, I lied to myself each time I wanted a smoke by telling myself I couldn’t have this one but I could have the next one. I still had a periodic urge for a couple of years, usually when I was drinking or just after a good meal. So, keep your guard up and lie to yourself if you have to.

Rest In Peace, Jim. You were an asset to the Comanche community. And a darn good story teller.

Our town has a natural gas utility and tried running municipal vehicles on it. Police vehicles were dual fuel but the new police SUVs are gasoline only. There wasn’t enough fuel cost savings to offset the maintenance cost and inconvenience.

That’s about 90 degrees out of position. The arm should be rotated to about 3:00 (on a clock face) or roughly horizontal pointing toward the differential. Disconnect the rod at the arm or the differential cover to relocate it. Don (Hornbrod) did a post on adjusting the arm on the valve shaft that really helped my rear braking. He may pop up a repost or direct you to it if you ask nicely.

If the ends touch there is a possibility the strap is too long and is not actually clamping the journal or the clamping force is reduced. Just make sure they are torqued correctly.

C-clamps are preferable to drilling and bolting. Or you can buy clamps for toppers and bed covers at a truck accessory store, Amazon or eBay. They generally have a lower profile, wider clamping area and protrude into the bed area less.

I also dyed my carpet with a fabric dye, same basic color. Removed, pressure washed with soap, rinsed well, sun dried, sprayed dye with a garden sprayer, sun dried, rinsed excess dye out, sun dried, re-installed. Color is good and more even than before. Did it on both the ‘88 and the ‘91. Yes, replacement carpet is available somewhat reasonably priced, but I’ve heard the fit is questionable. And, I like to do things myself and keep my truck as original as possible.

Truck locked? Could be B&E. Regardless, I can’t stand AHs who think they have the right to mess with other people’s stuff, especially their Comanches. Get a game camera to focus on the truck when you put the replacement permit in it.

It looks Iike the inner fender (?) was repaired and the replacement part was cut too short. That would account for the gap misalignment across the front of the hood as the header panel mounts to the fender structure. Is the fender on the driver side the aftermarket one? That could contribute to the overall alignment issue. On my ‘91 the fenders don’t align flush with the ends of the header panel. They stick out just a little on each side (maybe 1/16” to 3/32”) and I haven’t seen any evidence of front damage/repair on the truck. Your hood gap at the firewall looks fairly even, maybe a little wider on the driver’s side. Hard to tell with the perspective. If there is a difference side to side you might want to adjust that first and then bring the the other gaps to align with the hood. It looks like the fender/hood gap is wider on the passenger side than on the driver side. The collision that damaged the bumper mount could have misaligned the front clip. You may be able to pound/pull some of bumper mount out, but it might be easier and quicker to cut the damage out and weld in a plate aligned with the driver’s side. I’ll take a look at my truck to see if it gives me any better ideas on how to align your front clip.

IF I keep my foot out of my 2014 Ram 1500 (on cruise at 70), I can see mid to high 22 MPG. However, if I run with the traffic (75-80), it drops into the low to mid 21 MPG, sometimes dips into the high 20 range if I have some above 80 MPH mixed in. Around town (mix of Interstates and surface streets), it runs 17 - 19 MPG depending on the mix.

No comment on the eco-diesel, but love my Hemi! Gobs and gobs of power. 21-22 MPG highway at maybe a little above the limit. And 8 speed tranny that always has the right gear for the occcasion.

I’d say if you floored it, it would burn those slicks off in 7 seconds.

For a really good clue, read their Privacy policy. Shore sounds lack a good ole Amurican company to me.

Not to threadjack, but what did that grille come from? Probably wouldn’t look quite as good in black.

Spidertrax occasionally has “blems” at a lower price. No mechanical, strength or fit issues, but may have some appearance defect. 1.25” works if all your wheels are the same.

Don’t try to use staples, they’ll eventually pull out. You can get hog ring pliers at Harbor Freight for a few bucks and do the job so it will last.

On my ‘91 there is a tee in the main vacuum line from the reservoir at the firewall near the point the AC lines go through the firewall (also where the vacuum line passes through the firewall). There is a check valve in the connection. I’ve relocated my washer bottle (from a XJ) there to make room for the double diaphragm brake booster so the view in my photo is partially blocked. You can see that tee in your photo but it looks like there is nothing connected to it. Where does the vacuum line that is dangling there go? It look like it may have half of a check valve on the end. Your line is connected at the tee for the cruise control vacuum line.

You can go this way for Hellas.