Keyav8r

Pick up stainless steel nuts and washers. The chain home stores (Lowes, Home Depot, Ace, etc.) may have stainless fender washers that will give more washer diameter to better match the size of the bracket eye. I’d like to find a bracket in good condition like the one in your photo.

Thanks for the photos! That kind of what I’m wanting to do. You have five of the panels in each housing, right? The website says each panel produces 57 lumens, so you’re pushing a little under 300 lumens per taillight. I assume the lumen rating is in the “high” or brake/turn signal mode. I like the light output but want to have more complete coverage of the lens area, at least to the rear. i think I’ll contact Super Bright and ask if they have larger panels with higher lumens per panel. If not, I may just go with their 1157 equivalent bulbs at around 300-400 lumens per bulb.

Thanks! I’ll check that out tonight. Might be just the thing to do while I’ve got this taillight apart.

Pre ‘96 XJs and any MJs are really scarce in AL. Last MJ I saw was in the Mobile P&P but I was down there on a business trip and didn’t have many tools but got the Taillights and the tailgate part of the bedliner. Don - how can you tell what year the clocks are from? I’ve got a couple with differing back colors but no idea what year XJs I got them from.

Zomeizter - will be glad to see what you did and how it worked. I have a driver’s side taillight that I took apart, cleaned, sprayed some “Kentucky chrome” on the reflectors, and put back together. It is definitely brighter than the original light on the passenger side, but not as bright as I’d like. I’m in the process of doing the same to a spare passenger side taillight. I’ll swap them in when finished and maybe convert the originals to LED at some point.

$175.00 in Rock Auto gift certificates and a $75.00 Advance Auto gift certificate. I’ve already used one of them. My girls listen well. Oh, also the annual restock of socks and underwear.

Not sure who it was, but someone posted about enlarging one of the tab slots in the taillight housing to use later model XJ sockets. But I believe those also use the old style bulbs. i’m mainly Interested in using LED lamps and there seems to be a greater variety and supply (and maybe better pricing) in the new style “push-in” lamps. What I’d really like to do is build a multi-LED insert that covered the interior of the housing to light up like the taillights on some of the newer trucks but retain the original shape of the MJ taillight. That will probably have to wait until retirement gives me more time to experiment.

Is there a socket that will fit our taillights and front turn signal lights that accepts the new style lamps/bulbs (3157, for example)? If this has been answered before I missed or forgot it.

I’ve read the Bible. Our church reads through the Bible each year. I haven’t read anything that would make me doubt my belief in Christ or stop celebrating His birth.

Sent you a PM on brackets and taillight.

Good song, great message. We need less Black Friday commercialism and more celebration of the birth of our Savior.

Took her on her second road trip - Trussville to Scottsdoro to Birmingham to Trussville at 70 - 75 MPH most of the trip. Got 18.9 MPG. Not bad for a 91 truck with 180K on the clock.

Drove my bride’s Mazda6 last night and saw that both ABS and Traction Control warning lights were on. She said they had been on and off for a while but forgot to tell me about it. Decided to check it out before taking it to the stealer, er, dealer. Youtube has several posts on the subject and the general consensus seemed to be check the sensors. If they get dirty they can malfunction and throw a warning. i jacked the car up, pulled the wheels/tires and pulled the sensors. The front two were pretty dirty so I wiped them off, spun the disc while blowing air on the tone ring, and re-installed them. The rear sensors were clean but I gave them a precautionary wipe and put them back in. After torquing the wheels, I took her for a test drive and the warnings cleared within the first mile. Probably saved several hundred $ as the dealer would have replaced all the sensors and probably found something else add to the bill. If your DD has ABS, etc. and you get a warning light, save yourself some money and check/clean the sensors (after you check the fuse).

The story I heard is that they bought it at auction and are trying to flip it for big bucks. It might be worth that to someone, but they haven’t found that someone yet.

That’s a real bummer. Has any additional info been released?

Jealous doesn’t even start to define my feelings about this. Is that a restroom in the corner? Enjoy the luxury of elbow room to the max!

He does great work. I really like mine 👍

Closed cell foam I know, but mass loaded vinyl?

Slight thread jack! Minuit - does the Dynamat help much on the noise level? Back on topic - I cleaned and redyed my original carpet in the old ‘88 and in the ‘91. It turned out better in the ‘91, probably because it was in better shape than the ‘88 carpet. I’m happy with the fit and color, even though the color is not exactly right. Guess I have slightly lower standards than Don.

A little research on Rock Auto reveals the following: Track Bars: 86-90 use the same PN, 91-92 use a different PN, no info on the difference Right and Left Tie Rod Ends: 86-90 use the same PN, 91-92 use a different PN. All have 11/16”-18 threads Long Tie Rod (connects to Pitman Arm TRE): 86-90 use the same PN with 20mm threads, 91-92 use a different PN with 22mm threads Pitman Arm TRE: 86-90 use the same PN with 20mm threads. 91-92 use a different PN with 22mm threads I have all new parts for an 88 that I will compare to the parts on my 91 and post later (next weekend)

And, it’s a pain in the @$$ to get the oil pan off, especially on a 4WD. If you go that far, replace the oil pump while you’re in there. Might even consider replacing the main and rod bearings. A little more time and a few more bucks. It’s a J(ust) E(mpty) E(very) P(ocket), after all.

I have a new bar for an ‘88 and the “old” bar from my ‘91. I’ll check the tapers and post them in this thread. May be next weekend before I can do it. The shape and overall dimensions of the two appear to be the same, but the fit will tell the tale.

The leak could be the rear main seal. But, it could also be the valve cover. Or the distributor o-ring/gasket. Or the oil filter housing o-rings. Or ........... All engine oil leaks have a tendency to run to the back of the engine and the oil pan is the low point where they end up. You’ll just have to eliminate the possibilities one at a time. Start at the top (valve cover) and work your way down and back.

Different taper is what I was afraid the answer would be. Rats! Now I’ll have to buy another track bar and leave the new bar for the ‘88 on the shelf. I wonder if the tie rod end tapers changed also?

Does anyone know what is different between the ‘88 and the ‘91 track bars? Rock Auto shows different part numbers but the old bar from my ‘91 and the bar I bought for the ‘88 look the same. Is it the size if the taper on the joint end?