Keyav8r

🤔

What length cable do you need? I think I have one I bought for my ‘88 but didn’t use because I found one in a JY.

Looking at the Pull-a-Part websites for the 3 in Alabama, it’s been a while since I’ve seen any pre-96 XJs. I hope they haven’t all been scrapped and crushed.

Great looking truck! Looks like my 1500’s younger but bigger brother. Never was a Mopar type until I bought mine but don’t think I’ll ever own another brand of truck (except my MJ). However, if Jeep came out with a new Comanche .........

Don - get a couple of reliable local roofing companies to come out and inspect your roof. They’ll tell you if you have damage and will give you estimates of the cost for comparison with the insurance estimate. We had our roof replaced last year after several neighbors had theirs replaced due to wind and hail damage. I had two companies come out. One wanted me to sign an agreement that they would get the job if it was approved by the insurance company - told him adios. Other guy said we should be able to get it replaced and he would come back out and walk the roof again with the insurance company’s adjuster. He did and the insurer approved the job.

Glad you’re all safe, Don. We’re in Mobile and it looks like all the severe stuff is up near you. Just a lot of fog on the bay and river. Need to check in with my daughter again as she said earlier there was some threat in the B’ham area.

The ad copy sounds kinda ESLish. But the product looks good. May have to order a set.

OP has an 86 with a V8 swap. Novak may be the only option unless he has good fabricating skills and a friend in the AC business.

You don’t need to drop the tank to change the fuel pump. Make sure the fuel level is below the pump mounting, drop the driveshaft (to get more room to work), then remove the pump/sending unit by removing the lock ring. When you remove the lines push a bolt into it and tighten the hose clamps to stop leakage. Get a new lock ring and gasket when you re-install the pump/sending unit. This is much easier than dropping the tank, unless you need to change the vent fittings or clean the tank.

Little different scenario on my wife’s Mazda6. Traction and ABS lights went on and off for a while then just stayed on. Tried airing all the tires up with no success. Checked Youtube and found a video on cleaning the sensors at each wheel. Pulled the sensors out and , sure enough, they were all crudded up. Wiped them clean, blew off the “trigger” wheels or tone rings or whatever through the sensor holes, put the sensors back in, and all the lights went off. Youtube may not have been invented for us gearheads but it works pretty darn good!

I put WJ door seals in my 91. They fit pretty well but are 2” - 3” longer overall than XJ/MJ seals so you have to trim them at the bottom joint. It was initially a little harder to close the doors but I don’t notice it anymore. My driver side door had sagged pretty badly so I added a thicker shim (1/8”) at the bottom and it lines up and closes on the striker much easier. I noticed some daylight, where the seal takes an S above the striker, while looking through the gap on the passenger side. Used a long strip of paper at several points around the door (open door, put paper strip across the seal, close door, pull on paper - no drag/no seal) to determine where it was and wasn’t sealing. Added some thin, narrow weatherstrip with adhesive on both sides between the “lip” of the seal and the part that attaches to the doof frame. Haven’t road tested it yet but I can’t see any daylight through the gap and have drag on the paper strip where I didn’t before.

Semi-armored, low profile coolie hat.

I have 3 passenger side and 1 driver side spares. I’ve dis-assembled, cleaned, sprayed the “buckets” with “Kentucky Chrome” (chrome spray paint), and re-assembled the driver side spare and one of the passenger side spares. I plan to install them with LED bulbs in the near future for better visibility by other drivers. If I ever find another MJ in a JY, I’ll grab the taillights to save them from the crusher and/or for future trade goods. I’d like to trade a passenger side taillight for a driver side now so that I’d have a second set of spares.

I bought the “new” replacements for my ‘91. They are made of a different, thinner material. The fit around the flares has a gap like those posted above and the holes don’t line up very well. For my old ‘88 I got liners from a ‘96 XJ at the local Pull-a-Part that fit perfectly. If another ‘96 shows up there I plan to pull the liners (if they’re in good condition) and put them on the ‘91.

I did the ‘96 XJ master swap and made new lines. If I had used the WJ I would have tried to use the WJ flexible lines and re-flared the PV end.

Oh,yeah! Perfect car for my wife (😇), except for the $98K sticker.

I would think of it more as a repair and an upgrade on the yoke. But, far be it from me to discourage you from doing a tech topic on it 😇. The tricky part of the change is properly re-torquing the pinion yoke nut without increasing preload on the pinion bearings. I think someone has done a write-up on the process but, if not, it’s covered in the service manual (and probably on Youtube).

Thanks. May be a while before I get to it. Too many projects, too little time!

I had it apart once when I was working on the fuel,pump and sender and managed not to break anything. However, I might not be so fortunate next time. I may have to replace the pinion yoke when I do the seal if it is grooved and might as well upgrade. Do you have a good supplier for the kit?

I visited a fellow pilot once who was the administrative manager for a Jaguar dealership. As we were walking over to look at a pump station, we passed the service department and I asked him if the stories about Jaguar’s poor reliability were true. He said “Look for yourself. Every service bay is full and we have a service lot that has two more cars for each service bay”. He told me that Jaguar was notorious for electrical problems because they used Lucas Electric components and in England Lucas is known as “The House of Darkness”. Although they make some beautiful cars, I’ve easily been able to resist the urge to buy one.

Cruiser - It sure sounds healthy, especially considering it’s recorded by cell phone, and sure looks good. Are you painting it or buffing out the original paint? Johnj - all the car mags say the Miata is the best of the two, but the Fiat looks a little more “sports car” to me. I don’t believe I could handle either as a DD. As I get older I find it’s much easier to get down out of a pick-up than up out of a sports car.

7604593766616110 5% - E-mail said to share with others who work on cars or trucks. Anybody like that on here.

I buy batteries from the battery distributor that our company uses for truck and fork lift batteries. I’ve used them in the trucks I use for business, my wife’s car(s) and my MJ. Not sure of the brand, maybe Interstate. Never bought over one per vehicle and I’ve put 200-300K miles on the trucks between the OEM battery and one replacement. Don’t know what their warranty policy is like because I’ve always sold or traded the truck before the battery failed. Can’t remember pricing, but I have compared them with Advance, Autozone and Wally World in the past and found them competitive. This may not be an option for everyone, but it’s worked well for me.

Another MJ addiction victim! Welcome to the joy/misery. Nice straight looking truck.

Picked up a new plug at Autozone for $2.99. Looks like I have a pinion seal leaking, so that’s my next project. It’s literally always something. I believe this must be a form of mental illness because I enjoy it.