Keyav8r

It appears that you’re 🦄 hunting, Don.

Dzimm - Go to the ad, scroll down to and click on Vehicle History Report, click View Detailed History at the bottom, scroll down to Detailed Vehicle History and the last line (dated 03/31/2017) shows the title as Salvage. This section also shows when it was titled and when it was reported as an insurance loss.

Check the eBay posting. This is not a Chrysler prototype or concept. Per the eBay posting, it has a salvage title. It was totaled by the insurance company, sold at auction and two guys modified it. Look at the bed details and you’ll see these are two different “trucks” without even considering that the salvaged one is a hardtop and the concept is a soft top.

Somebody needs a good azz-whupping for building that foulness!

Driving lights problem solved! Pulled the air filter box to check the 10 pin connector for the front lighting harness and found it was good. Pulled the grill out to get to the driving light connectors and found one disconnected. It appears I didn’t seat the connector well enough to engage the clip. Connected it and still no lights. Then I noticed a single relay on the back side of radiator support, between it and the air filter box. I switched it out with another relay from my “pocket parts” stash and the lights came on when I flipped the switch. if I had checked the relay first I would have saved a lot of time and effort.

Well, you’ve got the cost of the extra machining operation on the crank, the labor cost to install the key, the cost of carrying the key in inventory, and the actual cost of the key. Probably saved $6 or $7 per car. Of course, if you add in the warranty cost to repair the damage caused by the crank pulley coming loose on a few cars it wipes out any “cost savings” for the whole production run. I assume that warranty costs aren’t included in the calculation of the CEO’s annual bonus for cutting production cost.

dasbulliwagen - Was the key left out of the pulley at assembly or is the crank pulley not keyed at all? If not keyed, is it a press or taper fit? Trying to understand why they would build a 700-800 HP engine without a secure drive for the supercharger and accessories!

Between Houston, Florida, Louisiana, The US Virgin Islands, other Carribean islands, Puerto Rico and California we have plenty of people to be praying for. Let’s just take a few minutes each day to pray for all these folks and to thank God for what we have.

A guy I worked with had his truck broken into while he was at the gym. Left his wallet in the truck because he didn’t trust the lockers. By the time he discovered the break-in and reported it to the police, the thieves had run up over $4,000 on his credit cards. Even though they were caught on security cameras at one place, they were not identified or arrested. He called the credit card company immediately and didn’t have to pay for the fraudulent charges, but still lost a watch and ring. D@&# thrives are everywhere! Glad the ladies are OK and the break-in was caught quickly enough to minimize the monetary loss.

I've had my blower box out twice working on AC. Pulled the dash completely both times. Some folks say you can get it out without removing the dash, but they must be a lot nimbler and smarter than me. Label any connectors you take apart and watch which screws and bolts go where when you take them out. Take special note where the cable bundles lay in and on the dash and firewall. If they get out of place the dash won't go back in correctly. Check and re-check every electrical and vacuum connector before you tilt the dash back into place. Some of them can/will work loose and you'll be dropping the dash again to find them (voice of experience).

As the title says - what LED bulbs are you using for tail, brake, turn, and back-up lights?

Here's my entry for Minuit's products Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thanks, Don & Schardein. Don, your photo came through as a Photobucket message to upgrade my account. If I PM my e-mail address, can you send it to me. Sounds like all I'll have to remove is the air filter box, correct?

Is that connector under the air filter box?

Instruments lights problem solved. With the gauge cluster out the headlight switch is accessible and I found one of the connectors not completely seated. Pressed it into place and magically I have instrument lights! Still don't have fog/driving lights. I have power to the accessory lights fuse in the relay box on the left fender well, but nothing at the lights. Connectors seem to be secure so I think the problem is somewhere in the harness. I'll have to pull the header panel to investigate further but will do that later. I can drive the truck without those lights. Tracing the wiring is a little troublesome as there are sheets that are referenced which are missing from my Jeep electrical manual and my Jeep wiring diagrams book. Doesn't appear that they were removed as there's no evidence they were ever there. Primary problem solved, secondary can wait.

Dzimm - thanks for the response. I've checked at the fuse and have no power there so I know I'm not getting power to the cluster. I plan to drop the lower part of the dash tomorrow to see if I can get a hand in to check connections at the headlight switch. If I don't find anything loose at the switch, I'll just drive without instrument lights for a while before I pull the dash again. It's just a PITA. Looks like there's an Ignition point near the instrument light fuse. I may try to jumper power over with an inline fuse to see if I get lights that way. Long range plan is to dig into the wiring diagram and find the power feed to the fuse and track back from there. I'm just tired of working on the truck and will do without the lights in order to drive it for a while. Just hoping someone had the silver bullet.

Praying for everyone that's been through Harvey and all those waiting for Irma's arrival. Be safe, FL brothers!

Come on, guys! Somebody has to have an idea.

All I have is the dash cover but I believe there was a glove box cover. There are places on the my glove box door where Velcro pieces were at one time.

1991 Eliminator - Pulled the dash to change my AC evaporator. After reinstalling it, I have no gauge cluster lights (driving/fog lights don't work either but that may be a separate issue). Checked the fuse (#8 in the fuse box, 5 amp), it was good but put another good one in just in case. The fuse is tight in the box and contacts are clean. Rotated light switch knob fully in both directions with parking lights on and with headlights on low and high with no result. Also noticed my ash tray courtesy light doesn't work. Pulled the gauge cluster back out to check the connector and found it was securely seated as it was when I put the cluster in the dash. I checked and the connector will only fit one way. Interior lights, under dash courtesy lights, mirror courtesy lights, headlights, tail lights, brake lights, parking lights, back-up lights, flashers, clock, radio, and cigar lighter all work and the parking brake warning light works. Didn't notice if the upshift light worked or not. Put my meter on the fuse connectors and I don't have 12 V to either side with headlight switch in any position. Is it safe to assume the power for the gauge cluster lights comes from the headlight switch? I can't see the back side of the headlight switch, even with a mirror, to see if there is a loose connector. Any ideas what to look for and/or how to fix this? If it involves pulling the dash again I'll probably do without gauge cluster lights for a while. However, I do now have AC!

If it doesn't work, send it to Minuit for repair. I got mine from him and like it better than the newer radio that was in the truck when I bought it. And, now I can play my cassette tape collection.

There is/was a write-up on making your own headlight relay harness or you can buy one on eBay. I'm with johnj on this being the No. 1 upgrade you should for your MJ. It will improve the OEM headlight brightness, possibly prevent a fire, extend the life of your headlight switch and prepare for a headlight upgrade - all in one upgrade project.

Thanks, Don. Didn't know about them. I may wander over that way next time I work with our Madison office.

I've looked at every Jeep at Pull-A-Parts in Birmingham and Montgomery every time I've been there and never seen any of those. Have not seen a pre-1990 XJ in any of the yards around here in more than a year. I've only seen 2 MJs in the local yard in the past 4 years. We're running out of parts cars!

Rats, I was hoping you'd found the silver bullet! Being a bit technologically challenged, I may have to get one of my grandchildren to work through editing process for me. If I (they) find a solution, I'll post it up.