Keyav8r

Hooray! The good guys finally won one against the evil insurance companies! Glad to hear it came out well for you, Eagle.

Welcome to the Addiction, er, I mean the Forum!

OS had some good moments. They just couldn't string enough of them together to make good play series. I think Clemson is going to give us a better game than Huskies did. But, I believe #27 and 5 out of 8 will happen. ROLL TIDE ROLL!

Well, if you turned them all loose, made a few bucks, and are okay with it, I guess it's a good thing. Don't be a stranger around here, we need the wisdom and the jokes.

It's apparently made in Korea and, from the information in the ad copy and videos, looks like it may be a pretty good product.

So, the module is probably a "filter" or rectifier to reduce or eliminate the DC ripple effect caused by PWM devices. Inquiring mind satisfied for now. Merry Christmas to one and all!

Interesting. Any explanation for the on-off-on-off..... phenomenon?

Just don't understand why keeping a spare key in your wallet isn't choice #1. Been carrying one for my DD/work vehicles for over 25 years, used them multiple times and never broke a glass, used a slim jim or jacked up a door frame to use a coat hanger. Although, I am adept with the coat hanger on other's vehicles (only at their request when they get frustrated in their attempts). Edit - Just realized that some may see the other methods as a challenge or as the quest for the Holy Grail of the Comanche realm.

The Amazon ad for the new Trucklites also shows an anti-flicker module that appears to be a PWM device. Pulse Width Modulation is the basis of most AC variable speed drives (in industrial applications). Is flicker really a problem with LED headlights? What is the cause of the flicker? Is the DC current from the alternator not rectified sufficiently? Does it still have some inherent waveform or modulation? Does the module further "flatten" the DC power? Inquiring minds want to know!

Move South. if you go far enough it will totally clear up. Never had an ignition cylinder freeze up. Had a door lock do it once. Poured on a little hot water and everything worked.

Looking for one of these in print, CD/DVD, digital via e-mail - whatever is out there.

Personally don't like the wheels but still think it's a good buy for you if you like them. You could probably sell either the wheels or the tires for $400 and break even on the deal. Or, sell both and make $400.

New AC components and, hopefully, a working fuel gauge.

What they are talking about on the alternator is the amount of belt contact or wrap on the pulley, not the belt tension. The wrap on the compressor pulley looks a little marginal also, but better than the alternator. Edit - corrected spelling. Getting tired of Apple putting in words it thinks I want to use.

Well, at least the AC is installed so that the condensate will drain outside. Can anyone make out the state on the plate?

I like johnj's idea. Let the woman who hit you deal with her insurance company. You shouldn't have to waste your time and effort on it. Hmm, isn't your neck feeling a little tweaked? Sometimes the symptoms of an injury are delayed. And, all this stress must be causing anxiety and sleep problems. Sounds like a medical claim to me.

They usually are.

I used a fine polishing compound to clean up all my emblems (Comanche, 4X4, etc.) then masked off the shiny parts and sprayed the rest satin black. Turned out pretty good. Used 3M double side trim tape to put them back on. AMC86Kid - PM me about the Comanche emblem.

I don't think we have to worry about being overrun with millennials on the forums (I'm speaking of the mentality, not the age group as a whole). Anyone who willingly obtains a MJ and takes on the burden of building it up and keeping it running is not likely to be the type who would sabotage someone's vehicle. They're the same kind of crazy as we "more experienced" types are. My personal opinion is that this millennial mentality is the result of the many "parents" now who are more concerned with being their child's friend than with the child's development as a functioning person. They refuse to accept their responsibility to instil a sense of right and wrong and the concept of personal responsibility in their sons and daughters. These young "adults" have grown up thinking that you don't have to excel or even try hard because the world owes you everything you may want. And, our once great education system has been severely damaged by those "educators" who are more concerned with social skill development, political correctness, and not being held accountable for their failure to educate young people. Maybe I'm sounding like an Olde Phart and maybe that's because I are one, but it's a fact that we value the things we've worked for more than the things that are just handed to us. That being said, I'm sorry to hear about your truck and the chicken$#!& way in which you lost it, Bo. Glad you've found a good replacement. Illegitimati non carborundum.

True, in hg can also be a pressure measurement. But, since I sell pumps (liquids), blowers and compressors (gas pumps), and vacuum pumps (gases) I'm accustomed to using PSIG or feet of water for positive (above atmospheric) pressure and in hg for negative pressures.

hg in (inches of mercury) is a vacuum measurement. Did the gauge also have a PSI range on the face? If it has both ranges, at 0 PSI you would be reading no pressure and no vacuum. The ballast resistor is in the fuel pump power circuit and, being broken, may have prevented fuel pump operation. I'm assuming you rechecked the fuel pressure after you jumped out the broken resistor. If you still had no pressure reading you may not be getting the fuel pressure through the test rig (or the gauge could be bad - those loaner tools get treated pretty roughly sometimes). Your truck would not have run for a minute without pressure to the injectors. The fitting on the fuel rail is a Schraeder (sic?) valve (as used on tire valve stems). The center pin has to be depressed to open the valve and allow the pressure to be read. It may be that the kit's GM coupling did not open the valve. A refrigeration gauge hose fitting will open the valve as I have one with a gauge adapter on one end that works well. As a test, find a tool that you can use to depress the center pin in the fuel rail valve. Put on some goggles or safety glasses and gloves, have someone start and run the fruck for a few minutes and then shut it down. Immediately open the valve briefly and see if fuel squirts out. Be very careful getting ready to dothis as your hands will be in close proximity to the fan and the belt drive. If you have fuel pressure at that point get a better test kit to read the actual pressure. And be sure to do this outdoors, wear safety glasses or goggles and gloves. You can wrap a shop towel around the tool and valve to keep fuel from spraying everywhere.

My '91 MJ has the connector for the washer bottle fluid level. I have it connected to an XJ bottle that's mounted on the passenger side firewall (moved it there to make room for a future booster upgrade). Don't remember seeing two pump connectors. Since the XJ bottle has two pumps, I ran wires and a hose from the second pump to the point where the primary pump is connected. So, if the first one dies all that's necessary is to connect the wiring and hose from the second pump and it's ready to squirt. I think Don did the same with his "hidden in the fender" XJ bottle. Thought about doing the in the fender thing but the firewall mount was easier. Can't do the firewall mount on Renix models as the pressure bottle for the coolant system is mounted there, so the in the fender mod works better

As an old machinist I can't recommend the center punch and RTV method. Generally doesn't work well or long, specially with thin wall parts. Look into Speedi-Sleeves first. They are thin wall sleeves that are used to repair worn seal surfaces. There may be a size (or possibly two sizes) that would fill that space under the seal runner. You'll need to use micrometers or good digital calipers to check the shaft OD and the seal runner ID to determine if there is a Speedi-Sleeve that will work for you. They may be sold under a different name in the frozen North (as we "Alabamians" think of Canada) but you should be able to find them at an industrial bearing supply house or on the internet.

Can't speak for DirtyComanche, but my guess is that cable actuation is a no go in BC, Canada due to the potential for freezing up and inability to engage/disengage. I had the parking brake cables on my '05 Silverado freeze up twice down here in Alabama. Truck didn't move quite as well with the rear brakes locked.

What year model MJ or XJ did the full gauge cluster come from? If it is from an HO year model, that's the reason it's reading backwards. Did the fuel gauge in the dummy cluster work correctly? Try swapping in a gauge from a pre-91 XJ or MJ and it should work correctly. If someone has the PN for the Renix gauge I'll see if one of the gauges I have will work. If your friend just swapped in a new pump it would have no effect on the reading as the sending unit for the gauge is separate from the pump (but mounted on the same bracket).