comanchedude

Looks good Don’t fool with a "band Aid" fix on the drive shaft just get it re-tube to the right length I had mine done and it was only $70.00 that’s new tube that was much thicker and balanced.

I don’t know why everyone assumes the cv shafts are week? I am referring to the ZJ shafts; they look to be as strong as or stronger than the u-joint shafts and offer smooth operation. Unless I read manufacture specs that showed they were weaker by some margin I will assume they are same strength or stronger. One of my wheeling buddy’s runs them in his XJ after blowing two 760 joint shafts and has not blown one cv shaft yet so I think they are a good option/upgrade He got new boots at Oreillys auto parts they ran $8.00 each. I plan to pick up a couple soon and run them myself.

Yes: I have relocated the alternator on my Comanche to the location of the A/C I took the alternator bracket of a 1990 2.5 engine and that bracket fits right on the 4.L now you can use the 4cy alternator or modify the top mount ear of the hi amp unit thats what I did this due to clock position of the mounting ear. Now I used the 4cyl water pump pulley also and I don’t run the mechanical fan or its bracket. I run duel electric factory fans. Use the 4cy belt (1990 2.5) and I did have to trim about a 1/4 inch from the aluminum idle pulley mounting boss for belt alignment. All in all it’s very simple and I have run that setup for over 2 years now with no issues. That is a simple way to relocate with factory parts. And its looks factory. Tom

:rotf:

As I read it (it sits on a cut blazer frame )..says its just a chevy blazer with a Comanche body bolted to it ..$3500.00 :nuts:

I don't think you need the 3row..but ifyou have the money to spend it will just be a plus But I have a two row (all metal) and i have never had any heat issues soyou don't need the 3 row

You know that AMC20 setup must have proven very strong in development testing? I mean they used it in the Hummer for the military and it seems to have proven itself. So for that application it must have been the right unit for the designed capabilities of the H1.(which are very respectable) That I think gives the AMC20 a hi rating. Yes I am a diehard American Motors guy :)

Locked is the front and rear drive shafts are locked together at the same speed all the time. And the front and rear shafts must always be able to spin at the same speed or you get binding that will break stuff. Off road (dirt) or traction compromised surfaces allow the wheels to slip and maintain the drive shaft harmony. Unlocked means that the front a rear drive shafts are running through a differential just like and open axel (you know one wheel can spin faster that the other) and that allows the them to run at different speeds, this comes into play on dry pavement because the tires grip well on the road and won't slip, so the transfer case has to be able to adjust shaft speeds front and rear. If you do pavement with it locked it will bind up the shafts and transfer case and break stuff

Have one in my MJ and its locked (Lockrite) Mine looks better than the other pick ;)

Well, for the price you prolly got the standard run of the mill unit that will most likley do you just fine. (alum/plastic) There was a post on here that..here it is this company states there units are all metal so that’s better that the plastic tanks you get local 128.00 shipped hell thats a deal my Comanche brother http://www.radiatorbarn.com

A chevy guy answer for everything :roll:

Wow you one old dude, he he (take that in a respectful way) I second your opinion there is no oil pressure issues with any AMC engine. Except the PSI rating you get, maybe cold but "and I’m not even close to your age" but have had many Jeeps,Javelins,Hornets,and even a Gremlin once. But the 6cyls I have usually run 25-40 psi at temp every version but I did have a 1980 AMX 258 that would keep 40psi at idle but that could have just been the factory gauge cheating so it does happen.

First Like Alex alluded to, you need to test the oil pressure with another sender or you can temporally install a mechanical gauge to test for comparison as you may have a compromised reading Also if you get 10psi per thousand rpm your ok If your engine was starving for oil you would hear the rockers and lifters clacking. Its common for people to get all hung up on oil pressure and think it needs to be a high number but the facts are you just need to meet the 10psi per 1k of rpm and your golden. As for the blanked statement "like 45-50psi at 55mph when at like 200k miles and up" That is not what I have seen and you would see on the 90% and I have owned a few dozen Jeeps over the year’s .if you had a 200k oil pump it would be ready for replacement and prolly just meet the 10psi per 1k rule. most "6cyl" engines I have had run 25-40psi at temp depending of course on rpm and I think if you took a poll those are the numbers you would see.

Great pics wish we had found you guys sooner in the day! We had camera issues but we did get a video at the quarry and a couple pics

Yup It will be muddy,wet and cold.. I will have just one buddy making the trip he has an XJ We will be staying In town Friday night so we will be there at open Satuday If this is as big a group as it sounds it should be a really good time

I will be there Saturday with two jeepin buddies :D

That would be a correct statment. and is what should be used in the front wheel locations. In a drive shaft application it’s usually a greasable unit for long life, and really for most rigs you should not expect to break many if any in the driveshaft? But if you have stock gears and big tires that could put a big strain on the driveshaft I guess?

You left off Iridium Plugs These are basically life time plug well maybe not in a Jeep 4.L but they should run an honest 100k or better. In a engine that in good working order of course sure they cost 2 to 3 times as much depending were you buy but last 5x as long on average and give over 90% of the performance long into its life, standard plugs (Non plat or irid) start losing performance in as little as 10k miles and use much more voltage to spark. The OEM-recommended replacement interval for iridium plugs is 120,000 miles. 8) You get that performance with much less demand on your ignition system. Have a set with 30K and they look brand new as far as side wire and center electrode condition. Anyway that’s what I buy

If I understand your logic, if you keep the angle the same as stock as you lift the jeep you will increase the operating angel of the U-joints and if lifted enough you will exceed their range to operate ,other than that I agree with you but when lifting you would have to make a small adjustment to reduce the operating angle. I did SOA “net 7.5” and adjusted the rear pinion angle by watching the u-joint operating angle and keep the pinion as low as possible but still having an acceptable u-joint operating angle On my SB Comanche my rear pinion angle is about 5deg up and that has worked well for me no vibes and u-joints (In service for a year before soa ) are still going strong 1.5 year after SOA. I have long Rocky Road spring perch and spun the overload spring long end forward. Have minimal spring wrap. hope that helps

That is funny

Looks cool Could you take the factory bed and just modify that? Add reinforcements were needed ect..

Well some on the site may "rib you", I understand you bought something that gets installed and you expected some paperwork that at the very least tells you to remove the old springs and install the new spring in reverse. But any time a company sells to the general public they should include detailed instructions that cover the removal, install and all safety aspects of the install as well as all tools you will need to do the job. (Not everyone is a Know it all) and would like to have instructions just like you You should be disappointed and don’t let others tell you different. Call rustys and ask them why you didn’t get them. I bet they say, they should be with the kit or direct you to an online PDF.

I agree the reason is to maintain control of the Jeep at hi speed.

and i observed that the gas pressure release valve don't hold pressure My thoughts If I understand you have tested the fuel pressure bleed off and your saying that after the truck is off for any length of time you no longer have any pressure in the fuel line. If that’s what your saying that would indicate the fuel pump is not holding pressure and that can cause long crank time as it fills the fuel line back up. This is a function of a valve in the pump. The pump itself may be just fine but you will have the long crank time due to empty fuel line on start up. As for the "full" tank improvement, that would be due to the level of gas in the tank being higher than the fuel line on the frame and keeping it from draining back. But when the gas level in the yank drops to level or below it will drain back? There is a test for this in the repair books to test if the fuel system is holding pressure and the side affect is longer than normal crank/start time when the valve in the pump has failed. This sounds like what you may have.

Welcome