Renegade

I don't know about all the technical stuff, but my TJ had a spacer on when I bought it. Just out of curiosity I removed it & I couldn't believe the difference. The 2.5 lost a noticeable amount of pull at hiway speed. I also tried a 4.0 throttle body on it. Gained a bunch on top but lost torque on the low end. Best I found was the stock TB with the TBS installed. BTW, I had a cold air intake & Magnaflow exhaust.

Sounds like you need to get it back to the transmission shop. I'd take a close look at the torque convertor. I had one that was wore out & it would shudder BADLY when I put too much load on it. I had to drive it like there was an egg on the gas pedal. Any hard acceleration & it let go. Finally the vains shattered completely & there it sat. Unfortunately by this time the trans was full of shrapnel as well. Good thing turbo 350's are a dime-a-dozen :brows:

OK I've been reading the 10.5 vs 12.5 debate. Since I have 11.5s(32's) does that mean I have the best of both worlds or "middle of the road, not really good for anything" size? :D :popcorn:

My dad is a 3rd generation dairy farmer & I drive a milk truck for a living. That was hilarious :D

Agreed. My mount is flexing just as bad as the trackbar. The bar is only supposed to work with up to 4" of lift, & I have more like 6, so a drop bracket/crossbrace is in order along with the RE extreme duty trackbar.(have this stuff on my TJ & it's awesome). Problem is then I also need a drop pitman arm & steering box brace as well as another alignment. There goes a good 500 bucks.....again :headpop:

I AGREE COMPLETELY! I just could not believe what I was seeing. Time to call R.E. again.

Anyone have a strength issue with a Rusty's adjustable bar? I was tracking down a loose steering condition(mostly due to a bad tierod end) & noticed the trackbar flexing BADLY as we see-sawed the steering wheel. I've always ran R.E. trackbars & NEVER see them bend or flex. Is that normal for the Rusty's unit? I don't see it causing a problem on-road, but how will it ever hold up to wheeling?

I've run NGK's in a lot of stuff with good results so i guess I'll grab a set of those. Thanx!

I was leaning toward a set of Bosch Platinums, but you are saying to stay AWAY from platinums, or is it only the NGK platinums? Also, I don't have a manual. Don't know the proper plug gap. Anyone know off the top of your head?

NO way I would trust the lifeblood of my engine to be held in by one of those. I've used them at work a few times & if they aren't situated exactly right they will pop right out with a slight nudge. Not only that, I don't see how it would seal tightly into the threaded hole. Surely oil would seep past.

I'm sure I'll get 10 different answers from 10 different people, but here goes. I think I need to throw in some new plugs. What's generally considered to be a good replacement?('89 4.0) I'm very careful about this since I've had other jeep motors throw fits if I ran anything other than the OEM recommended plug. I've also seen definite improvements(like switching to Splitfires in my Harley. WOW!). Watcha runnin'?

Mine did the same thing. Since it also sat much lower than the rear I popped for some ACOS. They leveled it side to side & also gave me the extra lift to level it front to rear.

Like he said, there is no bolt head. It's a stud that (used to be) welded into the fender. Rip it out & install a Rusty's intake tube & filter(about 60 bucks). Once the old filter box is out, you could reweld the stud in place.

Somebody needs to drop this guy in the middle of Baghdad http://www.ktvu.com/news/15240235/detail.html

I should have mentioned I went with the Super Ride lowers with the rubber joints because my ride is on-road only. Wanted to smooth out some of those vibes & flex wasn't a concern for me.