Joop

This thread leally need an update, and %?«* to photobucket! I just parked my jeep after 6520km all around the northern parts of norway, sweden and finland. Now it has 3" lift, new 33"rubber on my old chrome wheels, new axels amc20 rear with Ected lsd/locker and onepiece d30 front with truetrack, both 4,88. Roof top tent fitted on a nice homemade bed top. And bushwacker flares. Also had my first meet with another CC member, Roar, who has a build thread somewhere her. If you read this, please post some pictures! By posting this from my phone i hope to give myself a kick in the @@s so i bother to pick up my laptop and post some more tomorrow!

I used biltema's o ring kit to fix some leaking injectors once. It wasnt a perfect fit but it worked. I think you should be able to find a biltema in sweden....

Spraybottle with a mixture of soap and wather. Spray it over every pipe, hose and component. Both with the system off and running. Leaks will create bubbles. Sniffers and uv light will never pinpoint the exact leakagepoint like soapbubbles can! Just look closely and take your time...

Hvordan går det med comanchen? Nice to see another norwegian here. Where do you live, far up north? Thats what facebook and the postal code on the picture from rockauto says... I'm planning a camping trip up to kirkenes this summer and can bring some parts from my pile if you need anything!

Bought my roof top tent a couple of weeks ago. Made a temporary setup with some 2-4 and jackstraps over the bedrail. Only sleept in it one night, planning to take a short trip during easter. Also working on a more permanent installation. Will have that ready by summer then I'm heading out there for weeks of fishing, camping and exploring! My goal is to ship the rig over to iceland and spend a couple of weeks there, but it doesnt look like it will be this summer. Think it the same as the tepui tents just sold under a different name.

I use amber bulbs in the backup lights wired as turn signals and a cheap clear light on the bumper wired as backup light and additional turn signals above the front wheels. The fog light issue i have never heard about before, and my mj passed inspection without them. No i don't live in spain but EU should in theory follow the same standard regulations when it comes to motorized veicles. So i just want to warn you, do your research well and see if you can get in touch with some local jeep or classic/muscle car club, they usually know the rules about importing US cars pretty well. There might be rules about lift, tires, engine swaps etc, but there might also be an exception for all thoose rules for foreigners bringing their own car, or cars older than 30 years! I remember a US citizen bringing his mildly buildt jeep to norway a couple of years ago who had to give up and ship it back because the paperwork to license a modified veicle was just unbelievable!

O2 sensor! A poor connection or the sensor is just about to give up. Unplug it an see if its driveable then. It will still have poor idle but you should be able to drive it but mpg would be way off... O2 sensors is about the only thing that will give problems in repeating cycles on a renix. Its the closed vs open loop cycle. If it works just fine when cold or when you floor it at high rpm thats even more hints its the O2 sensor.

Eagle, just to clear things up. The whole point by doing my procedure is you don't trip the plunger. Just follow the brakelines on an MJ and imagine how the brake pressure goes and you will see how it will work. In normal operation brake pressure goes out the nose of the block, to the load sensing valve, via the T coupler from the bypass line and out to the wheels. That means the same pressure will also act backwards towards the distribution block through the bypass line, but it has nowhere to go since it end up between the two o-rings you mention. Air trapped here will stay here forever and thats kinda the whole reason behind this discussion. By loosening the nut under the block you will backflush the bypass line, rear to front, using the reduced brake pressure from after the load valve.

The fsm bleeding procedure is unnessecary tricky. Do a regular bleed on the rear brakes, then loosen the nut on the bypass line under the distribution block and bleed that line, this will push the air the shortest way out and not into the brake cylinders. Then do another one on the rear brakes again just to be shure.

What we use on many formula offroad rigs is just regular vented front disk from whatever make and model your axles are, machined down into one layer solid disks. Typicaly with volvo 850 rear calipers or any other dual side piston, non sliding caliper. Do this on all four corners and it give plenty stopping power for a few dollars for most offroad/4x4 scenarios. Much cheaper than the typical wilwood alternative. Calipers and pads are in stock at any parts store and disks just doesnt breake that often, you could probably run them untill you retire and still have miles left.

Does anyone remember the size and lenght of the three bolts that holds the front wheel hubs? Just realized i have a desperate need to replace my u joints as soon as possible and i don't like the standard bolts, the heads get worn down to easy. Might as well get new bolts as well when when I'm at it.

Feels good to see someone else posting this, that means I'm not the only one here weird enough to enjoy x-files long after it went of the air.

Now that i have a working laptop its all so much easier! Pictures are a few months old, now the exterior is almost complete, need to weld up a custom rear bumper that goes well with the trimming i did. Also need a new exhaust and replace some rusty brake lines and worn out bushings. Then I'm ready for inspection and getting my license plates back. A week after these pictures where taken i had i up and running good enough to get temporary test driving plates and attended Hot August Nights, a weekend long celebration of everything on wheels made in USA, hosted by american car club of norway. Off course i was the only one with a Comanche! Reason for posing next to my alfa is because I once said to myself o would never have a red car or anything made in italy, well now i have two red cars both owned by fiat.... Also had to rewire the entire light system on the jeep. Common problem with owning an american car over here is the dealer do a hack-n-tap job rewiring it to EU light specs. And after a few years of use that just falls a part causing all kinds of bugs. Might as well start from scratch. Interiour still looks like $#!&, and I dond know if I care? But I will be more carefull to roll up my windows so the cat doesn sleep there every night.

Complete failure...

Just testing if i can post from my phone and if remember how it was done