comanchedude

strawberry

If all the suspension is good and tight. then rotate the tires to see if the problem goes away if so you have a tire that's out of balance, out of round, or damaged. the stabilizer will not stop DW. ( "death wobble") but it may help control it to some degree. As for MJ Junkie... a Jeep Comanche does not weigh enough to require 50psi tire pressure no mater what brand 35" tire you run. and its bad advise.

RA is just like any other parts supplier be it local or online. some items they are going to save you money some items not. I have used RA, Ebay,Amazon and local stores. you always have to shop around. it can at times save you tons. and on the closeouts you can score silly big sometimes.

yes when you install the seal there is a bead of sealent used and it will leave a small bead after you install the new seal

yes the 65 battery is longer requierd me to trim the lip flat on the battery tray on the engine side, that was the only mod , now its close to my altanator (i relocated it to top of engine)... so if you have a/c it could run into the compressor?

It a good idea to run the largest battery you can ,it will provide more reserve capacity ,as well as crank amps.. I run a group 65, its the largest that will fit in my MJ.

its not like its 1950.. for many years now the manufactuing abilities of USA,asia and mexico are on par with each other. I work in aerospace and we get engine rings that are made in china.and mexico that is what is spec. by the maufacture. the belief that US made parts are always better is not a standard and is really just perception in most cases..globally most stuff is the same..US companies have outsourced their technoligy for years so its no diffrent on old manufactuing stuff like auto parts. so don't get to worked up on were its made just get good price..I got RAYBESTOS from rock auto, the whole set for i think it was under $70.00 and they have been in service for over 5 years no problem and I wheel quite a bit. and one part number was mexico the other was US. unfoutunatly MOST stuff is from other countries,even our president...ha ha

YUUUP.. good point..

6.5 " lift springs in front, rear is soa stock leafs. 35" PitBull Rockers (radial)

If you ever rip off those front flares wheeling replace them with a pair of rear flares and it gets rid of the marker light holes. Looks good. I know..I know ....in time.

My 89 offroad MJ

spraying PB on the terminals of itself would not stop it from starting. Also the solvents in pb do evaporate in a short time so they do not pos a long term issue,the balance is just oil. so it would actually be fine to help remove corrosion from the metal parts your working on, its not an acid and it will not attack metals. ,the only thing to keep it off of or not over use it on, is rubber or plastic items. you should just get new parts if they had any amount of corrosion on them that you need to use a dremal to remove!., cap,rotor and wires are not expensive.

I like the way your thinking as far as the AMC v8 idea... I hope you stay with that thought and keep your AMC all AMC..after all the XJ and MJ are AMC ,not cryco..they were just bought by cryco.. I don't have any info to help you on the swap but I like it. Imay do the same some day

AMC has its own tranny bolt pattern... they sourced tourqflight trannys from cryco after 70 but with AMC bolt pattern, just like they used gm th400 trannys in Jeep..but yes with AMC bolt pattern. AMC V8 engines do not use cryco bolt pattern for the tranny.. and any AMC/Jeep was AMC when cryco bought them, so the AX15 was what AMC used and it would of course have the AMC bolt pattern, it has nothing to do with Cryco. the AW4 is also an AMC sourced tranny... not cryco.

when you apply gas , like "under load" you will loose vacuum that's the normal result of extended throttle... the vacuum tank only last so long.. you will always loose vacuum under acceleration..always. and the tank need to have a one way valve on it it that's been removed or is bad...it will not hold vacuum under acceleration.

just replace the parts do it right

dakota is DODGE... not a Jeep.no relation to the MJ NONE..

just get the 100 amp factory unit. it will power all the stuff you need...and its a drop in rock auto has them right now for $ 40.00 ACDELCO Part # 321352 {#10463035, 19135907} Reman; 100 Amps DELCO SERIES CS130; w/A/C [Wholesaler Closeout -

I agree! Rock Auto is a great source for parts, so is Amazon.com..and eBay sometimes,. as some have said not everything is cheaper with shipping but there are plenty of parts you can't get local for the price. they have outstanding replacement service and have paid return shipping on warranty parts for me . I really like rock auto and have been a customer for years

I have run brown dog poly (before they offered rubber) and they will vibrate the $#!& out of your rig, i don't recommend poly

big heavy , no power... I don't know why people do it other than to say they did it. met guy at off road show has the yellow MJ you see alot (very nice MJ) with the same engine and he admits it painfully heavy .. and is a big disadvantage off-road.(very nose heavy) but is cool if your into the oil burners and have deep pockets and don't do aggressive wheeling.

I don't like the engine choice..and them 6-pack shocks are off the hook expensive.

just don't get in deep water ...but if its a street rig its fine

Yup "smart advice", example is you buy a battery witj 6-7 year warranty 2-3 year free replacement and your set , had my duralast die right at 5 years and it cost 12 bucks to replace and i still retain the same warranty and it starts over, its 4 years old now and when it dies (they all die) it will only cost me the pro rate to replace instead of $100,plus.. and I will concur most battery's are Johnson Control.

I'm running the Iron Rock engine mounts and I like them, they don't vibrate your teeth out. http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=IROR&Product_Code=IR-SMMK&Category_Code=UP