Bornindesert

Awesome hornbrod! Went to eBay and ordered the 2 bolts. Thanks for the quick reply and needed info.

When I rebuilt my 2.5 I discovered both starter bolts had been previously buggered up and one had to be drilled out. They are not available through Mopar, RockAuto or local Autozone stores. Need a set, decent used or new. If anyone has found these online or can part with them from a trashed out 2.5 please let me know. Can trade parts or Paypal what you need to buy & ship. Thanks!

If you decide to tackle the exhaust yourself...you can find all of the Walker exhaust pn's on RockAuto and then shop the lowest prices between RockAuto and Amazon....free shipping sometimes get's you a better deal. I think my middle of the road CAT was around $90, free shipping from Amazon.Total parts was around $240 including new rubber isolators. Don't forget the flange gasket.Trickiest part is removing the old CAT from the down pipe. Two studs with nuts and two bolts / nuts hold the flange together. Heat them to Cherry and either let cool and break free or crack them when they are still hot. If the CATs been replaced already, the flange may separate easy...good luck with School!

JeepAir in Florida can fill any gaps you have in sourcing parts locally or on-line. Best advice I can give you is to just give them a call, My liquid line was not available anywhere and they knew exactly what I needed and shipped me the part...like $36 plus shipping or something like that. Good place for hard to find A/C parts and they know their stuff. From what I've read on this thread, you're getting all the right advice.

I use Tapatalk on my mobile to upload pics

Those are both molded hoses IIRC, meaning that they are OEM parts and the ends are sized to fit two different diameters. The bottom one is hard to find, the top one is still available on RockAuto. Going from memory so might have it mixed up.

The Factory R12 high/low side ports (I know also called them valves) are very similar to a tire valve typically also called Schrader valves. They are capped in your picture to keep clean and also help prevent slow leaks. When you convert to R134a the ports are more like quick disconnects and the low side (blue) is smaller than the high pressure side (red). They make R134a conversion kits that includes the new ports and screw onto the existing R12 ports on the compressor. The two systems are not compatible, you can't fill or mix R12 with R134a. Here's a Comanche compressor that's been converted to R134a.

From the picture - you are sticking with R12, not converting it over to R134a? Since you said you'd bring the freon, was wondering where you got the R12? Or maybe it's been converted over to R134a and the low side valve just looks like the old style. Just curious. Sucks about the oil, there's a plug on top of the compressor that you probably found after the fact. If you replace all those components, you can add oil to the dryer and the compressor before charging.

The HC 3" was not an option when I ordered Metic tons from Joe at General Springs. You should expect some lift over your stocker but may not quite get 'a bit OVER 3 inches' to match the front. That question aside, they are really sweet heavy duty springs and come with the Military Wrap. I thought they were a pretty good value for the buck. If your trying to nail 3-4" lift in the back, might be better choice to go HC. There's a JKS adjustable shackle, but they're not cheap. The Chevy drop shackle will probably be too much with the GS MTs. As in 6-7 inches total.

You are correct, there's no crush washer on the D30 on your 1988 axle. There's a torque range on the nut, which should be replaced anybtime its removed if you go by the book. The procedure is to apply incremental torque starting at a low enough value (200 ft lbs) and then measure the running torque of the pinion. Target running torque would be 15 in lbs. So, you'll need a smaller in-lb torque wrench that has a dial read out plus a hefty traditional torque wrench that handles up to 500 ft lbs. The procedure is to torque the pinion nut, measure running torque and repeat by increasing the pinion nut torque by 25 ft lbs until you see the running torque come up. After that, make smaller increments on the pinion nut until you get the 15 in lbs rotating. I don't have the spec in front if me, but you'll be looking to get your running torque with a range of about 275-350 ft lbs. Don't over torque, or you'll wipe out the threads on the nut. Also, you could measure the running torque before you back off the pinion nut, and use that value as a target for when you reassemble. Hope that helps, least get you started thinking about what you'll need. I made a tool to hold the yoke while torquing the nut.

I read about these U/LCAs somewhere on here and found them on Amazon. They're tight on the frame side so be prepared to get out the BFH, and I had to make some room on the lowers by removing the adjustment tabs. Best part was being able to set the caster and orientate the pinion to a proper angle.

Sounds like your ARC Manager could benefit from some of Randy's methods (he's the assistant trailer park supervisor on the Netflix Canadian series Trailer Park Boys) and not fall into the bad habits of Mr Lahey, who drinks like a fish and pesters the parks residents.

I have some 88 2.5l pics, not sure if that would help?

Nice work. Nothing like the satisfaction of doing it yourself and the ride has to be better with all new bushings. I bet it was a pretty heavy press getting those old ones out?

Thanks for the decal hook up mjben! My very first MJ looked just like the red one in yellowheaps thread over there, roll bar, tonneau cover and the Stripe! Brings back Very cool area, South Jersey Coast. You're a lucky guy living down in Brigantine Bay.