Jeep Driver

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-OEM-Mopar-HVAC-A-C-Heater-Control-Panel-55036664-For-86-96-Jeep-Cherokee/401898130644?fits=Model%3AComanche&epid=1524211275&hash=item5d92feccd4:g:BNMAAOSw72ddikBj

Pieces of what?

Those look like old Blazer brand from 20 years ago.

In a city that size of Dallas you certainly have an electronics repair store/shop. Drop it off in the morning and pick it up in the evening, pay your $30 and get on with life.

BTW and FWIW- One reason it's not done today is back then that ceiling box would be stuffed, and I mean stuffed with wire.......today 'stuffing the box' will get you a red tag, that is against code.

Perfectly normal. Neutral wire, white wire, is connected to the white wire of the light/fan. Black or white wire from the switch is connected to the black wire of the light/fan. You live in FL, that's the way houses were wired back in the 50s and 60s......maybe even in the early 70s. I've never seen an inspector look twice at that.......referring to remodels where most of the existing house was not effected by the addition or remodel. As you describe, would pass an inspection today. Code or not.

It's common, or it was, still is in some areas I suppose............ To run hot to the ceiling box, use one romex to the switch, hot comes in on black and back to the ceiling on white to complete the hot circuit. Your explanation of what you have seems rather convoluted........the common is always tied together. If someone switched the common rather than the hot leg.......just move the wires around in the box. No need to rewire. What you are accustomed to seeing is hot brought to the switch box, commons tied together, switch leg running to light box. More common today as the switch box is often used as a junction box with the hot running off to the next box in the wall.

'94 ZJ IIRC. No, don't mix, and once you get used to turning on CVs...............you'll not go back.

I will commend socomanche for bothering to look around, at least. Yes, to answer your question. I recently recommended Nissan Frontier springs to one of the low-riders here who did the drop-block routine. Another option would be to go SOA with a flat spring, you may end up with 3.5-4" of lift instead of 6-8'' of lift. What's the benefit? IDK, but at least you can center the wheel in the tub without worrying about the tire/wheel travel fore to aft.........that's such a line of BS anyway...........(Hell Creek's crap IIRC or Rusty's or....) Jeep people have been so conditioned to the "kit" mindset that.........well.........I just shrug anymore.

The arch is dramatically different the Ranger is spring over axle whereas the Comanche is spring under axle Just probably 3 and 1/2 to 5 inch difference in Arch

You could have walked into Autozone and walked out with two new CV shafts and had been on the road in 3 hours. If you are not a hard core rock bouncer type.......CVs are just fine. This option has been discussed here many times.

Make sure you get the bell too. And, grab the axles if available.

Moral of the story- Don't drink.

I'm not looking up your part number, just an example- 3 years worth by your schedule, doesn't get much cheaper. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Oil-Filter-Wix-57060-6-Pack-of-Engine-Oil-Filters/273623876286?fits=Model%3ACherokee|Make%3AJeep&epid=238410259&hash=item3fb54102be:g:n2oAAOSwg-tcIAf~

Go pull your plug wires on 1, 2, and 3.........see if it will run. It won't, and there's your answer. Spend your time and energy making money to buy a good compressor.

That's your answer. You unload the trans and noise stops......it's in the trans.

Grab it! Regardless of gearing.

Check the filler hose and make sure it's not kinked. What tank?

BTW.......it would be something like a constant 100cfm at 150psi for a large commercial blaster. Dry clean air..........rotary screw compressor is what you want. My little blaster works great for small parts, axle housings, frames............etc.......

First thing that comes to mind is the valving is wrong.........reed valve which is a one way valve. Also, condensation and oil contamination. Also, the remaining three cylinders.......the engine half won't run, won't produce enough power if it did run. Also, inefficient. Also, if it were that easy it would have been done. Also, cost prohibitive. My 60gal compressor runs a small blaster like this just fine- https://www.harborfreight.com/110-lbs-pressurized-abrasive-blaster-69724.html?cid=paid_google|*PLA+-+All+Products+-+Higher+Sales+Items|New+Products+-+(6)+Price+%24100-150|69724&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&mkwid=sJvgeLmmQ|pcrid|278961614564|pkw||pmt||pdv|c|slid||product|69724|&pgrid=59557298587&ptaid=aud-446108146723:pla-296487509509&pcid=1458484684&intent=Higher+Sale&gclid=Cj0KCQjwt5zsBRD8ARIsAJfI4Bg7u6jQVcPHDkQuQ6DmIp8A-Cbm6p8IY2nR10N5kmJ-liq7_kKvGJQaAh7cEALw_wcB

https://lesmor.imgur.com/all/#1

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Your bar should be as close to level as possible. You can modify your bar as I did mine or stubbies are available but pricey. https://shopspeedhouse.com/parts/bd-diesel/1032050.html