Jeep Driver

Something else that should be addressed here.............and I have not addressed this at all in any of my posts. If I were wealthy, I'd be putting my energy into a 69 Camaro and not an MJ. I cannot afford even a rustbucket Camaro, what I have is an MJ. It's not a matter of cheap and just make it work. This is about something else.

So far this guy is doing it right, I'm waiting to see what he uses for a radiator/fans.........waiting to see how he sets up his cooling system. I'm interested in the results.....watching. Hogan did his V8 swap, Novak radiator, complaint of leaks. These are the two I can point to that are not hacks. And what examples do you have? And no, I'm not interesting in anything 4.0........that's not the point.

You are dismissive. It's a $#!&ty character flaw. It's actually an act of passive aggression. And people b*@ch about me.

I measured some time ago, don't recall exactly but the 2.5 is something like 19w x 20h, fairly close to a standard V8 radiator. The new radiator will go inside/forward/within the support, that will gain me better than 2", maybe close to 3" and still be able to get a condenser in front. You are correct, steering box limits depth. With a custom radiator I can gain at least 1" in h and w.......maybe a little more in width. I've studied what others have done, I scour this site and other sites and vids and study parts pretty much on a daily basis. I've read just about every complaint and failure there is. My approach is to do the opposite of what everyone else is doing. Everyone keep putting the square peg in the round hole. Failure points- Used engines. Used parts. Junk yard parts. Cheap parts........particularly when it comes to Efans. Fail to set up fan/fans properly. Poor builds. Poorly executed builds. I intend to retain the space I have on the DS of the rad.........cold air intake. Am I arrogant? No, if I fail then I'll adjust and move on. I'm pretty good at problem solving, I'll figure it out as I go. My current 2.5 has never seen beyond 200 degrees, gauge is accurate. Fan cycles properly, engine takes 12.5 minutes to reach running temp before fan cycles first time. I posted a vid of the entire process here after another member accused me of misleading others, I was pissed and it showed, I took the vid down. I assure you my SBC will run consistently at 180. TBI not MPI, anywhere between 180 and 190 should be fine. I've read countless threads......so much so that I rarely go there anymore.....at NAXJA regarding overheating............jackwagons, none of them get anything right over there. Below is a properly set up radiator, Ron Davis, yes I would expect to pay $1000. HP Spal fans, nothing else, and yes, you'll pay for those too. Accessory drives, Vintage Air looks to put out a nice tight package. What I worry about is money and how I'm going to pay for what I want........making it all work is the least of it.

State your case.

Of all the things I have to worry about, that's is the least of it. Seriously.

You'll have a lot of displaced people in the center of the Carolinas, some people may have nowhere to go. Traffic......gas may be an issue....etc....... I'd stay to the west, partly why I mentioned that direction, then go across to MB.

Knoxville TN.

I'm looking for 174 but now I see I-74. Having been through those areas............ Don't know from where you are coming out of MI but- 75 south to Knoxville, 40 east to Asheville, 26 south to Lexington SC, 20 to Florence, 501 to Myrtle Beach. Most direct no BS way to go..........now if you want the scenic long way around........that's up to you.

I will build my own engine and trans mount, Xmember. What I've been waffling on is what engine/trans combination. Manual is a MUST!, I'm not giving up my stick. I don't like Novak or AA options.........not at all, particularly with the slaves. I'll have more options for radiators with the 2.5 rad support.........you 4.0 guys ought to look at that. As mentioned.........Sanderson huggers............non issue. I spoke with the performance rep at Rockland Standard today about the Tremec TR 6060 4X version today, pretty sure I'm going this route, pricey at $5700 but........ https://www.rsgear.com/products/off-road-truck-transmissions I found my bare block today, 1st Gen 350, 4 bolt, standard bore for $25. I'll pick it up on Monday. I stopped at a machine shop in another town to see if they had any blocks for sale, this one needs a line bore, spun bearing. I should have just picked it up but I wanted to make sure that the machine shop I deal with would line bore at a reasonable price.......$150, so I called the other shop and told them I'd come back on Monday. No LS, No adapters. No BS.

This is on it's way to me by Saturday. External pump. Fully adjustable gauge. https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-86-Jeep-Comanche-Fuel-Tank-sending-unit-assy-18-23-5-gallon-tank-52003652/232057535509

Two to three weeks ago? This subject keeps coming up......and coming up........and............

That's not good.

Have you tried turning the engine over by hand?

Below is a blank slate, an absolute b*@ch to create. Compound radius. You ain't even close at a custom shop..........not even.

My goal in posting this pic is to inspire others to do SOMETHING, not to do what I did, but something. I do for me what suits me and I don't care what others think. If I had the time and a junk yard at my disposal, I'd have cut out other tail light sections to see which could best be grafted in, an old Ford F100 (Ranger) comes to mind. I don't so............ I had several objectives- To eliminate the wrap-around tail light, with exception, I find nothing attractive about those of any kind on any make or model but particularly on the MJ. To replace with LEDs. To replace with anything that is readily available at a reasonable price. To make whatever I chose to be inconspicuous (small, unseen from the side view). I know what my truck will look like in the end.

Wow, what a mess.

My daily is a 15 Frontier. I measured the leafs some time back and the Frontier leafs appear to to be a bolt-in replacement for those who want to lower or go SOA. Spring is flat.......would likely give you the 2" drop rather than drop blocks. Just didn't want to cloud your build thread.

Nostalgia.

Do a search on YouTube South Main Auto Channel Eric goes through this and shows you the process of getting a plug out it takes a special tool and apparently it's a frequent problem on Ford V8

Jeeezzzzzzzzzz, come on now. Carb was used for dyno testing only, narrator clearly stated that owner intended to use TBI. Here, TBI-

I ordered, a week went by, called.......blablabla........another week went by.......was told they were on back order..........more time went by....was told by SD they would call Hellwig and get back to me........never got back to me. I called Hellwig direct, by afternoon they had it in a box with shipping label and tracking number.......BS ended. Since then, I order through Summit for example........I call manufacture direct now, no more BS.

https://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=18006&gclid=CjwKCAjwqZPrBRBnEiwAmNJsNognYEasVw2423uZfTpNt57q-917xnpBRL8Ado-ErEqlecNwvgxgiRoCciQQAvD_BwE There is the part, just don't order through SD.........jackasses. You can cut the thread down to shorten...........I did, I cut about 1" off.

Links are Hellwig adjustables for the front of an F250 or F350. Don't remember the part number but you look around you'll find it.

4-4.5"