Jeep Driver

Personal satisfaction. Wife and I like to take one night escapes when we can. By the time I get this truck done my son will be driving (and old enough) and we can leave him for a night while we get away. This truck will see a lot of back roads and small towns. Pigeon Forge has a few Cruise-ins every year. You'll find everything there from rat rods to muscle cars to muscle trucks to 4Xs to diesels to euro-trash........I'll fit right in. Bodywork and paint has taken a toll on me.........can't wait to get on the fun stuff. Interior is the next project and I'm still looking for a V8 and still undecided. LS engine is still being considered, I'm doing my homework.

You are assuming that is a Chrysler number. I had an 89 that had primarily AMC parts, stamped AMC. Also, some brackets and the like could have lasted well into 90......vendor stock. And how do you know that a part that came off a 92 had not been replaced by an AMC part from an earlier model or a NOS from AMC? That's likely an AMC number, not a Chrysler number.

The inside of my bed will never be seen nor used to haul anything. Tonneau cover. I'll likely go with the Downey and then later find a hard cover that I can cut to fit and have covered with black vinyl....ie.......'vinyl hardtop'. I really don't care what it looks like but it has to be clean for the black Raptor to stick. This brush makes quick work of it. You'll need a variable speed grinder, my Milwaukee grinders are just too fast, this elcheapo works OK @ 2000rpm. My '86 fuel sender came a while ago, now I need to determine which pump and regulator I'll use, probably Aeromotive. I got my final block sanding and priming done this weekend. Other than one little area I need to address, my bodywork is done. Ready to be wet sanded and painted.

When I look for any product, I look to buy the quality that I can afford. I posted earlier here that I bought a cheap battery just to get by while the truck sat, that I did not want to get good battery until the truck was ready for the road. Well, the temporary battery would not hold a charge for a week. I definitely wanted a dual purpose AGM. I read countless reviews, searched many other truck/car sites, compared prices, store brands vs name brands.....etc.....Optima is out of the question. I chose NorthStar. Online the NorthStar came with a 4 year warranty, for less money through Batteriesplus it came with a 5 year free replacement warranty. Plus I have a brick and mortar store that I can actually take it to. The difference in starting power is amazing. I made certain it was topped-off before I installed it.

16mm is .625 is 5/8" You'll need to get creative. Most mechanics/people are not creative. You'll need a hydraulic press. I'm not sure if 16mm is the inside dimension of the sleeve.....you measure the one you have. Maybe you can find a suitable shock with 16mm sleeves at both ends? I don't know if a 16mm sleeve will slip over the mount bolt? You can try or just measure, the threaded end is not the diameter of the mount/bolt, you'll need to remove a shock and measure the shoulder. Here is a spec list- https://www.my4by.com/bilstein-shock-specs Or press out all four bushings and replace with- https://www.summitracing.com/parts/exp-600001?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAiAuK3vBRBOEiwA1IMhuox7KLCrqXMQh9_9Enkd-nO2vrQmometb7kCX-k1_L67GqOjAHkS3hoC7IIQAvD_BwE Or press out and reuse your existing bushing from your old shocks. Dawn dish soap......lube.

My guess is- Carbon build up on valve stem caused it to stick open. Push rod came up out of it's seat in the tappet and rode the tappet lip/barrel up causing it to strike the rocker and causing the bend....something is going to give and fortunately it was the rod. There is no valve adjustment on these engines. You will not be able to test the valve stem run out without the correct tools......IOWs unless it's clearly bent you will not know if it's bent by just looking at it. Seals and springs are cheap.........can't imagine you putting this head back together without replacing. You need to have the deck checked.....if planed, the valve stem length needs to be reduced accordingly. A head shop will do this as a matter of routine. Valve guides need to be inspected and refurbished if necessary. Your valves, chambers, deck have not been cleaned. That head is not ready to be reinstalled. I've built several engines and replaced/serviced several heads. Heads always go the machine shop. I'm not an expert, I'm not a machinist, I trust those who are.

The head needs to go to a machine shop. New seals, new springs. You need a valve job. Or you'll be chasing another bent push rod.

It doesn't matter which wire goes where.

Yes.

You are just adding the plug to your wires. There is no other option.

https://www.injector.com/cart/pc/Air-Charge-Temperature-Sensor-Part-No-1814-12p65.htm https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Jeep-Cherokee-Comanche-Engine-Coolant-Temperature-Sensor-FS-36400-/362455196353

I've never done the 'black friday' thing. Usually what is offered is crap I'm not interested in anyway. Also, companies advertise - up to 50% off- and the only thing offered on their site is some obscure bolt or bracket or gimmick that no one wants. I've been looking at or for a Northstar group 78 AGM battery. Batteriesplus X2Power is a Northstar. Today while searching around an ad popped up for 20% off at Batterieplus. I got the battery for $270, has to be ordered and will be in next Friday. Code is CDP13175 I got this cheaper....even with paying tax........than anywhere on the web.

Wow! that's pretty clean. Good for you.

Here is an interesting vid, watch it. He states, metals in raw form are produced in "North America" meaning they buy the spring steel in bulk and likely from Mexico but the springs are actually formed and produced in US. This is how most most American manufacturing is handled now..........ie..........'global materials'. I will call Eaton next week just to see if they can produce a custom pair of coils for me.

You are the first to report this.......made in Mexico. Also, your pic.....you are also the first to report poor quality. Here, from original thread, you can clearly see USA stamped on the spring. Also- And- I specifically recall my conversation with Joe, he stated that these were indeed made in the US. Lastly, from their website- Why General Spring? Your choice of a leaf spring directly affects the ride quality and hauling capacity of your vehicle — as with any suspension component, it’s important to choose a reliable replacement part from a manufacturer you trust. Here’s why General Spring is your best choice in front and rear leaf springs for any model of vehicle: We work exclusively with manufacturers that are full members of the Spring Research Institute (SRI), a leading industry body that upholds exceptionally high standards for quality control. This means you can shop with confidence knowing you’re getting a product that’s made in North America and built to deliver the best performance possible. We store and ship items from locations all across the country, and visually inspect all parts before they are sent out to you, confirming that your order is correct and that the leaf spring itself is free from obvious defects or damage. As a result, we are able to offer an exclusive one-year warranty on all replacement leaf springs. Our products meet or exceed OEM specifications. We also have extensive in-house manufacturing and modification capabilities, so we can customize any stock leaf spring to your specifications. For example, on some truck leaf springs, we replace the stock clips with metal riveted clips that provide additional strength and a smoother ride. We’ve been around since 1965 and will continue to be there well into the future. Unlike big box stores, overseas suppliers or drop shippers, we are able to quickly respond to customer inquiries, special requests or warranty concerns. When it comes to automotive leaf springs, General Spring is a name you can trust. I know I'm a real PITA........but.......... Either these are made in the US or I was lied to and the US stamping is false or someone did not get what they thought they got. I'm a stickler for details.........it matters.

Not directly related......but......... There was some discussion here recently regarding a 4.0 to V8 swap and weight. I'm reluctant to get into any more discussion here but......... If anyone had bothered to look up the weights they'd have found that you can actually shave about 40 or more lbs by going to the V8. And likely more so with an aluminum block LS......if you can find one and afford to acquire one. In my case I'm going from 2.5 to V8, not an LS. I want my truck perfectly level. I'll have to decide on front springs, I'll do my homework. I'd like to rely less on the ACOS and more on the spring. Too bad OME does not make a 3.5" spring.......ACOS already has 1.25 built in before adjustments.

OME 930s gave me 2" and the rest with ACOS

Get the military wrap spring. Not because of the wrap but because they are higher quality. I first bought the standard spring from GS and ran it for a couple of years, OK spring but was not impressed. Glad I made the switch.

This is correct. I also got 3.5" and these springs do not settle down. T The military wrap springs are made in the US, the only MJ springs that are made in the US. No.

The brass fitting has a 'metered' orifice, it is plumbed directly to the TB base. Use 3/16 brake line and vacuum connectors. The vent tube to the rear goes directly to the air box or the carb hat. Those spacers appear to be nylon, could be ABS but looks like nylon. Nylon and ABS both have a melting point of 220 degrees, some nylons will melt at 250 degrees, but seeing that it came from ACE it is likely a low-end nylon. Either way, neither will survive, even at 210 degrees they will distort, a spike of 220-230 and they are gone. From your photo you have not a VC leak but oil saturation due to blow-by, extreme blow-by. Swapping a VC will not solve blow-by, your engine is worn out. The excessive crank case pressure has to go somewhere, it carries oil with it, when everything in the engine compartment is covered with oil........this is what blow-by looks like. Plumbing the tube to the air box will, in short order, saturate the air box. Plumbing the tube to the carb hat will saturate the TB, including the injector. Neither is good.

https://tippecanoe.craigslist.org/pts/d/linden-3-jeep-comanche-for-the-price-of/6984918448.html

https://bn.craigslist.org/wto/d/bloomington-4-nto-jeep-rims-with-caps/7011165603.html

Plastic VCs required shoulder bolts. Plastic VCs where prone to warping and cracking........ie.........the need for shoulder bolts. Cork gaskets split, leak...........ie...........the need for shoulder bolts. Aluminum VCs do not use shoulder bolts or spacers or Orings. Aluminum VCs require the blue Felpro gasket........that is if you don't want it to leak. Studded bolts are available anywhere if you want to mount brackets. If you do anything......grind down the nubs as I did, shown here, mates better with the Felpro, does not, will not, cannot leak.

New brake line today. NiCopp line is the S--t! Next up is the rear Wilwoods.