Jeep Driver

As to 'what works, what doesn't'. Someone suggested stickies, someone else suggested elsewhere that a forum be created for parts that work and ones that fail. I'm suggesting we have a general forum for what works, where anyone can post part numbers, products, tools, that just simply work.

If you've seen my build thread you know that I'm in the process of bodywork and paint. Back in the 80s I painted my Camaro, it turned out OK, I was a kid back then and I had little expectation of myself, that has changed. So, it's not my first go but this time it matters. I put it off for two reasons, dread and intimidation, times have changed, materials have changed, I want this one to be right or at least as right as I can get it. I've got a POS store brand gun, two of them, one I drilled out for primer, the other I used for base and clear. Right or wrong, I used lacquer based primer during the filler process, block sanding after each coat, more bodywork, more lacquer, more sanding......etc..... with the plan of doing a final coat or two of 2K primer. The primer gun does 'OK' with the lacquer but fails with 2K. I went to the supply store today to get some seam sealer and the owner had this 3M kit on the counter, I inquired about it, owner swore up and down that it was the best gun on the market. I left with my seam sealer. I got several miles down the road, turned around. Gotta tell ya, this cheap gun is the S---! $207.00 OTD and I'm in love with it. It may not be a $1000 Sata but it sure behaves like one. Consumes 13cfm @ 20psi, you could easily do a panel with a 30gal compressor. Zero, and I mean 0 fog, none. Tips are disposable or reusable, cup is lined, cap has build in strainer, cap and liner are disposable, clean up is a breeze, the gun itself sees no product, only the tip of the needle which gets wiped off. As you can see in pics, entire panel is wet, great build up, 2K lays out flat when dried. This is the best $200 I've spent in a long time! Even if you guys are going to do a driveway paint job...........really, even with this gun, a gal of 2K and a gal of single stage........you're looking at about $400 + sundries. And you'll get a professional looking job that will last longer than rattle cans. This gun does such a better job that I'm going to block everything I've done thus far and respray it, it's that good. BTW, primer tip, 2.0, is sold separately but is only $5.00

And even then..............

I've got a Sony from Walmart for $100. Bluetooth is excellent, does play CDs though, lighting can be lived with. I'll be looking for a good head unit in the distant future, last on list. I never listen to terrestrial radio nor CDs.........would really just love to have a simple BT unit.

Minuit, I don't' mean to hijack a thread here, but I have a parallel question- Will that antenna relay, or another relay, reverse polarity from a single signal? IOWs, power on signal- devise moves up. Power off, devise moves down. I think I have it figured out using two relays, just have not played with it yet. Thanks.

Consumption per hour would be a better way to calculate, I'd think.

Tap to 7/16 you don't even have to drill them out

I have the 28mm bar off a 89-90 XJ that I stumbled upon in Winston Salem PnP a couple of years ago. Never seen one local. Don't know how it was determined which would get the heavy bar.........seems to be hit or miss. 28 is the one to get, if you can find one.

I've used the Moog version of that poly, works well.

You're going to have to roll your own, don't see anyway around it. Get a coil and consider this http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-handheld-tubing-straightener-3-16.html And a good flare tool.

Yes, thanks. I'm doing this just as I do my work, I do the 90% then go back on the details. What sucks about not having a large garage (yet) is that the truck sits outside, everything I uncover has to be primed that day. Now I can concentrate on the small details.....after doors are hung. I deal with two body shop supply stores, one has seam sealer in a caulk tube and the other carries it in what looks like a cookie dough sleeve. I had to pick up some reducer last week and I was going to talk to the guy about which to get and how to use it but he was busy. I'll be back there in a week or so.

I've got my quote from NVU, price was not that much more for a full-on one-off custom cluster with 6 gauges. They will get my deposit in the next couple of months. I inquired about production, will remain a one-off. Group buy is available if any of you are interested.

Like all things, they wear out, what you describe is what happens when a distributor wears out. Not unusual.

Now I'm just down to the jambs and cowl as far as rough work goes. It may not look like it but a lot got done today, around rear window, rockers, cab and bed got sanded and two coats of 2K primer. Looking forward to door now.

I ain't done with this yet. Here is another that would fit perfectly if not for the gaudy oval bezel. I don't want them to reinvent the wheel, just make a cluster to fit.

To some people, more than you think, 22K is lunch money. And that is no s---. and yes, boys play.

Ultimately, this is probably what I will end up doing, these are Speedhut and they will fit in the MJ window. Ok, I guess.

As a side note: I had a couple of back and forth emails before I got this out of him/them. I've experienced this before, someone telling me what I can and cannot afford, I hate that.

Anything you can do would be appreciated.

BS. All I'm asking them to do is do what they have already done, just repackage it. Even of the gauge case/circuitry extended out past the cluster case, that would be ok as long as the face/overlay fit inside the window.

That's an interesting long arm set up.

Dist goes through the intake, does it not?