Jeep Driver

Drive it out with a punch, be careful not to lose it, you will need it again.

You might get away with 32s, I probably could have, but I cut first. Here are 32s at 2", I"m now at or beyond 4.5. I would not buy a 'kit', I choose my parts.

You've got to spend the money..........just the way it is.

Thanks! As a side note: the only thing that won't get done before it goes to paint.........body shop agreed to remove bed and prep between cab and bed, I only want the bed removed once, going to be a hassle as it is.

I still have much work to do on the cab, weld the cracks, sand and prime the rockers, there is a small dent to the right of the rear window and I still have to sand and prime below the rear window........but the big part is out of the way.

I've got the four stress cracks I have yet to drill and weld, next week, I just covered them with tape to leave them clean until I get to it. Interesting though, I'd like to know what material they used to join the roof with the B-pillar?

I got my passenger side hinges done, however, I made a mistake. Don't drill out with a dull bit and don't do it in the dark.

https://tampa.craigslist.org/hil/cto/d/2002-nissan-frontier-xe-crew/6333255078.html I'm partial to Nissan now........I'd offer $3500 and prepare to walk. That would be a good deal. Just my opinion........having had a couple of them now, I'd have nothing but a 4 door. 4x would be nice, I'll have nothing but.........however, you're in FL.

My rear bumper weighs about 100-125................makes a huge difference. Got any pics of your wheel/tires?

I'm pulling my column in the next couple of weeks for paint. My puny Grant has got to go. Anyone have any interesting 14.5-15" steering wheels you have installed or are dreaming about? Real wood would be nice. Also, considering going keyless, wondering if anyone has found a push button to replace the key cylinder with? Also, any of you guys gone to tailgate cables? If so, what works? Thanks

I suspect the motor is grounded at the door. Hot to center of switch, both wires from motor are hot wires, switch......energizes each wire, polarity is reversed in motor.........up or down. Just my guess.

The tundra is a much better deal much nicer truck that sounds like a fair price

What's it look like now?

Looks like this one sat at the body shop for a year................as I said.............

I'm doing my own body work and prep for spray. Locally, I could not find a single shop that would do a full paint, good shops only do insurance work. If you go to a custom shop..........you could expect to pay $5-8K and it will likely sit there for 6 months to a year. I just found a second shop that is willing to spray mine (backup to the first). Both want $2K (that's with me supplying all material, paint will cost about $1200, I'm about $400 into material now, primer/sundries). Second shop tells me he will have it at least 3-4 weeks, mine will be fill-in work behind his high-end builds he's painting. That's the problem with custom shops, your $8K MJ is last on the list behind their $18-20K paint jobs. Also, finding a shop that is willing to risk their reputation on YOUR body work is not going to be easy.

11.5" tire belongs on a 9" wheel. At 33 on 4.5 you are probably still going to cut. I'm currently looking to go 325/60/18 which is a 13.5 tire, 11" would be ideal but I'm likely stuck with 10" wheel. Finding a wheel you like with the correct diameter/width/BS/offset/bolt pattern is the hard part. Consider metric if you want width with less height.

As I stated in another thread............. You young guys are trying to live your entire life on your phone. Edit, crop, resize, folders, manage............etc................just not practical from a phone.

I worked out of mine for better than 5 years, put well over 100K miles on it. It never left me stranded, even when the trans went out, I still made it home.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/86-92-Jeep-Comanche-MJ-XJ-Short-10-Manual-Transmission-Shifter-Center-Console/263243273329?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D41376%26meid%3De6e5dcb7c73648c9b1b41e00b775d182%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D2%26sd%3D192311062496&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

I love fresh paint!

Typical neglected Jeep wiring. Looks like your temp is high too.

BTW, you are not just getting a taller OD, 1-4 are considerably shorter............if you can live with that.

You can read below from someone who claims to have done the swap. If you believe him, I don't. He claims it does not matter what position the CPS is on the flywheel. Apparently there is a 3 wire CPS that will fit. Apparently you have to use the Mopar 05-06 master/slave. I suspect the slave has a different travel length. He makes no mention of drive shafts, the 6 speed looks longer, you may lose your front and rear DS. As I suspected, the shift tower is not in the same position, you will lose your console, if you have one, you'll have to modify your tunnel, regardless. I found them on Ebay for around $900, assuming you get one complete, parts are expensive, poster is correct, shift towers are $700 to $1000 depending on part number. Go to Quadratech and look at part pricing, bell is over $1000. New clutch, new slave/master, CPS, wiring connectors.........etc.......possibly new DSs.......this is a minimum $2000 swap. Trans mount alone is $85 and surely you will have to modify your x-member. You'll possibly have to modify your TC linkage or go cable.......if cable, add another $170. And, you have to believe that you can make it work. Parts are NOT plentiful, I found a thread where a Mopar dealer had posted Chrysler delivery totals year to year, there was something like 91 6 speeds ordered in 2012. One of the articles I posted stated what I already knew, new trucks are not even being offered with manuals, future factory support will soon dwindle. My comment about your 'buddy'- When my last trans went out I planned on having it rebuilt, there is not a competent Jeep manual rebuilder near me, Charlotte, Nashville, or Atlanta, those were/are my options. Finding a good manual shop is becoming more and more difficult. http://www.wranglerforum.com/f19/6-speed-nsg-370-a-31284.html Do not purchase a harmonic balance or even call the guys that make these for advice. They did not help me, but only made things confusing. USE YOUR EXISTING FLYWHEEL!!! Do not buy another one. It is not necessary! Don't worry about the position being different on the new transmission. The crank position sensor just tells the engine that a piston is at top dead center and is used to time the spark plug firing. You have six pistons, so it doesn't matter which one is in the TDC position. The only trick is getting the 3 CPS wires correctly connected. They are not in the same order as the old ones. You will need to test them 123, 132, 213, 231, 312 and 321. I think the middle wire was left the same position. One of those 6 combinations is correct and your Jeep will start. The others will not work and your Jeep will not start. It is easy to diagnose. Remove the wires from the old plastic connector housing. You can remove the metal clips from the housing with a special tool or something sharp. I suggest buying some tools for crimping and working with wire connectors (search: pin extractor tool). You can purchase these from Circuit Specialists, Inc, DigiKey Corporation - Electronic Components Distributor or Mouser Electronics - Electronic Components Distributor Here is the bill of materials (BOM):I found the wiring part numbers form another poster and purchased them. In the end, I used the Mercedesmetal pin connectors and removed from wire that they were attached to. Note: removing the crimped-on metal pins from the wires was really difficult, but I only found them sold with short wires attached. I used a 2 sets of small pliers to bend the crimps open. The Mercedes pins, clips or metal connectors (whatever you'd like to call them) were then crimped onto my Jeep's existing wires. This allowed me to put the new plastic housings (to make a complete electrical connector) without any goofy splices. This will keep your Jeep reliable and is really important to do correctly.Google the part numbers. The Mopar ones can be found on eBay.Mercedes short wire connectors (pins): 000-540-38-05 get 5Mercedes connector housing (bushing) for reverse switch: 168-545-27-28 get 1MOPAR connector housing 3 –wire pigtail for crank position sensor - CPS (same as the speedometer connector): 50-14-007AB $40.97MOPAR Crank Position Sensor (bolts to transmission bell housing): 04727451AATransmission mount bolts 10mm x 1.50 x 30mm – get 4 from Lowes or McMaster Carr2005-2006 center console – get 1 from eBay or existing consoleClutch slave cylinder: 2005-2006 Jeep master and slave cylinders (sold already assembled)My NSG370 transmission was missing the small rubber boot on the shifter. Mopar sells the shift tower with the boot only. It is $700, so I used a CV dust boot and later found one on eBay.Shifter Lever from NSG370Interior shifter boot - 2005-2006 Jeep: you will need to modify/cut off flange on bottom and drill some new holes in transmission tunnel. You could modify your old steel plate that bolts to the transmission tunnel, but it is a pain.Transmission Specs for comparison AX-53.93/2.33/1.45/1.00/0.85 with 4.74 reverseAX-153.83/2.33/1.44/1.00/0.79 with 4.22 reverseNV35504.04/2.33/1.38/1.00/0.78 with 3.75 reverseNSG3704.46/2.61/1.72/1.25/1.00/0.84 with 4.06 reverse

What do you plan on doing for a CPS?