Jeep Driver

The loose TOB is a National brand and has only about 2 months of use.....I then swapped another trans and did the clutch and use the LUK TOB. The slave is OEM Chrysler and is good, as well as the hydraulic line, the master is aftermarket and I can't promise you its good but you would have something in hand to match to. Regardless of year, the blocks are all the same with a couple of exceptions that is not germane to your needs here. The gearboxes are all the same with exception of TC clocking.

I can go $150 plus shipping. If you are remotely interested I will give more details and post pics.........I need to take pics anyway for Ebay if you don't want it. I'm shipping a 2.5 head to Nashville for $47.........you're out west? can't imagine it being more than say $22.

It's nice to see someone else take the time to clean and paint an engine bay. Looks nice.

No, I don't'. 98 ZJ IIRC

I can sell you a complete '94+ external bell with fork, TOB, and master/slave. Other than that, don't know what to tell you. I wouldn't buy anything from Omix Ada.

If you've done that, you can change out a ujoint. Or, you can get a pair of ZJ CV shafts for about $67 each at Autozone and be done with it. Ujoints will take you 2-3 hours for the first time, remove wheels, brakes, unit bearings, shaft, replace. Jack up one side at a time, jack it up fairly high, and you won't lose any gear oil. $200 for a shop? yeah, I think that's fair. Mine do not pop at all, under any circumstances. Don't rule out TC chain slipping, unless you know for certain.

Looks like a Wrangler to me. Do yourself a favor https://core-shifters.com/products/core-hurst-shifter-1989-1999-jeep-cherokee-comanche-6-cyl-w-ax15-5-speed

OK, now it's good. Looks good on the phone but long and skinny on the desk top............just occurred to me to reset the screen..........now it's good. Thanks.

He's gotta have a stick from a Wrangler.

Whatever you did...........undo it.

Who? What?

If you can afford it, it's a good buy. Let me be clear, I'm not suggesting you buy it, I am, however, giving you a counter opinion based of knowledge of parts and what the seller has put into it.

Just a little perspective............ I'm not a fan of sellers paint scheme, that said........... A quality paint job, a full paint, is worth every penny of $5k..........every freak'n penny. If you can find someone willing to do a full paint. I know, I'm going through it now, it's a process that absolutely sucks.

$13,500 is cheap.

No, I'm not disputing your numbers. I've seen your charts and I've actually looked at other charts in comparison. I do not doubt your numbers. I see a lot of chassis pulls and virtually no engine dyno results, chassis results are not conclusive to me,,,,,,I'm not going to wage my $5K on inconclusive results, too many variables. Your dyno result are for you, not a standard for every stroker. AW4 is a dead end for me, no manual valve body..........and I ain't doing hocus pocus controllers and switches to fool the AW4. You can read about it at NAXJA, when guys start claiming that they are building strokers that are productive through 5-6-7K rpm...........they have gone off the reservation, utter BS. Even your own chart........torque drops like a rock above 3500. Somewhere there is a Chysler stock graph that looks similar to yours, just lower numbers, of course.

I haven't seen anyone do much with centrifugals on the 4.0's yet........haven't really sought it out though. But that's the direction I'd be looking in. I got into it a bit with the stroker guys over on NAXJA for lying about their numbers..........and they have. Be aware of that. Many of them have something to sell. 4.0s are 3500rpm engine, look at anyone's graphs..........that's what they are There are a lot of people with a lot of money invested, they gotta find suckers. Reliability is the issue. I've yet to find anyone who claimed serious numbers to claim reliability.............lot's of money for little return. And the AW4.........that's another issue.

Yeah, I aware. One thing these articles, builders, never reveal, although it should be obvious to you. You ain't sitting in a $2M shop with 6 other guys and unlimited resources........they are, yet claim a $2K build. Nor do they go on and on about all the trial and error and broken parts. Go here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BMS9mK0H6sU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=obYaYspo44A https://www.facebook.com/SeitzRacingTeam/ Read through his FaceFreak..........blown a AW4....which is expected..........and a broke a cam...........I'd expect that too. Go here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8PiDtrxblyg myguess is $10K to get there.......... Here HP cost money. You want HP, ditch the MPI, ditch the stock ignition...........intake and headers...............and you still won't be pulling past 4000rpm......maybe 5K

Ain't gonna happen.

So would I. Ummm ... where the heck is Nunavut?

There is much to say here..........'family forum'...................well................ “Can you actually imagine us selling to China while Donald Trump is in the White House?” one senior company official told the Financial Times. Bunch of GDBS............blame everything on Trump. I'll tell you what though.......bet you we could afford them and they won't overheat...........LOL. As for tech.......they have it already.......jeeeesh.

The axle came from a '94 XJ and the shafts are from a (IIRC) '98 ZJ. I won't be climbing over boulders..........guys complain CVs are weak but these have held up well and it steers real smooth.

I called Williams Auto Glass today, he is coming out Thursday morning to remove my windshield for paint prep, then installing new after paint.

Here in Gatlinburg we experienced 99.96% totality. Wife took this pic right before. It was one cool experience.

What are you doing about the damaged fork?