87MJTIM

Not shown in diagram

HOrnbrod, where does the passenger door switch ground?

Labor rates do vary from place to place. I was being conservative.

Playing devil's advocate... It wouldn't make much sense to go that far and only change 3rd gear. A complete rebuild kit sells for ~$350 at Morris Jeep - but that is Crown (C.R.A.P.) I don't see seals or gaskets listed on the included parts list - add another ~$200. That's $550. Different (better quality) brand would add to that price. So let's say materials, all in, is going to run $700. Now you have to pay for the labor to tear down and rebuild. With a $50 labor rate and 10 hours (guess), you can add $500 more. You're already $1000 to $1200. Have you looked on Craigslist for used Jeep 4.0 with a manual. For the price of a rebuild, you could get a parts Jeep. Just my 2¢.

The AX15 will bolt to any Jeep 4.0. One issue you may have the pilot bearing/bushing for the trans input shaft. Early years trans have a smaller tip than later years tip.

You would need a 4.0 to match the AX15. Doesn’t matter which year.

Someone else may comment, but I do not believe the bellhousing that bolts to the 4.0 will bolt to a 2.5. The bolt patterns are different. You may have to search for a Dakota bellhousing. Do some searching for the years that match.

I would jack up both sides at the same time. Remove the wheels and drums on both. While working on one side you have the second to reference. Better than a picture on your phone. You have a 3D model to refer back to. Also, brake shoes are directional - one leading, one trailing. I can not remember which is which. As you take the pieces off, lay them on the ground in front of you in the same orientation. This will also help you put it all back together.

That's called "changing the oil from the top." I have an 8.1 L Chevy Suburban I do that to.

I cannot think of a price that I would accept

My brother used to work a parts counter at a Toyota stealership. He always talked about a time he sold a small part ($10 retail) for 3x that price. He told the customer it lists for $50, but he will sell it for $30. The customer was grateful. I am always skeptical when I go to the dealership. I remember my brother's story.

I had parked mine overnight at my office. I came back in the morning to find a hand written note. It said if I was going to sell it to call the number written on the note. I never called, but I still have the note. In the past, some people have asked if it was for sale. I politely state that it is not.

Old dogs can learn new tricks. I did not know that.

Why does the cover of the 90 catalog list "YJ" (which is the Wrangler) then list Cherokee, Wagoneers and Comanches by their model names (not letter designations). Does the catalog show any Wranglers?

the master cyl is the issue, not the slave. the slave doesn't matter if the trans is pre-98. The bolt holes in the firewall are the issues.

Or I've had it wrong for 31 yrs!

Is the grill up-side-down on the last photo/poster?

Sensor ohm test pin A-B - 4.5 ohm bad sensor?

Thx

An internet search keeps coming up with NGK and NTK as the same parts. Are these the same?

Follow up: With a DVOM, KO/EO - Tested the orange wire (pin A) from the heater relay - got 11.8v Tested the gray wire (pin C) from ECU - got 5.01v Ohm tested the ground (pin B) to engine block - 0.000 I found this on NAXJA for a reference. http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1012701 I'm open to suggestions.

All good points, Agamble. One observation, the 98 master cylinder is taller, longer, and the bolt pattern are diff from the earlier master cyl. I remember reading that the 98+ master cyl will interfere with the brake booster or intake ( I don't remeber which).

Proper matching tcase - 23 splines. (If you are going to 4wd. If not - Never mind.)

Gonna get the DVOM to it this weekend. I will post the results.

the O2 does change, but will read <2.5v most of the time while cruising. While idling, it will bounce around +/- 2.5v. Before I swapped the O2, the signal was 4.98v - flatline.