87MJTIM

Brandon, If you make the rockers and/or cab corners, put me down for each side.

I hope that was the guy I connected you with.

That's what I thought (and was afraid of) from prior experience. I guess I will pound that sword into a plowshare.

I purchased a driver's side rocker panel from Z&M Jeep a few years ago at the York Jeep show. I have not used it yet. I have held it up against the original. It looks about right. I can post a picture later. (However, if it matches the way a bed side panel I purchased previously did, I may have a nice piece of scrap metal.)

Because that is what mine came with from the factory. Someone asked me once why I drive an old truck. "Why don't you buy a new one?" I said, "they stopped making then in '92." The person then gives me puzzled look.

I have not had any problems with the closed system, either. Yes, I have replaced the pressure bottle a couple times over the last 31 years. I did purchase the Volvo cap. I was changing all the hoses so I figured I might as well delete the HCV while I was there. I have read that new cars are getting the closed systems again.

How do I keep the e-fan WITHOUT having to wire in a manual override switch? EDIT: I have read and watch Youtube videos (Nickintime converted to open) that indicate the newer radiators do not have the e-fan switch bung. That was why I did not want to make the conversion. Is it correct that the radiators do no have the switch bung?

I deleted the heater control valve

XJ MJ the same Mounts on back wall of cab behind drivers seat.

I believe it is NC. When you push in the clutch, the vacuum opens, thus disengaging the CC

It is the vacuum disconnect for clutch pedal to disengage cruise control

I also notice the grills. Moldings and decals were offered every year, depending on the model.

Watched this on youtube.

On mine, yes the wires are there. However, I tried to install a second horn from an XJ (passenger side) and the wires were too short. I have not worked on it to correct the problem, yet.

watching

Could be the front bearing cover not sealed properly. When you were driving home with it, was it full of fluid? Now that it is full, the leak is obvious. That would mean dropping the trans and resealing the cover.

It's on the firewall just to the right and below the blower.

If you're up this way (MD), I have two AW4s looking for good homes. From an 87 and a 93. ( I have not seen either operate. POs informed me the trans worked. I make no guarantees.)

7 lbs 8 oz 9/10 5:30 PM 17.5"

Thanks. However, you did not drag the BOLD over far enough "or at least buzzes."

It won't stop you from doing any of the things I mentioned. It may/will make you look why the buzzer is going off.

That's the delay option. There should be a buzzer chime module on the fuse box. The buzzer goes off if: 1) you leave your lights on when you turn off the engine, 2) you have not buckled your seat belt, or 3) you left your keys in the ignition switch when you open the door.

You should check or change the buzzer chime module on the fuse box. It’s either brown or blue

Did you ever see the movie “Alien”? just asking.

The REM takes the temp from the CTS. The gauge take the temp from the sensor on the back of the head. They're not connected. The REM gives the reading of 190 - 198*. It will fluctuate depending on outside temps and how fast I'm moving.