87MJTIM

One that doesn't leak ? (Joking)

Not yet...too cold to be outside and the sun sets too early to see after work. I want to get it this weekend. I have located and pulled out the older headlight switch.

That could be, although, I did do Cruiser's dash ground upgrade. I have an older light switch I will throw in to it. ( I kept the previous light switch from a prior "parts cannon" repair. Changing the switch did not fix the original issue, so I kept the old one.)

That was my first though, also. However, the instrument lights and gauges run off different circuits. Why would one effect the other?

I searched for that on the 'net. However, I came up with Mygrant Glass. HQ'd in Hayward, CA., but they have two locations near me (and you): B'more and Lanham, MD

I drove to a store tonight and everything was working just fine: cluster lights and all gauges. I got back in to the truck to head home and I noticed the most of the dash lights were out. One or two on the right side were lit up - speedo and oil pressure - all the others were out. I could also see that none of the gauges were working: temp was pegged to the right, the other three (gas, oil, alt) were pegged to the left. Both the green turn/flasher lights were on. I could see the tach moving, but it didn't look like it was reading correctly (it was dark and I was driving). I could see in my mirror that my tail lights were on and the turn signals worked. When I put on my turn signal, the tach needle bounced in sync with the turn signal. Also, I think my high beams were on. A few people flashed me as I drove home. All this just occurred tonight. I have not had any electrical issue previously. I have not played with or modified any electrical part on the truck in months. The parts I did work on were in the engine bay and had nothing to do with the lights or dash. When I got home, I flipped the high beam switch and it looked light the HB were on. I had not turned them on when I first drove it. And the last piece of info: when I turned off the lights, all the gauges appeared to work correctly. WTF?!?!?

on the down pipe, just below the exhaust manifold.

BTW - did you get the cross member and trans mount? Those are needed, also.

How large is the input tip shaft? 3/4" is from a 94+ AX15; 1/2" is from an 89 - 93. (I maybe off a year on the change.) (my experience: if you have an external slave cylinder AX15 [larger input tip] you should replace the clutch kit with the appropriate yr. trans kit [not the MJ yr]. Also, you will need a pilot bushing for a 74 CJ5, with a 304 engine. This is well documented on some threads on CC.) The black connector is probably the 4wd indicator. Is the trans/tcase from and XJ or a YJ? A YJ tcase is clocked differently than an XJ/MJ. If a YJ, it may hit the trans tunnel on bumps. For the bolts, (if you can weld) is to weld hex nuts on the top of the bolts. Then just use a wrench to turn the bolts out.

The cluster from a Renix (87-90) will not work with an HO (91+). One is mechanical (Renix), the other is electronic (HO). That's why the short cable for the cruise control is a good part to keep. I do not believe the Renix cruise will work on the HO electronics - apples v. oranges, cats v. dogs,

A tow package may have a D44 rear end! As others have mentioned: instrument cluster, entire cruise system - including the short speedo cable that comes from the instr. cluster to the rev-counter sensor, and more than I can think of now. Oh yeah - the ECU

1987, no ballast resistor, original pump, 300K. What's the problem with bypassing?

https://martinsburg.craigslist.org/cto/d/factory-diesel-jeep/6745442158.html Does say if it runs.

OUCH! That hurts my eyes.

There’s a 5 amp fuse in the box- INST DSP. check that. You did say the lights flash. It maybe loose. Check the ground wire- G102 - under the dash panel. Go to Cruiser’s Renix upgrades to perform ground improvements

People looking for a pick up to carry stuff will look elsewhere. People looking for a family hauler to the beach or mountains will want a cargo space to keep their gear safe and dry. No, I think the market is the "wanna-be's" that will pull up along side MJ (and J-series) owners and wave to us, like they're now part of the club. We'll politely wave back - with more than 1 finger.

My vote, and experience - harmonic balancer.

"...excepting Alice."

Did they or didn't they apply the Scrambler name to the new model? The official pictures only uses Gladiator

How long has it been?....10 years to repackage a JK. doesn't make want to run to a dealership to buy one. I wonder what the sticker price (sticker shock) is on one?

That’s my plan. I just hope it doesn’t take me 30 years

Hit this today. It’s probably more, though - two broken speedometer cables and the wrong speedo gear for 2 years

You will need the tcase from the 89,also. Your old tcase will not fit to the AX15. (I’m guessing you have 4wd)

https://winchester.craigslist.org/cto/d/1987-jeep-commanche-4x4/6720596301.html Factory visor, tow mirrors, and original bumper with a receiver asking $4000

https://harrisburg.craigslist.org/cto/d/91-comanche-4xspeed-120k/6744671761.html Add says 91, but the pictures say early 87. How do I know? It has a 10 slot grill. I believe those stopped after Renix era. Also, the COMANCHE emblem on the fenders - all caps. That was an 86 - early 87 emblem. Additionally, it is a Laredo. That was only 87 - 89/90 package.