87MJTIM

Congrats...and thank you for your service

Looks like an old road that the other streets were built around. You see that is some areas. If you stand in an intersection, a road may have one name in one direction; turn around 180* and the road has a different name. Usually, the names are for the next town, or cluster of houses, or just some long forgotten landmark, the road went through. When you get to the next town, the road is named for the town you just came from. I see that a lot in around here (MD). Head south out of Frederick on "Urbana Pike." When you reach Urbana, the road north if "Frederick Rd."

Since the prior owner operated as a sole prop., you could go after him personally. Unless he operated out of his house (or still owns the building the new buyer operates in), a mechanics lien may not attach to the building you performed your work. The owner of the building did not contract with you. The fact that the PO ran up bills/debts is of no concern for the buyer. The buyer is under no obligation to pay the PO's bills. (Truth be told, if I were the buyer, I would tell you go back to the PO.) The buyer's verbal promise to pay the debt is as good as the paper it is printed on. As Eagle said, your best bet is to take him to small claims court. Be prepared with your documentation of the work you performed, your cost of materials, and your time. Have your girlfriend available to support you, if necessary. Or... As many people before you have learned (I am on the list), use it as a learning experience. Next time, write up a contract/agreement of what you will do. Have him sign it. Request a deposit before you start work. Some states limit deposits to a % of the contract (33%). Check local law before you write. Demand payment upon completion. If I collected on all the work I've done the past 20+ years that didn't pay, I could purchase a new JLU Ruby!

I am a CPA, not an attorney. That said, here are my first questions: How did to old owner operate the business: corporation, LLC, or sole proprietor? How did the sale of the business occur: was it a "stock" sale, or was it an "asset" sale? Depending on the answers to above questions will determine IF you can collect and FROM WHOM you can collect. (My first thought is you have to go to the old owner.)

If the holes were good, then the bolts must be too small. It has to be one or the other.

Maybe the PO retapped the bolt holes. Try getting bolts that are a size larger - probably metric sizes.

Whenever someone has the symptoms you describe, I think CPS. You should test it before changing it. Cruiser has testing procedures for the CPS. www.cruiser54.com

Most CD drives have a pin hole in the front. This a manual opening override. She should take a paperclip, straighten it out, and push it in to the pin hole. This has worked for me. Disclaimer: I do not, and have not owned a Mac. I don't know if Apple puts the pin hole on them.

Check the opposite end of the cable. Make sure you didn't pull the cable out of the gauge side. Just a thought.

I just replaced the spring on mine. Now the pedal doesn't bounce back when I push it down.

Found the problem. and the winner is....Ohm! The C203 connector came loose. I pushed it in tighter and all the gauges and lights work as AMC/Jeep intended. Thanks for your help, always appreciated.

One that doesn't leak ? (Joking)

Not yet...too cold to be outside and the sun sets too early to see after work. I want to get it this weekend. I have located and pulled out the older headlight switch.

That could be, although, I did do Cruiser's dash ground upgrade. I have an older light switch I will throw in to it. ( I kept the previous light switch from a prior "parts cannon" repair. Changing the switch did not fix the original issue, so I kept the old one.)

That was my first though, also. However, the instrument lights and gauges run off different circuits. Why would one effect the other?

I searched for that on the 'net. However, I came up with Mygrant Glass. HQ'd in Hayward, CA., but they have two locations near me (and you): B'more and Lanham, MD

I drove to a store tonight and everything was working just fine: cluster lights and all gauges. I got back in to the truck to head home and I noticed the most of the dash lights were out. One or two on the right side were lit up - speedo and oil pressure - all the others were out. I could also see that none of the gauges were working: temp was pegged to the right, the other three (gas, oil, alt) were pegged to the left. Both the green turn/flasher lights were on. I could see the tach moving, but it didn't look like it was reading correctly (it was dark and I was driving). I could see in my mirror that my tail lights were on and the turn signals worked. When I put on my turn signal, the tach needle bounced in sync with the turn signal. Also, I think my high beams were on. A few people flashed me as I drove home. All this just occurred tonight. I have not had any electrical issue previously. I have not played with or modified any electrical part on the truck in months. The parts I did work on were in the engine bay and had nothing to do with the lights or dash. When I got home, I flipped the high beam switch and it looked light the HB were on. I had not turned them on when I first drove it. And the last piece of info: when I turned off the lights, all the gauges appeared to work correctly. WTF?!?!?

on the down pipe, just below the exhaust manifold.

BTW - did you get the cross member and trans mount? Those are needed, also.

How large is the input tip shaft? 3/4" is from a 94+ AX15; 1/2" is from an 89 - 93. (I maybe off a year on the change.) (my experience: if you have an external slave cylinder AX15 [larger input tip] you should replace the clutch kit with the appropriate yr. trans kit [not the MJ yr]. Also, you will need a pilot bushing for a 74 CJ5, with a 304 engine. This is well documented on some threads on CC.) The black connector is probably the 4wd indicator. Is the trans/tcase from and XJ or a YJ? A YJ tcase is clocked differently than an XJ/MJ. If a YJ, it may hit the trans tunnel on bumps. For the bolts, (if you can weld) is to weld hex nuts on the top of the bolts. Then just use a wrench to turn the bolts out.

The cluster from a Renix (87-90) will not work with an HO (91+). One is mechanical (Renix), the other is electronic (HO). That's why the short cable for the cruise control is a good part to keep. I do not believe the Renix cruise will work on the HO electronics - apples v. oranges, cats v. dogs,

A tow package may have a D44 rear end! As others have mentioned: instrument cluster, entire cruise system - including the short speedo cable that comes from the instr. cluster to the rev-counter sensor, and more than I can think of now. Oh yeah - the ECU

1987, no ballast resistor, original pump, 300K. What's the problem with bypassing?

https://martinsburg.craigslist.org/cto/d/factory-diesel-jeep/6745442158.html Does say if it runs.

OUCH! That hurts my eyes.