87MJTIM

Could it be fuel related? If leaving the key in the start position keeps it running and in the run position it shuts off sounds like fuel delivery. Does your truck have a ballast resistor? If so, try bypassing it

Do you see the "cause & effect" from your actions?

I like the logo with the Santa hat. (Fill in the "b" with red for Rudolph.) Merry Christmas to all!

Not at all. Did you have any friends named Sherman or Grant growing up?

93 XJ non-CAD D30

So, if I have a tcase from a 93, do I have "true neutral"?

...but let us know how you really feel about the Civil War.

Try testing the O2 sensor first. See Cruiser's test procedures or Another Freakin' Cherokee Website for Renix help. Swapping the O2 sensor may be a simple fix.

If a leak affects one of the sensors, like the MAP, then yes, it may cause a high idle. If the leak is away from a sensor, like an improperly set injector, the air intake is un-monitored. More air in the cylinder will give a lean condition. According to the Renix FI manual (p.3), if the STFT is at either extreme 0 (rich) or 255 (lean), the ECU will default to open loop.

My truck has a similar issue. I have Nickintime's REM to monitor my engine. After starting up the engine, it will switch to closed loop and the STFT starts to climb up to 255 (running lean). After 2 seconds, it switches back to open loop. Once the engine warms up, it will switch back to closed loop. But, the STFT shows low numbers - 30 to <100 (rich condition). When i give it gas, the STFT climbs up above 128. I believe my issue may be an intake leak somewhere from the manifold to the injectors. I have not had the time to diagnose it yet. Back to your issue, with it in a constant lean condition, I would think you may have an intake leak. With the MT2500 visible, spray carb cleaner/throttle body cleaner at various points on the intake system: around the injectors, manifold gasket, throttle body. See how the O2 sensor responds; the STFT response; open v. closed loop response. Replacing the O2 sensor is not too expensive, nor that difficult.

It just pulls straight up. There are four tabs - like fingers - that slide in to slots in the door. In order not to break the piece, you have to gently pull the whole part up evenly. Start on one side and tug up. Then move over an tug some more. Work to the opposite end, then return to the beginning. I think the part is a weather strip or a sweep. You can get replacements at www.teamcherokee.com

Congrats...and thank you for your service

Looks like an old road that the other streets were built around. You see that is some areas. If you stand in an intersection, a road may have one name in one direction; turn around 180* and the road has a different name. Usually, the names are for the next town, or cluster of houses, or just some long forgotten landmark, the road went through. When you get to the next town, the road is named for the town you just came from. I see that a lot in around here (MD). Head south out of Frederick on "Urbana Pike." When you reach Urbana, the road north if "Frederick Rd."

Since the prior owner operated as a sole prop., you could go after him personally. Unless he operated out of his house (or still owns the building the new buyer operates in), a mechanics lien may not attach to the building you performed your work. The owner of the building did not contract with you. The fact that the PO ran up bills/debts is of no concern for the buyer. The buyer is under no obligation to pay the PO's bills. (Truth be told, if I were the buyer, I would tell you go back to the PO.) The buyer's verbal promise to pay the debt is as good as the paper it is printed on. As Eagle said, your best bet is to take him to small claims court. Be prepared with your documentation of the work you performed, your cost of materials, and your time. Have your girlfriend available to support you, if necessary. Or... As many people before you have learned (I am on the list), use it as a learning experience. Next time, write up a contract/agreement of what you will do. Have him sign it. Request a deposit before you start work. Some states limit deposits to a % of the contract (33%). Check local law before you write. Demand payment upon completion. If I collected on all the work I've done the past 20+ years that didn't pay, I could purchase a new JLU Ruby!

I am a CPA, not an attorney. That said, here are my first questions: How did to old owner operate the business: corporation, LLC, or sole proprietor? How did the sale of the business occur: was it a "stock" sale, or was it an "asset" sale? Depending on the answers to above questions will determine IF you can collect and FROM WHOM you can collect. (My first thought is you have to go to the old owner.)

If the holes were good, then the bolts must be too small. It has to be one or the other.

Maybe the PO retapped the bolt holes. Try getting bolts that are a size larger - probably metric sizes.

Whenever someone has the symptoms you describe, I think CPS. You should test it before changing it. Cruiser has testing procedures for the CPS. www.cruiser54.com

Most CD drives have a pin hole in the front. This a manual opening override. She should take a paperclip, straighten it out, and push it in to the pin hole. This has worked for me. Disclaimer: I do not, and have not owned a Mac. I don't know if Apple puts the pin hole on them.

Check the opposite end of the cable. Make sure you didn't pull the cable out of the gauge side. Just a thought.

I just replaced the spring on mine. Now the pedal doesn't bounce back when I push it down.

Found the problem. and the winner is....Ohm! The C203 connector came loose. I pushed it in tighter and all the gauges and lights work as AMC/Jeep intended. Thanks for your help, always appreciated.

One that doesn't leak ? (Joking)

Not yet...too cold to be outside and the sun sets too early to see after work. I want to get it this weekend. I have located and pulled out the older headlight switch.

That could be, although, I did do Cruiser's dash ground upgrade. I have an older light switch I will throw in to it. ( I kept the previous light switch from a prior "parts cannon" repair. Changing the switch did not fix the original issue, so I kept the old one.)