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About PCO6

  • Rank
    Comanche Aficionado

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Newmarket, Ontario
  • Interests
    Restoration and Fabrication. Camping and building trailers for same.

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1045 profile views
  1. I've never had one fail before but after having one fall out I added checking it to my maintenance list. We used to install a lot of them on customer's cars years ago. Lots of new frost plugs too. We just used engine oil on the heater gaskets, like installing an oil filter. Every Jeep I've owned has had a block heater. I've read that they came standard with Canadian Jeeps. They appear on the build sheets for each one I currently own. On most of mine the electrical cord was never even unravelled. Where you are I'm sure they all were! I'll get into NAPA this week for a cap. Not sure about the aluminum can though. Apart from the price (!) I like to see what's going on … leaks and all.
  2. EDIT --- I basically stated earlier that the cooling systems on my RENIX era MJ & XJ have been trouble free. NOT TRUE. A few years ago I was about to take my MJ in to Krown Rustproofing to be sprayed. I took it through the car wash the day before to clean the underside. It was the first time I did it and I don't plan to do it again. About a km later the block heater fell out. It over heated and when I pulled over it was pretty obvious what had happened. There was a trail of coolant and it was literally dangling by the electrical cord. I doubt the cord caught on anything and I can't imagine that the water pressure knocked it out. I've never had that happen before but I've had enough of car washes.
  3. One of my brothers runs a '68 Mini that he converted to a closed system. I did the same to a '60 MGA many years ago. Not sure why I did it back then (late '70s) other than some of the "cool guys" had it on their race cars. I'll take a closer look at my Dorman cap. it sound like I might want to replace it.
  4. As far as I could tell the pressure bottle in my XJ was the original (30 yrs.) and that's why I replaced it. I'm about to do my MJ for the same reason. I also couldn't see what the coolant level was and got tired of using the wooden dowel dip stick I made for it. I have a NOS closed system radiator in my shed and haven't really paid attention to whether new ones are available. I'm not opposed to converting to an open system and if the rad supply dries up that would be a pretty good reason!
  5. I'm not surprised that some after market parts (Dorman & others) don't last as long or perform as well as OEM parts. The bottle on my XJ has only been on for about 5-6 months and no leaks ...again ... so far. I bought a new XJ back in '90 and never had a cooling problem, all OEM of course. The ABS brakes were another matter. The final straw was a brake job that cost me 10% of the cost of the vehicle. I have TJ and an LJ as well. Both are open systems of course and I admit that I prefer that. They both run fine too. Funny thing, I just replaced the OEM over flow bottle on the LJ. It cracked after 15 years and it just sits there. lol.
  6. I can see where the bottle and cap could become a problem. I replaced one of mine with a Dorman product earlier this year and so far so good. I generally get my parts from NAPA and the dealership when necessary, plus a bit on line. I haven't been stumped so far and everything I've got seems to be decent. Are there some cooling parts that are known to be problems or that are unavailable?
  7. Perhaps a dumb question but I'll ask it anyway. Apart from eliminating the heater control valve, what is the main reason for converting from a closed to open system? I have a '88 MJ and a '89 XJ, both with the original closed systems. I have no cooling issues with either. The XJ has AC (2 fans) and the MJ does not (1 fan). I've driven both all day long in hot weather at highway speeds and at times in stop and go traffic. I maintain both systems (coolant changes, flushing, hoses, belts, pumps, etc.) in stock form. The only thing I don't like is not being able to pressure test them. Both run a bit different. The MJ stays at 100* (212*) and doesn't move. I'll probably be adding a stock Jeep electric fan to this one. The XJ is always a bit below 100* but it fluctuates which I take as the electric fan kicking in or the thermostat (MOPAR) opening and closing. I tow a 1,600 or so pound tear drop trailer with the XJ and all is good. A lot of what I read says "do it" but I can't see making the change when all is good. Maybe I'm living on borrowed time and should move this up on the list of things to do.
  8. I cut up a piece of rubber BBQ mat for mine and it worked fine. It's a bit thicker than the original gasket material and at 30" x 48" I have plenty for other projects. https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/master-chef-rubber-grill-pad-30-in-x-48-in-0852146p.html#srp
  9. PCO6

    While out and about

    Prices are all over the map and like many car parts that aren't plentiful they're worth what a buyer will pay. I saw an MJ tailgate at an auto flea market last Fall and the guy was asking $600 CDN (about $450 US). There's no way I'd pay that unless I desperately needed one. I walked by the same booth a few hours later and it was gone. A few months later a guy from the neighbourhood puled into my driveway, opened the back of his Suburban and said … "do you want this stuff?". He gave me a perfect MJ tailgate plus several other MJ parts at no cost! Auto wreckers around here have set prices for items that often don't make sense. I got a pair of near perfect driving lamps or my LJ for $7 each. To them they were just head lights. Bucket seats go for $35 ea. whether they're leather or ripped up fabric. A friend got a tailgate for a TJ (granted, not nearly the same as an MJ) for $25. If it was for an MJ I'm not sure if would have been much more.
  10. PCO6

    Jeep J-10 Price

    What looked like a decent J-10 was on the block at the Toronto Classic Car Auction this past weekend. I didn't stick around for that part of the auction so I'll be curious to see the results when they post them in 2 or 3 weeks. It's the second time, that I know of, that it's been at this auction. It had a reserve price both times and obviously it wasn't met the first time.
  11. From Barn Finds ... https://barnfinds.com/cheap-jeep-1989-jeep-comanche-sportruck/?utm_campaign=Newsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_source=Newsletter+(Daily)&utm_content=imagelink
  12. PCO6

    long live the GPS

  13. Most of the problems with SU carbs can be attributed to worn throttle shafts where they pass through the carb body. The brass shaft (1 per carb) rotates through the aluminum carb body. Both the shaft and the body wear over time and air is sucked in through the sides of the carb body. That basically makes them impossible to balance. If you're doing a rebuild (gaskets, needle & seats, floats etc.) it's best to replace the shafts and install aftermarket bushings at the same time. Any of the British car retailers like Moss Motors will have them. If you have the carbs apart look at the shafts and bodies and it's pretty easy to see how they wear out. Sometimes you can grab the shafts without taking the carbs apart and wiggle them (vs. rotating them) and it will become obvious how air is getting sucked in from where it shouldn't be. I've seen some that are almost comical. You could literally poke a small screw driver through the side of the carb. Replacing the shafts and installing bushings will require a line reamer. It can be done by hand (no machine work) but you need a line reamer to match the O.D. of the bushings. Those look like the original SU's btw. I think they're H4's ... but I'm trying hard to forget everything I can about them. lol
  14. How true! I actually liked the pics. They were the best part ... except for that weird hand drawn nonsense.
  15. I did more studies and wrote more reports than I care to remember (happily retired now). I learned early that clients and politicians won't hire you again if you can't get to the point quickly! That was my way of thinking too ... "I don't waste time with time wasters".
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