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PCO6

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About PCO6

  • Rank
    Comanche Aficionado

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Newmarket, Ontario
  • Interests
    Restoration and Fabrication. Camping and building trailers for same.

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  1. Most of the problems with SU carbs can be attributed to worn throttle shafts where they pass through the carb body. The brass shaft (1 per carb) rotates through the aluminum carb body. Both the shaft and the body wear over time and air is sucked in through the sides of the carb body. That basically makes them impossible to balance. If you're doing a rebuild (gaskets, needle & seats, floats etc.) it's best to replace the shafts and install aftermarket bushings at the same time. Any of the British car retailers like Moss Motors will have them. If you have the carbs apart look at the shafts and bodies and it's pretty easy to see how they wear out. Sometimes you can grab the shafts without taking the carbs apart and wiggle them (vs. rotating them) and it will become obvious how air is getting sucked in from where it shouldn't be. I've seen some that are almost comical. You could literally poke a small screw driver through the side of the carb. Replacing the shafts and installing bushings will require a line reamer. It can be done by hand (no machine work) but you need a line reamer to match the O.D. of the bushings. Those look like the original SU's btw. I think they're H4's ... but I'm trying hard to forget everything I can about them. lol
  2. How true! I actually liked the pics. They were the best part ... except for that weird hand drawn nonsense.
  3. I did more studies and wrote more reports than I care to remember (happily retired now). I learned early that clients and politicians won't hire you again if you can't get to the point quickly! That was my way of thinking too ... "I don't waste time with time wasters".
  4. I had the same problem. I found it funny that the author said he's learned how to "communicate economically". I think he needs to reconsider that.
  5. PCO6

    Anybody else have an MJ and and XJ?

    I have an MJ and an XJ (plus a TJ and an LJ). '88 MJ Eliminator ... '89 XJ Limited ...
  6. Mine are the same as the ones posted by fiatslug87 above. I have 2 '88 MJ's and both sets are the same as his pics. One set is the same condition and the other is worn but quite a bit better. Funny story about the one set is that I bought the MJ as a parts car that had been sitting outside for 19 years. The vendor could not find the keys. Arranging for the purchase and pick up went on for about a month. The vendor phoned me all excited one day to say that after turning his house upside down he found the ignition key (it was a recut key - no complaint). When I picked it up, I lifted the driver's floor mat and the original keys had been there for all those years! That "parts car" turned out to be a LOT more than that. It will not be parted out!
  7. PCO6

    88 Grand Waggy

    Old post but I thought I'd chime in by saying that a lot of the woody restorations you see are actually painted not vinyl. This was a common process on the dash boards and other interior parts of older cars. It's just done on woodies on a bigger scale. One of my brothers has a '66 Ford Country Squire with painted wood grain. I think the only way you can tell is that it looks better! Vinyl covering gets dull over time vs. paint which does not if you maintain it. The real problem is the "wood" trim which is usually a lighter colour. Not sure about Jeeps but a lot of them are made of fibreglass. There are a lot of pieces and if some are missing or broken it can become very expensive.
  8. PCO6

    Rim Question

    I prefer stock rims too and it's MOAB's for me. I have them on all of my Jeeps (MJ, XJ, TJ & LJ) plus on my expedition trailer. MOAB's with 245/75/16's & no lift.
  9. My '88 MJ has AMC logo keys and my '89 XJ has Chrysler keys. Both have "Jeep" on them.
  10. Nice find. Those look a lot like a set I have. They were on the sport bar of a parts MJ that I bought a few months ago. They were on the bar but not connected to a wiring harness, switch, relay, etc. The owner said that he got them at a dealership. The covers appear to be the same. The lamps are similar but the housings mount differently. The lamps measure 6" x 3" and have "JF" on them (not sure if that is the brand). My problem is that the rings that retain the lamps are badly rusted - no doubt the covers retained water and caused rust.
  11. Asking $2,000 Canadian. https://www.kijiji.ca/v-view-details.html?adId=1366886744&utm_source=alerts&utm_campaign=Kijiji_Alert_LISTACTIVEADS&utm_medium=email
  12. LOL ... very true. BTW - road salt (= rust) is a good thing. It makes us better welders!
  13. I agree, grounding directly to the block is a good thing but the other wires could have been grounded to a different and more accessible location. The ones I've cleaned up have been an oily and somewhat frayed mess down there. I haven't looked at this carefully but I think that running a 4g cable back up to the fire wall and grounding the secondary wires there might be an option. I replaced the firewall ground strap on the left side with a 4g cable to the manifold. That's a bit far away but a similar thing on the right side might work.
  14. That's one of the first ones I would have got rid of!
  15. It's a reoccurring theme … lots of really fundamental design gafs looking for practical solutions. Your tips have proven this over and over again!
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