DirtyComanche

Bumper looks good. :cheers:

For the record, you can put 10w30 in the tcase. NP/NV is not on board with it, but it's not likely to cause any issues. Anything thicker (gear oil) doesn't pump well and will cause issues. I don't think I'd do this, but maybe a 0w synthetic I'd consider... I don't feel there is much point in trying something like this either way though. The type of ATF you use in it does not really matter, +4 is only called for because the tcase is in a Chrysler application. They called for Dex/Merc prior to Chrysler. GM called for +3 in their NP231s. All the tcases are functionally the same. I wouldn't put straight 40w in a diff. :dunno: I use the same 75w140 synthetic in my axles as in my tranny. These choices are based on the assumption that I'm going to subject the components to massive abuse.

Anytime you get a D44 rear it's a good deal. :thumbsup:

The Peugeot case is split down the length of the trasmission, with a split line roughly on the very bottom and the very top. The AX-15 is a split by a band that goes around the entire case, near the shift tower. The Peugeot also uses some weird square metric internal plugs.

There's probably as many opinions on fluid to use as there is members of this forum. You're supposed to use an API GL-4 oil according to the OEM, but that is an obsolete standard. Chrysler later decided that 10w30 motor oil (IIRC) was acceptable. I used Lucas 75w140 Synthetic last time. It is a API GL-5 oil, and is listed to exceed the requirements of a API GL-4 oil. But it might eat the synchos, although technically it shouldn't as if it exceeds the GL-4 spec. Personally I doubt it will and feel that was something of an overblown issue to begin with, probably exaggerated by the formulation of the early GL-5 oils that were quite likely to corrode yellow metals. There's lots of AX-15s running around with the cheapest 80w90 that the quick lube pumped into them, and failures are rare. A better oil might have been the Redline MT-90 75w90. I can't buy it easily, so I wouldn't. Amsoil MTG would probably be the best option, but it's quite pricey. Royal Purple probably makes something too. Motor oil does not have any extreme pressure additives, however using it (or even ATF) in geared transmissions has been popular for about the last 15 years. There doesn't seem to be any issues with using it, but that's a little hard to quantify. There's been a lot of threads on it over the years, but not really a lot of failures that you could point at being from the oil used. If your synchos are shot after 500000 miles, you probably shouldn't blame the oil. :rotfl2:

Flush it with a lot of water, and go from there? Got a pressure washer? Might do a good job, just don't force water into anything you care about. The alternator is probably toast.

I'm trying to download all my albums now... Not exactly working. Grr.

I gotta do mine in a bit here. Grr. A couple forums I'm on allow members to upload and embed images. It's good for preserving the images in the thread. But you need a fair whack more hosting to do it.

See the photobucket thread for explanation on the images...

Does that THOR intake use a 'regular' oiled cone filter? Is it going to rub the crap out of the valve cover, or is there something to stop that? It looks like it will since it only flexes at the throttle body end?

Ditto on the headliner, looks great. Was it an all new headliner, or just material and you put it over the old one with spray adhesive?

Looks like your paint guy cares about what he's doing. I hope it comes out as nice as you want.

Did the coil retainer just come loose, or did it strip out? Seems there's always something after you do a full teardown. I agree that if it's the only thing that you're doing really good. :rock on:

Looks like a solid starting point. :thumbsup: And you have a much coveted visor!

Tach? Tachometer? If so, you can swap in a like year range full gauge cluster. If you go from dummy lights to gauges you need to change out the temp/pressure switches for like year senders, otherwise they're normally more or less plug and play. There's a few threads on it in tech that clear up exactly what changes and what doesn't, and what years work and don't. You also need the cluster to come from a 6cyl model, or on the earlier ones there is an adjustment on the tach to allow them to work with either a 4cy or 6cyl. I believe you can basically use any 6cyl cluster from 84-90 with minimal issues. 91+ (HO) clusters don't work as the fuel gauge functions backwards. But like I said, there's some good threads in MJ Tech that really clear it up, I'm not always great at remembering every little detail.

Imgur. Photobucket is dead. They're just starting to implement this policy. It's already destroyed a lot of good tech on other sites.

I have off site storage too, out by the chicken coop at my buddy's place. Talk about inconvenient. I just cleaned up the XJ I left at my parents' house for 10 years. Feels good to not have to think about it anymore.

So you want to throw a couple grand worth of brakes at an axle that's worth maybe $200 and is pretty undesirable. Got it. I believe the analogy often used for this sort of situation is that you're putting lipstick on a pig. I'd start with a better axle. If you want to run bling blang high zoot race parts on it, sure, but I'm betting similar performance can be had for a lot less money. I guess what I'm getting at is I don't understand what you're planning to use this for or why you would want to run brakes like that, and at the same time would not justify a better axle. The ridiculously expensive Icon FJ doesn't clear that up for me either.

Not sure where you were going with this statement but heat, a hammer, and about 6 cans of pb blaster removes rear spring bolts on rust belt XJs. The front leaf spring bolt goes into a captive nut that's mostly inside the frame rail. They spin the captive nut. Then you can either fix it the right way or the wrong way, most guys do it the wrong way because it's a lot easier than doing it the right way. All XJs have the same wheel base, so I'm sure the 2-door and 4-door "frame" members are pretty much the same. Somebody did a really neat job getting the floor pans off that shell. They must have spent a week just drilling out spot welds They're the same. To the T. Yes, very different. Totally different shape past the splice just behind the tranny crossmember. Plus they put a hat piece on the floor to increase the height of the frame member. And added some other bracing. If you want to do it right to cut an XJ up and turn it into a quasi-MJ, it will be a lot of work. I'd probably cut way more of it apart than recommended and splice it at the tranny crossmember point or even at the LCA bracket area.

If they had the 242 tcase they were not CAD. I have an early non-CAD axle in my truck. What is the bigger picture on this? You want stock width, stock bolt pattern, bolt in a housing (no changing brackets on the axle itself), with really big brakes? Why? What are you doing with it? I've mentioned it before, but I really regret not just getting a set of JK axles and using them. There is bolt on big brake kits for them, and the brakes they come with are massive compared with the MJ/XJ stuff anyways. Plus you already get crossover steering. And, I've realized I'm rubbing the frame in the rear, so the width would have been nice. Oh, and IMHO those cartridge TREs are a great money grab. No thanks. Why not run the generic '1-ton' stuff? The advantage of it is it's available. Anywhere. Plus their generally isn't strength or longevity issues with it providing you buy decent TREs.

The topper is off a S10. I believe late 80s to mid 90s. It fits fairly decent but isn't quite right. It's held on with 4 aluminum canopy clamps (they're like a C clamp).

It was uh, 65ish today, if I did my cencible units to farchaic conversion right, sunny. I enjoyed adult beverages outside. Thought about hitting up one of the lakes... Maybe tomorrow.

:waving:

Doesn't seem like a bad price. Rockauto sells them too (Bishko is the brand), but they're more money than that. I'd assume these are exactly the same.

I just use a ratchet strap to the trans crossmember or to the tow hooks, depending which way it needs to go.