DirtyComanche

Hmm, that's an interesting idea, might have to play with that. Unfortunately I'm a little sidetracked right now with other projects. So I'm betting you'll come up with something before I do...

What brand of water pump is it? I had an issues with one before. I believe it was determined it was actually a TJ/WJ (much newer) casting, and there is slightly different offset on the pulleys between the earlier and later 4L.

Everything always is. They look good, and functional, though.

That's pretty bad. Okay, maybe that's an understatement.

How do you like the RCVs?

I always liked the turbine wheels. My first truck came with them. Your truck is looking good. Keep up the work on her. :thumbsup:

Wire wheel that stuff off. Run a vacuum in there while you do it, and wear a mask, the seam sealer crap is bad stuff to breathe. You should be able to get away with just cleaning it after that, then a zinc etch primer, and then top coating it with a good quality paint. If it's in the channel reinforcement then short of pulling it up probably the best thing is to get some of that Eastwood internal frame coating stuff. http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-internal-frame-coating-14oz-aerosol.html

Bumper looks good. :cheers:

For the record, you can put 10w30 in the tcase. NP/NV is not on board with it, but it's not likely to cause any issues. Anything thicker (gear oil) doesn't pump well and will cause issues. I don't think I'd do this, but maybe a 0w synthetic I'd consider... I don't feel there is much point in trying something like this either way though. The type of ATF you use in it does not really matter, +4 is only called for because the tcase is in a Chrysler application. They called for Dex/Merc prior to Chrysler. GM called for +3 in their NP231s. All the tcases are functionally the same. I wouldn't put straight 40w in a diff. :dunno: I use the same 75w140 synthetic in my axles as in my tranny. These choices are based on the assumption that I'm going to subject the components to massive abuse.

Anytime you get a D44 rear it's a good deal. :thumbsup:

The Peugeot case is split down the length of the trasmission, with a split line roughly on the very bottom and the very top. The AX-15 is a split by a band that goes around the entire case, near the shift tower. The Peugeot also uses some weird square metric internal plugs.

There's probably as many opinions on fluid to use as there is members of this forum. You're supposed to use an API GL-4 oil according to the OEM, but that is an obsolete standard. Chrysler later decided that 10w30 motor oil (IIRC) was acceptable. I used Lucas 75w140 Synthetic last time. It is a API GL-5 oil, and is listed to exceed the requirements of a API GL-4 oil. But it might eat the synchos, although technically it shouldn't as if it exceeds the GL-4 spec. Personally I doubt it will and feel that was something of an overblown issue to begin with, probably exaggerated by the formulation of the early GL-5 oils that were quite likely to corrode yellow metals. There's lots of AX-15s running around with the cheapest 80w90 that the quick lube pumped into them, and failures are rare. A better oil might have been the Redline MT-90 75w90. I can't buy it easily, so I wouldn't. Amsoil MTG would probably be the best option, but it's quite pricey. Royal Purple probably makes something too. Motor oil does not have any extreme pressure additives, however using it (or even ATF) in geared transmissions has been popular for about the last 15 years. There doesn't seem to be any issues with using it, but that's a little hard to quantify. There's been a lot of threads on it over the years, but not really a lot of failures that you could point at being from the oil used. If your synchos are shot after 500000 miles, you probably shouldn't blame the oil. :rotfl2:

Flush it with a lot of water, and go from there? Got a pressure washer? Might do a good job, just don't force water into anything you care about. The alternator is probably toast.

I'm trying to download all my albums now... Not exactly working. Grr.

I gotta do mine in a bit here. Grr. A couple forums I'm on allow members to upload and embed images. It's good for preserving the images in the thread. But you need a fair whack more hosting to do it.

See the photobucket thread for explanation on the images...

Does that THOR intake use a 'regular' oiled cone filter? Is it going to rub the crap out of the valve cover, or is there something to stop that? It looks like it will since it only flexes at the throttle body end?

Ditto on the headliner, looks great. Was it an all new headliner, or just material and you put it over the old one with spray adhesive?

Looks like your paint guy cares about what he's doing. I hope it comes out as nice as you want.

Did the coil retainer just come loose, or did it strip out? Seems there's always something after you do a full teardown. I agree that if it's the only thing that you're doing really good. :rock on:

Looks like a solid starting point. :thumbsup: And you have a much coveted visor!

Tach? Tachometer? If so, you can swap in a like year range full gauge cluster. If you go from dummy lights to gauges you need to change out the temp/pressure switches for like year senders, otherwise they're normally more or less plug and play. There's a few threads on it in tech that clear up exactly what changes and what doesn't, and what years work and don't. You also need the cluster to come from a 6cyl model, or on the earlier ones there is an adjustment on the tach to allow them to work with either a 4cy or 6cyl. I believe you can basically use any 6cyl cluster from 84-90 with minimal issues. 91+ (HO) clusters don't work as the fuel gauge functions backwards. But like I said, there's some good threads in MJ Tech that really clear it up, I'm not always great at remembering every little detail.

Imgur. Photobucket is dead. They're just starting to implement this policy. It's already destroyed a lot of good tech on other sites.

I have off site storage too, out by the chicken coop at my buddy's place. Talk about inconvenient. I just cleaned up the XJ I left at my parents' house for 10 years. Feels good to not have to think about it anymore.

So you want to throw a couple grand worth of brakes at an axle that's worth maybe $200 and is pretty undesirable. Got it. I believe the analogy often used for this sort of situation is that you're putting lipstick on a pig. I'd start with a better axle. If you want to run bling blang high zoot race parts on it, sure, but I'm betting similar performance can be had for a lot less money. I guess what I'm getting at is I don't understand what you're planning to use this for or why you would want to run brakes like that, and at the same time would not justify a better axle. The ridiculously expensive Icon FJ doesn't clear that up for me either.