Eagle_SX4

Those three bolts should be on the same plane (flat with each other). It looks like you will need to straighten that area of the frame.

With out a gasket it will leak for sure. The plug listed in the catalog probably comes with a new gasket.

I worked at a quick lube shop for a while. The aluminum and copper crush washers do work but it is difficult to remove them once they get smashed in to the threads of the drain plug. I usually use a fiber gasket. Most auto-parts stores should have some. I have even found that some hardware stores have them as well.

I think this is the post in question. It has .heic pics attached but are not visible. I think it's not the pics that are the problem but how they were uploaded/attached.

Thanks for the info. I will just drive it and not worry about right now.

I got my transfer case rebuilt and installed. The only thing I regret not doing is opening up the differential. It seems to be sticking when in full time mode. It seems to grab and then let go when doing tight turns. I might pull it apart again and see if I can rebuild that differential. I also changed the rear wheel bearings and seals on the 44. I was glad to have a press. The passenger side seal had started leaking badly and gear oil was leaking on to the tire and the brake drum was full of gear oil. The driver's side had started to leak but had not made it to the brakes or wheel yet.

It may be that your bolts are just loose try tightening the bolts on either end of the shaft before you replace it. I have seen that happen a few times.

I think someone used that hitch ball as a recovery point. Only a quick hard pull would cause that kind of bend in the bumper. Using a large press would be the easiest and safest way to straighten that back out. I agreed with @ThatJeepGuy you could back into something slowly in low range and push it back in. Just don't get to crazy with throttle.

Rebuilding my NP242 transfer case because the chain was worn and actually skipped a tooth a few weeks ago. That was a very loud concerning noise. Checked both driveshafts and axles and everything else is fine. Got a new chain along with new drive and driven gears. It will be going back together tomorrow.

I got a pic of the one I made. There was an existing threaded hole there.

I made a metal clip for mine and it works great I will get a pic tonight.

Here is the video on the install.

Yeah Wildwood makes a big brake kit that fits the early knuckles but not the later ones. It is expensive. https://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/BrakeKitSearch?year=1987&make=Jeep&model=Comanche&option=4+X+4+Only&axle=Front+Kit

Are you running adapters with those wheels? I saw in your build thread that they are Quadratec Hardrock wheels and those have a 5x5 bolt pattern.

If any one is interested this calculator shows your current offset/wheel size versus what you are thinking of running. Gives you a better understanding of how the bigger tires fit with different offsets and sizes. https://tiresize.com/wheel-offset-calculator/

There might be some confusion but I only changed the inner axle shafts not the entire axle assembly.

You can also change to single piece axle shafts from a TJ which does 2 things. 1, deletes the CAD and 2, gets you bigger stronger u-joints. This is what I did with mine.

I agree 285/75R16 is also a very popular size and would be a great option if I could find some TJ Moab rims.

Yes there supposed to be a seal under the pinion nut to stop oil from getting past the splines. I had this issue on my transfer case and just used some rtv instead of the seal and I haven't had any leaks.

This thread is probably the best compilation of all the shaft lengths in stock form.

I have decided to go to 33's but it won't be until next year. I am going to wait until the BFG K03 comes out in a 33x10.5R15. It is scheduled to be released Feb 2026. My current tires should last one more summer just need to get them rebalanced.

I found a posi lock in a junkyard once and started to pull it out. However I ended up leaving it at the junkyard because the person that installed it routed the cable to close to the exhaust and it melted the cable housing making the posi lock useless. If you do get a posi lock don't route the cable by the exhaust.

I already have 31x10.5R15's they clear just fine.

I am going to get new tires soon and was wondering what everyone's thoughts were on going to 33's versus staying with 31's. I have a 4.0 liter, AX15, NP242 and 4.10 gears. I have looked at the RPM difference and it should be about 100-150 lower RPM depending on speed. Just would like to here some opinions on the topic.

It probably has something to do with your right front wheel/tire/bearings. When turning left it loads that one harder. and because the noise goes away only when a higher load is applied there is probably an issue on that corner. I would guess a wheel bearing is starting to go out. Or the opposite is true and is unloading the left tire causing the bad bearing to be quiet.