JZLAJeep

Now I want to go buy 6 more of these!

The owner of the Jeep they were on was going to get aftermarket wheels and toss the turbines. I had to save them! Had to have something to trade because they still needed tires and wheels.

Nice! Thanks for sharing!

Traded some 5 spoke steelies for turbine wheels (with hubcaps!) straight up.

Nice Job!

Also made the oil filter neck conversion (RIP Cruiser54) Old neck was too long for even my deep sockets, so made it shorter Don't have a vice, so improvised New Also gave the cooling system a DEEP flush. Despite earlier flushing, the coolant was mostly rust water. Giving a deep flush a try before deciding to replace the whole cooling system. The water ran rusty for quite a while before going clear. Didn't take pictures, but followed bleepinjeep's tips.

This is a long overdue update from Christmas break. We made our nearly annual trip to brother-in-law's diesel shop and it was the Comanche's turn again. Doors Replaced guts of passenger door (regulator and glass from donor door, popped out dent) Replaced driver side Side Mirror Mount Bracket (thanks @Dzimm) New door glass seals on both windows New door lock cylinders Engine and stuff Replaced lifters Replaced push rods Replaced valve stem seals Deleted EGR Serviced front and rear differentials and added drain plugs New lower shifter boot There's still a tick when the engine starts, but it seems to go away now, which is an improvement. Still something there, but we tried and had some fun. Door repair Valve cover off. Lots of gunk Rocker arms and push rods removed Head off Lunch break Blown exhaust manifold gasket Valve removal Differential drain plug Reassembling differential EGR delete Made our own cover from some scrap aluminum around the shop Bottom of intake manifold Before and after exhaust manifold Reassembly - Much cleaner going back together. Sons did a great job cleaning everything Work done feast at Arctic Circle Bought T-shirts for everyone including little brother Loaded up to go home and bringing back a hand-me down tool box too! (behind the cab) Shifter boot

We've found metal ones at the junk yard.

Dusting this thread back off... We have the passenger door panel off for replacing the insides of the door. We've never had keys to the door lock cylinders and are considering replacing the locks before replacing the vapor barrier and reinstalling the door card. Would be nice to be able to lock the doors, but so far the condition of the vehicle, millennial anti-theft device 5-speed transmission, and general honesty of people in Idaho have worked well enough... This thread and this other thread have been helpful. It appears that the following parts are all the same and will work. https://tinyurl.com/4366sbv6 https://tinyurl.com/4yxraaz7 https://tinyurl.com/3nc62zy6 I have read that the door lock cylinders can be re-keyed. We have a door key for our CJ that could pull double duty as the door key for the MJ too. If we re-keyed, what are some beginner level instructions for doing so? Ultimately, our options are: Continue to ignore the non-working door locks Replace the lock cylinders Re-key the existing lock cylinders

Did this yesterday. This was a successful order of installation.

Those OEM 2x6 are tough to find!

Hoping it doesn't come to that. We'll see... We'll be turning wrenches on it starting next Monday.

Where was this earlier when I needed it?!?

Appreciate the feedback that we are on the right track.

That makes sense. We aren't taking the engine out. We'll see what we can do for heat. Maybe we'll get a good look at the exhaust manifold and see that it's in perfect condition... Wishful thinking anyway...

Since we've owned the Comanche, the passenger door window has never worked very well. It needs a new regulator. We recently acquired a door off of a '93 XJ with manual windows for the regulator. Since the windows in that door are a little better than the windows in the MJ we figured we might as well swap those while we were at it. This weekend we disassembled the donor door to remove the regulator, window, triangle window, and weather strip. BleepinJeep's video was extremely helpful in disassembling everything. Basically, the window comes out last. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pd-8nG7c8b4 However, in the video, he replaces the square and triangle windows with the larger 97+ window and so there are no instructions on how to put the two windows back in. Specifically, we're wondering how to get the square window back in. What we are thinking is install the regulator, put the square window in the bottom of the door, install the triangle window, install the weather strip, then attach the square window to to the regulator. Does that order sound right? Any tips or tricks? We plan to do this in a shop 350 miles from home when we are doing lifters. So driving home from eastern Idaho in the winter without a window isn't an option.

Parts ordered and are trickling in. Space in bro-in-law's shop confirmed. The Comanche is on Santa's nice list.

Thanks for the great information! In the quote above, I guess you hope the task is done before the MJ catches fire?

Have recommendations? The Enginetech L2011 lifters seem to be the ones commonly used.

Thanks for the recommendation. Certainly something we want to get right the first time.

I think the odds that there is a cracked manifold or leaky gasket are moderate to high. If we tear down to the lifters (which is likely), we are planning to thoroughly examine the manifold before it's reinstalled. A question for you, can cracked manifolds be welded? I know it would be better to replace, but every repair is weighed against the question, "is the repair appropriate for the condition of the vehicle," which means "good enough" is often where we end up. But, if we have the engine torn down that far, it would be nice to put it back right.

We are thinking of doing our nearly annual sequestration in the bro-in-laws shop over Christmas break and taking on our latest "biggest project we've ever done." We think we have lifter issues. At low RPM there is an audible tick. The tick goes away when accelerating and elevated RPMs. The tick is worse when the engine is cold, but is still noticeable when the engine is warm and idling. Are we correctly diagnosing a lifter tick? Plan to at least take off the valve cover and check the rocker arms and will keep digging if we don't like what we see. Are we on the right track? Parts list: Valve cover gasket (Fel-Pro VS50522T) Head Gasket (Fel-Pro 530SD) Manifold Gasket (Fel-Pro MS93680) Valve Lifters (Qty 12) (Enginetech L2011) recommend better? Anything you'd add to this list without blowing the budget?

Unless you can be as cool as this guy I'll never sell my '95 2 door, 5-speed XJ. Owned it since 2001.

The struggle is real!

235/75/R15 is what I've run on stock height XJ/MJ for almost 2 decades now. 235/75 does seem to be the upper limit for what fits and we've noticed that even in the same size there is variation between tire styles and brands. The 235/75 that we currently have on the MJ and one of the XJs do rub if turning hard to the left. Turning right doesn't cause rubbing. On the aforementioned XJ, I'd never had the rubbing issue until this current set of tires that is a different brand than I had been running before so pretty easy to conclude that it was the tires. Also concluded that it's a left turn issue since we've now seen the same issue on multiple vehicles. In each case we are running stock XJ/MJ wheels although they may not be the wheels that were on the vehicle when it rolled off the assembly line. We aren't replacing the tires until they need to be replaced so for now, just remembering not to turn left too hard and will wait to see if the rubbing lessens or goes away once the tires wear some more.