scaleless

Does it immediately shut off, or does it lose power and sputter out? Does the issue happen while cruising or only at idle?

Isn't there supposed to be a check valve built into the Renix vacuum canister? Either it's that or a fairly significant vacuum leak. Engine vacuum naturally drops under load to the point where the AC can't hold its settings.

The pump is mounted to the fuel sender. Both fuel injected and carbureted engines have a sender, the difference is fuel injection commonly uses an in-tank pump and carbureted applications commonly use a block-mounted pump, with exceptions.

I would start at the steering wheel and move down. While it rarely fails, check the tulip joint on the steering shaft. Turn the wheel with the vehicle off and watch to see if the two sides of the steering shaft seem to move independently. The joins on the shaft could have play as well. Steering shaft failures are much more common when you've been offroading. Also make sure the steering box spacer and the frame where the box is bolted to do not have any cracks or damage. Look for play in the steering box afterwards, then the ball joints on the drag link. When you say it's wandering, do you mean the steering wheel is just getting forced around, or that the vehicle wanders without any steering feedback? The former doesn't rule out suspension issues.

I don't think they're in backwards, because the indicators and brake lights are 1156 bulbs, right? You can't put those in backwards like a 194 or similar bulb.

Ha, well, if you didn't cut it already it would be a lot easier! There are a lot of duplicate wire colors on the bulkhead connector and the wire colors change slightly through the years. What year is your Comanche? There is one red or red with a white stripe wire that powers the headlight switch and one green wire that powers the ignition switch (and gives 12v switched power to everything else). Both need to be connected to constant +12v. I think that's just about it for wires going in. There's a dark green wire coming out to energize the starter solenoid and a yellow +12v ignition wire for the coil, if you need. I think that's about it, unless you want wires for oil pressure/temp senders and such.

When you say the blinkers aren't blinking, do they not come on at all or do they come on but not blink? If it's the latter, you need a new flasher module. Change the other lights back to the known working bulbs, that way you can eliminate if it's the new bulbs or if you accidentally messed up the socket or something.

I mean, it's not really the pump wires, it's the sender wires. And that's an MTS sender. MTS is the only aftermarket manufacturer for the fuel sender.

This is the view under my truck. Black-black (ground) Purple-brown (fuel sender) Grey-Orange (switched 12v)

Well that was me :) I needed a better bucket to go get reupholstered. The truck is definitely rust-free except for the floor, which is completely gone. Some idiot installed the rear window and there are huge gaps in it and it clearly let a lot of water in the cab.

I got 12 points in History if I get partial credit, I have no idea what most of the grammar questions are asking, and I think I just barely pass the others. I think our education standards have declined a bit in the last 100 years lol

Yeah, that is definitely backwards. Also no offense but that is probably the worst solder joint I've ever seen.

Probably because that would be 10-15x more expensive.

I was staring at this for like 5 minutes wondering why it looked so off before realizing its actually a Cherokee That's neat! Where'd you find this?

I know on Renix the Auto computer has a higher idle and 96+ throws a CEL, but I think Torq is right and 91-95 there's no reason to swap computers.

Rubber dampens better, poly lasts longer. It's just what you value more. I really don't think there would be a significant difference with the stock-style mount. If you're just looking to replace worn mounts, you really can't go wrong no matter what you buy, be it original or upgraded mounts, brand, bushing material, whatever.

There are 2 '96 Cherokees in my local scrapyards. I'll take a look this weekend to see if they have unmolested harnesses.

One thing to check is that the full guage cluster has different engine temp and oil pressure senders - if someone swapped the guages without swapping the sensors, you'd get nonfunctional guages. The tach, speedo, and fuel guages would still work in that case, however.

I disagree - I think the resin would impregnate the cardboard and strengthen it and wouldn't likely crack. If that's even a concern, though, why not add a layer of fiberglass cloth? That would give the desired result and significantly strengthen the door card.

When you say the guages do not work, do you mean ALL the guages, tach, temp, oil, etc? Or specific ones?

Very interesting!

He actually did touch on this around 12:39

I agree - a simple failure of the switch. But as Zomeizter said, the switch was likely malfunctioning from the beginning and your high side pressure could very easily have exceeded a safe level. Hopefully it didn't cause any additional damage if so.

Did you ensure the steering reservoir is still full after turning the wheel a few times? You'll have to top the reservoir up a time or two if the system is completely dry. Is the pump making a clacking noise? It generally does so when there are significant amounts of air in the system. The fact that your steering improves when moving means you have no power steering. A turning wheel exhibits far less friction while rotating than it does stationary.