scaleless

I've got a TJ-clocked case going in my MJ. Guess I'll be the Guinea Pig seeing if it works! Might be a while, but I'll post the results.

That is an internal slave. External slave looks like this:

I mean, you can do that if you want to spend all your money on oil. The reason you add it to dirty oil is because it will dissolve the sludge in the engine into the oil, which you would then theoretically change. Adding it to oil before a change, no matter how dirty, is the correct use.

That is ABSURD! I've never heard a shop say that. My local shop doesn't even do steel plugs unless you specifically request them because brass is such a cheap upgrade.

I guarantee you less than 5% of owners use oil suitable for flat tappets or even know what a camshaft is. That'll significantly reduce its expected service life. Like Cruiser said, Seafoam and MMO will clean the engine out - very thoroughly, in fact - and can quiet lifters if they are blocked. They definitely won't restore a worn cam or lifters, though. Both MMO and Seafoam work much better in appropriate quantities, though, and due to the relative cost I see people putting a lot more MMO in their crankcase than Seafoam. I prefer Seafoam, but your mileage may vary.

That is what immediately came to mind when I read it - I thought some new guy bored it out too large and they tried to avoid responsibility. Did they return your block?

No, it unfortunately is not.

If you mean it's physically taller, then yeah I believe the TJ shifter is taller. But it has a shorter shift throw. The shifter seperates in two and the lower part of the shifter is what needs to be matched to the shift tower. You should be able to just find an XJ upper shifter and easily just push it on in the truck. I think that'll net you a physically shorter shifter.

I don't fight losing battles! I just budget 2 hours of wiping things down for every minute of bolting things in.

95+% of its use is going to be on the road, most likely, so I should appreciate the ratio change.

Maybe it was so limited that they only made one!

And also remember that running heavier oil is masking the problem, not solving it.

I believe the TJ shifter is the one with a shorter shift. But no, they don't interchange - you need to match the shifter with the shift tower.

Oh, did I mention these cool upgrades? WJ steering box with 12.7 steering ratio! Came from a really nice WJ in the junkyard. It had a sticker saying it was rebuilt less than 6 months ago, so it's brand new. And yes, I checked that it's still the 12.7 ratio and not 14.0. '96 Cherokee dual diaphragm brake booster! To complement the eventual rear disks I'll throw on sometime in the future. And Brown Dog motor mounts, because I wasn't nearly poor enough!

For a price like that, we'll see it a few more.

Had my first DOH moment working on the truck. Threw a shifter on the AX15 after mating it to the transfer case to verify everything was working, and DOH it didn't go into first or fifth. Which was weird, considering it shifted beautifully on the bench. Well, after an hour of banging my head against the wall, I found the problem, and it's kinda dumb: I can't believe I wasted like 4 hours of my life on this. The supposed TJ shifter - from a tall shift tower AX15 - seems to actually be from an XJ. VERY annoying. Anyone need an AX15 shifter?

I sprayed it through my 1.6mm HVLP @15psi thinned about 10%ish. Thinned more than the can says to, but I've tested it before and it goes on much smoother. I just kinda mix it by eye anyways. I've sprayed it @20-30psi before without thinning and it works just fine, but it goes on a little too thick, I think.

Watch out, it might not even feel like a few more months before he's driving that Comanche!

But when the government finds out, they'll hurt you! Haha, I'm only kidding, in this case I agree - I don't know about the state laws where you're at, but replacing the odometer is perfectly acceptable without matching the reading. The federal law states that altering the odometer reading with the intent to defraud is illegal. That's clearly not the case here, especially if you don't sell the car.

Well here we are with the interior coming along nicely. I've got temporary 2DR XJ buckets going in shortly. Maybe permanent if I get them recovered, I'm not sure. I'll cross that bridge when I get there. No radio or climate control at the moment, because who has the time for that! I got an engine to install! I also have a clock, but I forgot to put it in before I slapped the bezel on. Ooops! Also, I guess I said I'd paint the TC, huh? The color is called "Aluminum," but that's bull - they should call it Argent Silver! But I definitely can't complain how it sprays! I'm constantly impressed by POR-15 products. It's almost like they get better every time I use them. You can spray it on way too heavy and it somehow doesn't run or discolor. It just kinda rolls with it. Great! Now it matches the transmission, at least! I'm HOPING next update will see them mated together and going in with an engine. Still waiting on RockAuto parts, though! One of the packages got shipped with DHL, and as I expected, it's 3 days late now. DHL is the worst!

Correct. If you can, measure your crank just in case. If your engine ever got swapped, you could have a different crank.

You can't just swap to the later bushing because they also changed the size of the crank hole. You'll have to get a bushing from Novak: https://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/pilot-bushings/amc-ax15/

89 - 91 shaft is 19/32", 92- is 3/4". The shaft should be able to wobble sideways and up/down slightly, but should not have any in-and-out play.

The transmission was probably replaced, but they kept the existing bellhousing/slave cylinder setup TAG NUMBER YEAR 52107811 1997 52107812 1997 52108010 1993 52108036 1994-96 52108047 1994-96 52108048 1994-96 52108050 1994-96 52108465 1996 52108532 1997 52109035 1994-96 53005360 1989-91 53005385 1989-91 53005386 1989-91 53007862 1992 53007863 1992-93 53007864 1992-93 53009526 1992-96 53009528 1992-93 53009529 1992-93 53009530 1992-93