scaleless

Haha yeah I'm actually keeping up with the threads here a little bit, I've just been too busy to post. But I have email notifications on for mentions and such so I won't miss any of those.

Oh... yeah that was me lmao. Was it really that long ago? Wow. I need to actually finish that project. They've been sitting in the "to do" section of my lab desk for ages. I should probably bump that to this weekend's project. I can definitely send one to Warren if you want to sell one to him. As far as I'm concerned they're still technically yours.

Here's both.

I'll get right on it

Hi, yes, I'm alright! I've been really busy since the hurricane with home repairs and work stuff and I really just haven't been getting on the internet at all recently. There is an end in sight, theoretically I'll have free time starting in December! I do have time to cut that wheel pic out for you when I get back from work today, though, Pete.

Baton Rouge, LA $60 + shipping if you send your old one. That's half the usual price.

This doesn't really make any sense to me, even after studying the wiring diagrams. Are you sure it's not a coincidence? As far as the brightness, all LED bulbs are not made equal. In my experience the ones sold by parts stores are hot crap. You can also buy amber and red LED bulbs that greatly reduce the amount of light filtered through the lens. These are especially useful behind the instrument cluster, as bright white LEDs tend to wash out the thin color filters on the guage cluster over time.

I've bought a bunch of Transit Connects in the last few years for my company and they were in the 7k-9k range but I haven't bought any since the market exploded. All are 2011-2014 though, and they ALL needed new motor mounts. I think companies just dump them when the mounts go bad.

From my understanding the TV cable (the one you mentioned being tight, going from the throttle to the transmission) controls shift points, and the automatic TPS controls downshifting when you give it gas. Like Jdog mentioned, check the TPS. As Cruiser mentions on his site, the 4-wire connector feeds the TCU and the 3-wire connector feeds the ECU. Make sure its adjusted properly and that the signal is getting all the way to the TCU.

I already took off for work, but I can definitely get those things for you this afternoon. And maybe a clearer, brighter pic, too As for the vacuum diagram, yeah it's missing. Don't think it's there on any 87 I've seen. Maybe some other guys can confirm that its normally like that.

Here's my '87.

Ah, the fake snorkel. A classic.

I can take a pic of my 87 when I get home in a few days. The sticker is in good shape.

I find the cloth to be much more comfortable as well.

All of my parts come from Quadratec. Haven't had any problems other than some synchro profiles being wrong because they changed a bunch throughout the years. https://www.quadratec.com/jeep-replacement-parts/jeep-transmissions/ax15.php https://www.quadratec.com/products/52113_10.htm

This seems like way more effort than it takes to just repair any vacuum lines lol

I was looking into this before, and there's a lot of companies who will remake your emissions label... except they only sell to collision centers. What's up with that? Anyways, looks like we'll have to get someone on the forums to make em, and it doesn't help that there's some pretty big year-to-year changes with them, too! If anyone does step up, I want one for 87!

Ambient temperature plays a big role in viscosity at startup, but once the engine reaches operating temperature it should be extremely negligible. It's been nearly 100F outside every day and my new 4.0 is running pegged at max pressure until it's warm, but drops a little to 55 or 60 when warm at idle. It does have a brand new Melling pump though - not sure how much that impacts it despite it being labeled as standard volume.

Are you saying its 10-15psi when warm on the highway? What RPM is that? If that's 2500+ RPM that's VERY low. I'm pretty sure the spec at idle is 13+psi and I assume the oil light comes on when it dips below 13. Ideally I would like to see much more than that, though. Before you do anything, though, rent an external guage from your local auto parts store and slap that on you verify your guage and sender.

To be fair, if it takes LPL more than 30 seconds to pick it you might as well classify it as one of the best

All the ones It looks different because this one has the transducer located in the EGR body, which is why the body on it is so comparatively massive. Someone on NAXJA said these don't pass CA emissions, but I don't think anyone particularly cares if that's true

Pilot bushings are made from oil-impregnated bronze that release oil from microscopic pores as they wear down.

When a diode or transistor burns up it can fail open-circuit or closed-circuit. If the latter it'll probably cause unintentional paths to ground which will likely cause failures elsewhere and testing may give very weird readings.

yup

If you want to convert the AX15 from 2WD to 4WD, you will need to replace the tailcone AND the output shaft, the former of which is only available from a 4WD AX15 anyways so in no world would it be reasonable to swap it unless you already had 2 broken transmissions. Additionally, that transmission has an external slave Bearing retainer on it so it most definitely has the larger, 3/4" pilot and will need a special pilot bushing that Big Dan mentioned unless either your engine or the transmission have been modified.