scaleless

Yes.

It does drop to 30 or so at idle, yes. My flywheel is a Luk LFW194.

I've also got a high altitude CPS.

The distributor is properly indexed, and I already put a timing light on to see if there was a timing issue and it's idling at 20 btdc. Can't really see how much it increases with throttle because of all the sputtering. I would love to break in the engine before playing around so much, but it won't get above 1200 RPM or so. As another note, I also verified all injectors are connected in the correct order.

Right, finally got to the first real big problem of my build. New engine, new electricals, new everything for the most part. I've only run the engine for seconds at a time as I do not have the cooling system installed yet, but it starts right up faster than I've ever seen a Renix start and idles great. As soon as the throttle is opened even a little bit, however, it starts missing on multiple cylinders with an even cadence and randomly backfiring out the exhaust. An inspection of the plugs shows it's running very, very rich. The plugs are dripping with fuel. All vacuum ports are plugged for testing. It is currently running remanufactured 746 injectors which I expect is the problem even though I randomized the injectors twice and the cadence of the misfire did not change. I checked the MAP sensor with a meter and a vacuum pump and it is reading as expected. The MAP line holds a vacuum and if I pull the line, the engine sputters and dies. I tested the IAT and CTS and they are both reading expected values. If I unplug either, there is a slight change in the idle but the symptoms do not change. I swapped them anyways since I had extras on hand and nothing changed. The grounds are new and fresh, and also test fine. The fuel pressure is pegged at 40. I ran the engine with an inline spark tester on every plug and I'm getting spark as expected. I previously performed a compression test and each cylinder put out exactly 150psi within a few cranks with no deviation. 20210703_223346-small.mp4 Anyways, I was going to swap to some known working stock injectors to isolate that as an issue, and wanted some input from the forums. Just spit out some ideas.

The coolant temp is a factor in fuel ratio, but it definitely wouldn't be enough to cause a no-start.

That looks like an AX15, but it's really hard to tell from just a photo. Best way to check is put a magnet on the middle plate - AX5 is iron, AX15 is aluminum.

The, uh, gigantic, colorful link in his signature.

I can photoshop them to be round later today, if you want.

Well those can both easily be checked. Slide the boot off the end of the wire to check the crimps at the end, and put a fuel pressure gauge on the rail. Boom, diagnosis.

But before we go about replacing any parts, how about some tests? Check for fuel pressure and check for spark when the truck isn't starting.

I'm currently running a WVE 5S1800 to great effect. This is the High Altitude sensor, however. If you test it with an AC meter as Cruiser54 instructs in his tips, it outputs 400mV.

...except it's just about over!

If you were planning on rebuilding your existing transfer case, then go ahead and use the one you have - you can get new input gears for them for cheaper than a new case. Otherwise grab the one matched to your transmission.

They're hard to find in some areas. Don't be afraid to use car-part.com and searchtempest.com to find one nearby. I had to drive 300 miles to get mine, but got an amazing deal.

If you have a pile of cash that you want to part with, AX15s are being sold new through Novak.

I think they missed the point of side exhaust...

"Pre-gapped" just means "probably close enough"

For the leaking return line, buy Dorman 800-013. It comes with 3/8 and 5/16 fuel o rings, you want the 3/8. As for the idle miss, first ensure all your spark plug wires are firmly seated on the plugs. It's very easy to have them slightly off. Did you gap your plugs properly? I don't think you mixed up the firing order, otherwise it would be a very bad miss, but do consult this image: What model number are your injectors?

Touching the terminals together would discharge any energy stored in the ECU, but it's probably not necessary. Additionally, I don't think the Renix ECU operates with any stored memory anyways, so that shouldn't be necessary.

Definitely not just CJ/Wrangler guys. I frequently wave at/get waved by XJ Cherokees.

A YJ transmission clocks the tcase up towards the floor. When I did mine, I had about 1/4" or so of clearance, but I took a hammer to the floor just in case.

Very cute, I love it!

Why would you go through the effort to buy an early AX15 if you swap an external slave onto it? Just get a 94+ transmission.