scaleless

Frankly I would clean off the block so you can see exactly where the oil is coming from, replace the air filter and the valve cover gasket since they're cheap and easy, and just monitor the engine for a while. Do a compression test if you have the ability to. Oil on the air filter isn't 100% indicative of excessive blowby - it will naturally find its way to the airbox because of the PCV system and if they never change the filter it will start to get soiled. I've driven vehicles with absolutely ludicrous blowby for long times - just make sure the oil is topped off and you'll be more-or-less ok. Once you understand exactly what's going on with the engine, you can get an idea if it needs a rebuild or not. You say you drove it 3 hours with no problems, so it's not nearly as bad as it could be. My Corvette's old engine blew a quart and a half an hour out of the seals and drove just fine.

Ah! Well, I don't want to push too hard to change your mind, but rebuilding an engine is very easy. With a Haynes manual and no experience at all, I did mine all-in with the cost of tools and everything for just under $700. As for the original question, I don't know much about Dahmer. But I also haven't heard anything negative, for what it's worth. Generally I've found that if you're not getting your engine done by Bubba down the road and you're not trying to squeeze out 300HP over stock, you're probably good to go.

The pump is an Airtex E7001, which is correct for 2.5L engines. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000DZ9MMO I'm not really sure about the sender but it looks like it was replaced with the pump - way too clean for original, I think.

Especially after factoring in shipping, reman blocks in general are just not very cost-efficient. Get a local machine shop to clean yours up or if it's for some reason beyond repair, just pull a block out of a scrapyards and bring it to the machine shop. It'll come out to way less.

For BA10 or AX15? AX15: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=932883&cc=1180314 BA10: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00108E3P4

Awesome, glad it's fixed! And thanks for the update!

Ha, don't worry, as far as dumb things we all do go, that's one of the least dumb! You'll need to step up your dunce game if you want to roll with the rest of us.

You sure you got the right one? I checked on ebay just a day ago and only saw JPSU-5s available from the MTS resellers and not JPSU-6s. Not doubting you, just want to make sure you got the right one!

Dang. If it sells, a price like that almost makes sense to just order a few dozen extrusions from an aluminum shop instead. Sell em as replicas for a big profit.

That was a long snooze!

The zinc is critical, but definitely won't repair any existing damage. A wiped cam is a wiped cam!

Ha! When I asked about it he mentioned that people had been hounding him for years about it. I guess that was you! He made it sound like he still really didn't want to give it up when I bought it, but he also didnt want to deal with it anymore given the shop was being closed and it would cost a penny to get it towed. I guess I got lucky! And thanks for the offer to help! The truck hasn't gotten out of hand just yet, but I'm sure it'll give me some trouble sometime! I'll be sure to give a holler.

15 year bump, that's impressive.

Right, might as well check and clean up your fuel pump ground, which is behind the driver's side tail light. Remove the tail light assembly and it'll be right there. You clearly have a fuel issue, so if that doesn't improve the issue I would rent a fuel pressure tester from a local auto parts store and give it a check.

Available from MTS, part # JPSU-6P4.0 http://www.mtscompany.com/sendingunits.htm I don't know what pump they use, but they're definitely not all equal. The forums here like Bosch pumps for good reason. You might want to get the model without a pump and throw a Bosch pump in.

That is such a clean stall when you let off it has to be electrical. I think Jdog is right about the clutch pressing or pulling a wire or something along those lines. It's very odd!

If you think that's magic, you should have tried methylene chloride strippers before nanny government stepped in to make sure we couldn't hurt ourselves and banned it! That said, I haven't had any luck with citristrip. It strips rattlecan paint and other weaker finishes really well, but it doesn't really do anything to tougher stuff like automotive paint. My favorite is Kleenstrip Aircraft, even after they swapped to a non-methylene chloride formula.

Doesn't start or doesn't crank over at all with the clutch released? If something was binding, I would expect no crank or a very noisy crank.

The video you posted sounds exactly like piston slap, and the comments seem to agree. As oil heats up and flows better, it makes sense that the noise would quieten up as well. Doesn't sound like flexplate or flexplate bolt noise, which would be rythmic with respect to the flexplate position, but if you slow it down and time it, it seems to hit about once or twice per stroke for 700rpms, which would mean any of the reciprocating components. Given it's louder on the bottom end, piston/rod-related sounds more likely than valvetrain like you said. Then again, that's diagnosing his vehicle, not yours. If I were in your shoes, once I was done with Cruiser's tests I would start pulling plugs and stick a borescope down at #6 BDC and moving forward looking for abnormal wear. You mentioned you had one, so you're already set up and it doesn't hurt to look.

Safelite is exactly the bottom-barrel installer I was referring to haha Obviously the install quality varies by location so check your local reviews, but Safelite manufactures their own glass which is wholly inferior to OEM glass. They also source OEM glass by availability, so you sometimes luck out but don't know what you're getting until it's in. I can't speak for the Comanche in particular, but on a lot of models Safelite's glass is a lot thinner than OEM and the metal windshield trim will not fit as a result. This obviously doesn't matter if you're going with the later rubber seal, though. Anecdotally, the thinner glass also seems to chip and crack a lot easier, too, but I don't have any numbers to back that up. I have also not seen but heard of the glass layers delaminating on Safelite glass. Anyways, I don't like Safelite. That's my 2c

Don't be afraid to pay more - I've had many disasters with the bottom-barrel installers! Windshield frame damage, windshields not adhering properly, butyl strip installation on late-model cars...

Hard to tell without hearing it, but temp-dependent noise like you're describing is usually an exhaust leak. Renix exhaust manifolds very commonly crack and cause a leak.

In that guide you can see he used shims to drop the crossmember down to match the drop of the AX15 crossmember, which does get your driveline angles back to factory at the cost of an inch or so of ground clearance. For the transmission clocking, here's a write-up of someone swapping: https://www.stu-offroad.com//engine/aw-4b/aw-4b-4.htm Take a look at the holes and see if it matches yours. That's an AW4, but the idea is the same - there's an obvious area for the holes, and if they're aligned CCW then it's a XJ/MJ trans and if they're CW it's a Wrangler. I think some people have fit the transmission in without clocking it like Pete, so it might fit but it'll be tight.

First I would start by cleaning the sensor grounds if you haven't, and completing Cruiser's relevant Renix tips while you're at it. http://cruiser54.com/ If you've already done so, I would start by testing your IAT, then checking for a MAP line leak. The data from these is used to calculate air density, of which a wrong reading would lead to the issue you're describing.

I have not experience but have heard of proportioning valves getting internally seized, which kinda sounds like what you're describing.