scaleless

'90, too, I think.

This is the thermocouple Torq is referring to. It releases the compressor clutch when the evaporator temp drops below a certain amount. Ignore the bubba job here - someone replaced it and had no idea what they were doing. It's upside-down and the vapor line needs to go all the way into the evaporator. I just replaced the blower resistor in mine and RockAuto shows the same part #s for both 87 and 92 so I don't think that's different, unless my blower doesn't work and I have yet to find out, ha!

I'll take em! I have a frame on the wall with a few old keys and blanks I'd love to put it with.

Ugh, you know, I really didn't need to spend any more money today! Thanks for posting, I was looking for one of these.

Do you know how the fire started? Kind of an odd place! Something super-flammable got sucked up against the heater core, perhaps?

It's easy to forget the military is a government agency, but there's your answer!

I'm a big fan of Cadillac styling going way back. This thing looks killer!

I love that attitude!

Short update for now - I got way more done recently but in my efforts scrambling to get things moving on the truck combined with the fact that I work upwards of 80 hours a week, I haven't been able to make an update. I'll have a lot of time now, however, as I'll share in a bit, but first...! I'm relooming all the wires in that nice braided split loom from Amazon. Will it pick up an absurd amount of road debris and oil? Heck yeah, probably! Does it look hella good before that happens? Definitely! Will anyone see this behind the dash? Of course not! But I'll know. I rebuilt the heater box with a new heater core, AC evaporator core, and replacement foam seals in most areas. All the parts went through an ultrasonic cleaner so it probably won't smell like mud and death when it runs! I hope. Oh, also, grabbed an '89 parts Cherokee a while back for the seats, wiring harnesses, transfer case, and as a reference for originality because the engine had been swapped in my truck and I couldn't easily tell what was original and what was Bubba. I'm swapping the front harnesses to be rid of the C101. I could easily have got a better Cherokee for the price but I could not bring myself to rip parts from one that wasn't already destined for the junkyard! Most other parts from this are for sale, so let me know if anyone needs something! As for the reason I can't work on the truck? Well, I yanked the dash out of that Cherokee to grab a few things... And I threw it on the floor near where I was working. And I was wearing my crappy old work shoes with holes in them, right? Well the next time I walked past the dash this afternoon, one of the holes snagged those hooks that mount it to the kick panel area and I completely wiped out across the floor and broke my elbow. So I've been having fun rolling around in excruciating pain and missing a functional arm! I've never broken anything before - what a chump way to make my first! Anyways, I'll post some of the backlog of stuff I completed but hadn't posted about tomorrow, when I hopefully regain some ability to move my arm.

Those look killer! So much so that I just went out and bought a set, ha!

I believe the Renix alternator is simply a Delco CS130 alternator and rebuild parts from any CS130 alternator should work.

Interior lights for 1961-1998 Porsche 911s - very common and still produced by Hella. Here is a new one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Interior-Dome-Light-For-61-98-Porsche-911-356B-356C-356SC-912-930-Turbo-PQ25K6-/202578503148?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286 There are a few used ones up as well. Theres also an actual set of poor-condition Comanche lights on ebay right now: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-of-2-1986-92-Jeep-Comanche-MJ-OEM-B-Pillar-Interior-Lights-/184439265033?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286 Side note, and I don't think anyone has tried it yet, but the dome lights for Targa Porsches is slightly different and looks a lot like what's in our trucks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/HELLA-nEw-Interior-Dome-Light-Lamp-With-Black-Frame-for-Porsche-911-912-928-930-/312675233163?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286 It might be a much better fit, but I'd be worried the dimensions are slightly too small

A good pair of interior lights might be hard to find. If that's a bust, take a look at an alternative:

The transmission is stupid simple, don't be afraid of it! I just did mine. The factory rebuild manual is very easy to follow and there are many video guides if you get lost. Worst case scenario, $200 AX15 kit, $150 transfer case kit, $150 shop press + bearing separator $500 flat. So much better than a $2k-3k rebuilt unit, and you get the added bonus of bragging about it when people ask about your truck. That's why we have Comanches, right?

That wrap looks killer! And way better than bedliner, being easily removable. Quite expensive and not easily DIY-able though. I wrapped my Audi before and despite my care it came out fairly awful haha

It's E12, and I don't recommend a 12-point - that sounds like a good way to start rounding the head! Inverse torx sockets are available from Home Depot, Lowes, and most auto parts stores. Also Amazon, of course, if you can wait 2 days.

Er... I definitely think even the best bedliner job would look like a disaster compared to this beautiful two-tone

4x4 AX15 is about 90lbs, and the BA10 feels slightly lighter than that. 2WD is probably a little heavier, so I bet your 100lb estimate is right on the money.

I recommend removing it - I managed to smash mine up pretty awful getting my BA10 out because I left it there.

Your wiring appears to be correct, the only thing I would be worried about is that square wave signal - since it's coming from the ECU, I don't think you can be confident that it's the exact waveform that the MSD box is expecting, but if it just triggers on the positive edge, you're good. And it's probably just the CPS signal, which should be perfect. I'm definitely no expert on either the Renix ECU or MSD ignition systems. Anyways, I've heard of people using MSD boxes in Renix Cherokees before so I expect it works just fine.

I agree with Jdog - corrosion and crud commonly gunk up the dimmer portion of the headlight switch and lead to no interior lights just as you described.

Regarding the initial observation, Pete and Limey are actually right - while the alternator may not be able to fully satisfy the needs of the system, the battery can more than compensate. This means you're not running at full charging voltage, of course, but systems on cars are not designed to only operate at charging voltage. Regarding cooling capacity, marginal fan output is cubically related to fan power, and the energy dissipated by the radiator is not a constant function of temperature, either. I would expect that the ~2V difference would not impact your actual cooling rate. Without expending the absurd effort of figuring all the flow rates and fan speeds, you should really only concern yourself with two outcomes: if your truck overheats at idle, and if your truck's battery discharges an unhealthy amount for any reasonable length of idle. And even if you're continously short 10 Amps, the battery still won't discharge an appreciable amount in less than an hour. This is something I recommend testing rather than trying to achieve via theory. If you're at all concerned about the alternator output, I've heard it's supposedly fairly easy to install a 136A alternator from late-90s Dodges. You can also swap to a smaller pulley to increase the speed at the expense of alternator lifespan.

Aw hell, that '88? Don't make me pull my wallet out!

I did hours of research when I rebuilt my Corvette engine trying to find out the best oil for the 350 and ended up settling on Amsoil Z-Rod 10w30. A lot of people run Rotella in those, but there was a lot of empirical evidence to suggest that they had inferior wear properties compared to specifically-formulated gasoline oil for flat-tapped engines. The prevailing theory, I believe, was the vastly increased amount of detergents in Rotella compete with the ZDDP and reduce its effectiveness. a lot of people were also saying that Rotella's ZDDP levels have been reduced over time, but I do not think there is any evidence to suggest this. Regardless, both my Corvette and my Cherokee (and soon my Comanche) run Amsoil Z-Rod to great effect. When I'm feeling poor, I use Lucas Hot Rod and Classic 10w30, which is available from Amazon with Prime shipping for way cheaper.

Right, haha, I assume that with enough wear and enough... user input, anything is possible.