scaleless

You mean this adapter plate? https://www.advanceadapters.com/products/716007--nv3550--ax15-crossmember-mount-kit-for-jeep-yj-wranglers/ I wasn't able to find any other. That only fits YJs - they use the same crossmember but a different mount for the BA10 and the AX15. Comanches use a different crossmember AND a different mounting plate. I'm not sure if the bolt holes line up, but the BA10 crossmember is an inch or so higher than the AX15 one and will screw with your driveline angles a bit, especially badly if you have a lift. Another thing regarding the transmission is if it came from a Wrangler, the transfer case mounting holes are clocked ~15° differently than a Comanche for floor clearance and you'll need to redrill the holes or bang out your floor (not recommended lol)

I was under the impression that to activate the bypass valve you needed to open the front bleeder, then press the pedal, then start bleeding the rear brakes. This is because the bypass valve activates when there is an extreme pressure differential between the front and rear lines. Having both open before you press the pedal does not cause a pressure differential. I'm certainly no expert, though, so it would be great if someone else chimed in.

I don't think you need that kit, just a 1994+ slave cylinder and some extra hydraulic line. Should come out to much less than $170! I and others I know here used Centric 13667512 pre-bled master and slave cylinder set when we swapped from automatics, but I think this requires a larger firewall hole than stock 1986 - 1993 comes with so you may need to enlarge it. It is cheaper and nets you a new Master, too, though. You'll also need a new crossmember and I'm fairly certain the AX15 needs a different mounting plate, as well. If you don't have a matching transfer case, you'll need one of those as well - AX15 and BA10 have different input shaft lengths and, in most cases, different spline counts. You can read more at Novak: https://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/np-nvg-input-gears/ You can find a matching transfer case or do what I did since I was rebuilding mine anyways and buy a new input shaft gear from Novak to swap in.

I think it's more likely there's an internal fault in the ignition control module, but we can't be sure if you're not sure that's a good tach. Given it's not working on either the original tach or the new one, I would bet on the ICM. If you know someone with an oscilloscope you can test the output at the diagnostic connector to be sure, but since you tested continuity from the ICM to the tach and it's not shorted to ground, it's definitely either the ICM or the tachs. Good repair shops usually have an oscilloscope lying around, so you can probably ask them to test it for you. Should be a 12v peak PWM signal, I think. Kinda noisy. Lacking that, I would just throw an ICM at it, since they're only like $40.

Yes, that would be the correct tach wiring.

This should help. The illustration is from a 4cyl, but, you know, it's the connectors under the yellow caps on the passenger fender is the important part. The wiring is the same. As Eagle said, you could connect a known working tach to test. Don't forget to ground it to the chassis. This signal comes from C213_C that Ohm mentioned, so you could test from there, too, if you can access it while the vehicle is running.

An entire generation of classics were crushed in the name of saving the environment (read: redistributing taxpayer money to auto manufacturers). And they'll do it again if we let them.

The tach signal comes from the ignition control module, and given that you admittedly had a very dirty repair I would expect you probably burnt out that line. Not sure how it's constructed internally but if you shorted it to either ground or 12v I'm sure it wouldn't be pretty. Given you burnt out a resistor, I think that's likely. I think it's supposed to be a 0-12V PWM signal, and you can test it at pin 1 on diagnostic connector D1, but you probably need an oscilloscope to really check the signal. I'm pretty sure the computer derives the RPM from the CPS and not the ICM, so if the module wasn't driving the speedometer line I don't think that would be reflected by the REM.

The dealer website is just a parking page, the address comes up to another dealer, and the phone number appears to be dead. I'd bet the listing is bunk. If you look harder, though, the company is registered by a "Jamaal Cutno" who has 4 other companies registered, but no sales across any of them. He doesn't have much of a criminal record aside from marijuana possession, but his wife, Jauvanda Cutno, who also happens to share ownership of the company... https://www.publicpolicerecord.com/georgia/atlanta-jail/CUTNO_JAUVANDA/1519956 Has many counts of identity fraud and transaction fraud! So yeah, I think its fake.

Not only easy, but theres no risk of stripping out or distorting the threads! Too easy to make that mistake.

I personally use 3M Strip Calk (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PEZ1L4/) for just about any automotive sealing job. Great stuff.

You can test the switch for continuity or bypass it on the harness side to test as follows. Be careful, though, and use appropriate guage wire for the load if you bypass it! If you've got power at the switch but not at the lights, I'd bet on the switch 99% of the time.

What are these "celsius" you speak of?

The problem with renting out vehicles for overlanding is the kind of people who will rent them; most people who are interested and experienced in overlanding will have a rig of their own that will work, and the potential customers left over are the kind who have too much confidence and not enough skill. It's a similar problem as with rental exotics. But I wish you luck!

And try to get front seats from a 2Dr Cherokee if they're available. They fold down to provide access to the rear storage area behind the seats like original Comanche seats do

I just rebuilt my whole heater box and I used 1" x 3/4" foam strip stacked 2 high (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PXSHJF6/) for the firewall seal. It's very tight and I haven't run it yet but I'm sure it's a good seal. All of the other internal seals I made out of 1/2 x 1/8 foam strips (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PZTQRHL/). Er, I may have also used 3/8 x 1/8 too in some places - I can't recall. Everything else - all the oval seals and such and the foam that sealed the door next to the blower - I cut out of a wide 1/4" strip (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WPWKF8C/)

The stuff is magic, yeah. If you've got an ultrasonic to use it in it works like 20x faster, too!

I have a Milwaukee one with the big chonker battery (the 12Ah one or whatever the biggest one is) and it definitely beats out my gas one. My gas one is crap, though, so I don't know how good of a comparison that is

Not an expert, but I've torn a bunch apart. A constant sound irrespective of the current gear isn't usually something you hear except in transaxle arrangements where the final drive gear has a few chipped teeth. A chipped tooth in another gear would cause a similar vibration only in that gear - if the broken tooth was bouncing around other gear sets however, the results would probably be more catastrophic than a vibration. It's possible the sound is unrelated to the jump, though - burnt or low fluid usually causes noise as well, so you may want to check before you start tearing things up. But that's all if you're sure it's the transmission. I agree with jdog - I think it's much more likely to be elsewhere in the drivetrain. Just as an anecdote, my father took his Tundra offroad a few years back and cracked a u-joint cap on the driveshaft and it caused almost identical symptoms to what you're describing.

Given the dirt and the fact it's missing a gear, I would be willing to bet the transmission may have made it to the shop to be rebuilt, but probably got bagged without any work being done to it. You said it was sitting outside on a pallet - was that before or after it was supposedly rebuilt and bagged? Frankly I couldn't imagine leaving a transmission in any salvageable condition outside uncovered, if it was!

I'm sure they're available in many places, but I was able to easily find them on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FCKHJMJ I haven't thrown mine in yet, but this is what it shows on the tin: So I was planning on using a relay to provide switched power for the driving lights, and then connecting that into the supply line of another relay with the control wire connecting to the turn signals. Normally closed to the white wire for driving lights, and normally open for the amber. Should cleanly switch between running lights and turn signals when they're active, I just worry about how many switches I'll get out of a cheap Bosch-style relay running DC before it burns itself out. I might order a solid state relay instead, considering I wasn't mounting it anywhere I could easily replace it.

Right, but that's why I asked if he was sure, because to my eyes that's definitely the rear of an AX15. Doesn't look like any of the 4 speeds that can be made to work for sure. Like Pete said: I would bet money that's an AX15 with some internal problems.

Are you sure it's not an AX15? That tailcone is definitely an AX15 tailcone. Sorry for the blurry pic - there aren't many 2WD AX15 pics floating around

But that's the best part!

Somebody get this man a cheeseburger!