75sv1

Ugh! I have new respect for the Libby, Compass etc. already. Not sure about the Aztek.

I have 31s on 4.5 lift. Plenty of clearance. Looks a bit small, and I don't like the stuffed tire look. sorry no pics. I haven't regeared yet. I do have 4:10's planned and have the axel and front gears. Does OK with stock tires on the road. I am also going to 16" rims and one of the metric tires that would be about 31.5.

As Rock Frog said. Also, the water pump has a different bolt pattern. I was a hurdle to cross, as I think it spins the other way. The oil filter boss is in the same location. The oil pressure sending unit boss is relocated to the back of the passenger's side of the block. Also, watch out swapping earlier heads on these blocks, as they are not drilled and tapped for the idler pulley that goes there for the WJs belt layout. Might need to check the Wranglers and see if it has that or not. The NV3550 swaps basically direct. You need its clutch slave or hydraulics setup. Advance Adapters used to sell a kit, that used a Modified Toyota Land Cruiser clutch cylinder. I didn't see it listed of late. The transfer case is a bit different, but usable. I think it has a balncing ring or something. I sold a guy a TC from a '93 or such. His mechanic wouldn't use it, so I took it back or paid the cash as I bought some Caynon rims and 31" tires.

I did a search on Car-PartsInc.com. The cross reference to the WJ Grand Cherokee. Short answer : 'No.'. Long answer possibly, I am swapping one in mine. Also, the NV3550 trans that should be what you are looking at. The motor mount bosses are different on each side. I added a spacer on one side. The other I had the motor mount bracket cut and rewelded. I might look into a Brown Dog motor mount latter. The other aspect is the Accesory drive setup. The holes are not drilled and tapped for the XJ/MJ setup. I was going to drill and tap them. I am changing plans and going to try and use the WJ setup. That does leave it without a clutch fan. I am thinking of putting in the Ford Taurus fan swap. I can only think of one other that has done this swap. He cut down the drivers side motor mount boss, and drilled and tapped the holes. So, a lot of work.

Thought I add to this. I had my compressor seize up Saturday. Fortunately it was in the driveway and not on the road. It was giving me signs most of the day. The motor would run, but the belt didn't move. The compressor was locked up. I took of the AC clutch. The bearing was shot. Looked like more than a few ball bearings were missing. I did a search on the net and Ebay. I could only find the AC clutch rebuild kits on Ebay. All the parts stores didn't list them. I bought a bearing off of EBay. Then I saw Auto Zone had the bearing. $22 or so. I couldn't press out the bearing, so I turned it out with my lathe. I pressed in the bearing. When assembled, the coil pack binded on the belt pulley. I turned the end shorter 0.020 or so. I finally got it together. Still, have to assemble back the other stuff. Need to get a new belt.

Not expecting miracles. I'll have to judge for myself, when I make the swap. I did change ball joints last year. So, it won't be one of those bunch of changes and saying just the one made a difference. I will have to change the bottom ball joints to the WJ ones. Just orders the GM TRE setup from RuffStuff.

As suggested I'd check steering gear box play or adjustment. Also, any slop in the track bar. My XJ had a slot for the hole in the track bar bushing. I fixed that. Much better. Then adjusted the gear box, but the seal leaked so replaced it. Much much better. Still, not like a rack and pinion. I will be changing to WJ big brakes and a GM cross over steering. Mine is lifted 4.5. So, the cross over steering is suppose to help with that.

Yes, I have a set up stairs. I might need a bit of work. $50. It is gray. Sorry for the delay. I was looking for a PM. I'll look at it tonight.

Any input on dics on an AMC 20? I have seen swaps, but have to make plates. Also, all the other swaps are with drum inners.

I have an ISUZU Rodeo or Trooper axle at home. It uses an internal drum brake like the Ford 8.8, KJ (?), MB 123. The cables have a regular drum brake end. Not sure if I have time to take dimensions on other stuff. Give me what dimensions are needed and I'll try.

Might look at the ISUZU Trooper or Rodeo, and Honda Pilot rear ends. They are a Dana 44, and some or most have rear disk brakes. I do not know if the fit other D44s. I though some of the GC had a D44, but an aluminum housing.

Basically, the rear one goes to the intake manifold. The front one goes to the air intake box, or some just put a small breather element on it. Not sure of all the tubing etc for the Renix for that. Taking it off or to the air box, would help with 'Blow By' or oil being sucked into the air filter.

I have put a '95 VC on my '89 Comanche. I think there are three styles. The one I used had the 90 degree turn fittings (91-95). The two others had the latter style grommet PVC fittings. I have two at home. One was on a '94. I have only seen a picture of the last style, or its my imagination. Same grommet PVC, but a slant to the VC.

Two MJs at PnP at Producers Lane. Two taillights, Headliner, tailgate other parts. There is a good rear bumper on the 4 cylinder. I pulled some of those parts, but the CC machine was down. I did get the wiring harness from the cab to the taillights, speaker brackets and one good curtsey light. One did have a slider rear window. I already have one. Don't know when I'll make it back up there. Tailights were $22 or so each. They have gone up, since last time I picked some.

I have a set. I'm in Hope.

:popcorn: I think you'll get fat on pop corn. I've been working on this for quite some time. But keep the Indiana economy going. I have been doing a few things on it. Need to get the WJ 4.0L figured out, then axels. Then electronics or interior. Lots to do. If other vehicles behave.

I am in the process or at least tried this. I cut the front and then the rear to match. I plan to take some of the center section to glue on the back as a reinforcement. I am going to try and put in the 98-up sound bar. Yeah the speaker will be right at my ear. I also plan to put in the navigation over head. I'll have to cut it a bit and put in the reinforcing plate or whatever you want to call it.

You also have to keep an eye on shipping. Some parts are OK, other sky high, and cheaper to go local. I do order from them at times. I do try and check online and see what prices are. If close or reasonable, I buy local. Usually, NAPA. I did order Timken bearings from them, and possibly Mevotech ball joints.

I have the window crank knob. SnakeDoc has what I'd call the arm rest. Let us know either way. I don't have tan arm rest.

I looked last night. I have one on the drivers side. PM me your address and I'll ship it. I am putting in late style doors etc. I think I grabbed this at a PnP years ago.

Mine isn't. It has a carb. The newer ones are probably. Kawis are the nicer engine. I think there are two Cub engines. Read around. The upgrade one is suppose to be a lot better. People prefer the Kawi tough

I might have one. Its very light. Not sure if I can check tonight or not.

John Deere has synthetics oils. Mine has a Kawasaki motor. I think some of the Cubs use Kawasaki.

Iron Rock and possibly other make a brace for the WJs that tie together the rails at the track bar. It is suppose to take care of death wobble in them. I do have a cheap $35 steering box brace off of ebay from Dayton OH. in my XJ. Can't comment either way. From posts I've read some of the bracing shifts the stress to another area on the frame. I bought mine to put on a Durango box. I just rebuilt one, I had laying around. It will probably go on the MJ.

There are internal stops in the Durango box, that can be removed. I am rebuilding one. There is a metal 'C' clip, that gets removed and some spacer post on the aluminum end cap that get removed. From reading the various threads, some people lose turning radius others don't. Some gain it back with a longer pitman arm. Removing the stops helps, according to what I've read. Other say upgrading to the WJs power steering pump helps a bunch.